[schraefel]

Our Mandako roller requires a float position on the tractor. We used a 9480 Ford Versatile last year and it worked great. This year we would like to use our older 850 versatile on it but it appears it does not have a float position. Is there a way to add a float? Even if it means getting off the machine and engaging some type of valve or any way to allow it to float. Could remove the cylinders during field operation but this doesn't sound easy to hook back up by one guy for transport. Any ideas?

It is very rough without the float and doesn't contour as nice. Tx

 

[keldifornia]

Ya they work fine without those hydraulics even hooked up,

They r there too level the roller, depending on drawbar height , u want the roller level , beyond that the valves are shut,

Be pretty hard to put the old mechanical ratchet strap models into float hey?

There’s enough play in your drawbar pin on that old versy to contour , horizontally , lmao

 

[Cfarm]

The easiest way to make it float would probably be to splice a valve between the hoses on the roller. Open it to allow float and close for non float.

 

[SWMan]

The easiest way to make it float would probably be to splice a valve between the hoses on the roller. Open it to allow float and close for non float.

I would do this. My float cylinders move around all the time in the field and it's no good if you are missing rocks from poor ground contact. Unless your land is completely flat it will be a benefit.

 

[torriem]

Ours just uses ratchet adjustments on the hitch. My dad never liked that, so he made up some little links that let it float. When put it in transport, the links just flip down, more or less locking the hitch. Seems to work pretty well.

 

[schraefel]

Yes, they definitely need to float. We learned that the hard way. The first while we didn't use it and it was brutal. As soon as you float it smooths right out and does a much nicer job. I will try to connect the hoses and see if it floats but Hydraulic theory says that won't work because the displacement is different in the rod end vs. the piston end and you can't compress a fluid. It might float a little which is all we really need. Someone suggested connecting the hoses to a drain line on the tractor which might work. Will let you know what I learn. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[SK Farmer]

why not just get ratchets in place of the hydraulic cylinders and then with the Versatile you'll be able to disconnect them in field operation. We have the ratchets on our roller and they are easy to connect and disconnect.

 

[schraefel]

Might have to do just that. I've seen them with the ratchet. Thanks

 

[schraefel]

Not sure why they put cylinders on at all. Seems pretty simple to get off to convert to travel/field.

 

[SK Farmer]

Yes I agree that is why we ordered ours with the ratchets.

 

[Cfarm]

Not sure if you’d want to.
But if you connected the hoses together and left the tractor hydraulics in a continuos flow then it would solve the problem of volume as the oil would constantly be maintained at the same pressure by the tractor.
Just set the tractor flow to minimum to make sure it doesn’t put more oil than what can go through the vavlve so it doesn’t do any work on the ram.

 

[DDF]

For anyone familiar with a planter vacuum hydraulic circuit hookup at at tractor, would that work? It’s basically the return hydraulic line has the “ball” in the end of the tip removed. It is kind of like a simple way to create a case drain.

 

[schraefel]

I connected the 2 lines and ran a tee line to the case drain on the tractor. It floats like a dream. It didn't float after only connecting them together. Had to run another line to the drain. SO now I just close the 2 lock valves and the Tee valve and travel. Works great. Found a new use for an old tractor that has no value to anyone but me. Very happy! Stay safe!