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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Curious if anyone has any experience or knowledge about utilizing those used Michelin military tires to replace 10.00 or 11.00 16 inch front tractor tires?

I've known of them for several years, remember seeing them advertised on the back page of the Western Producer by Sturgeon or Kroy Tire out of Manitoba somewhere. Supposedly capable of close to 6000 pound capacity or the equivalent of an 8 ply conventional four rib. Only ones I saw in person were at a sale last spring, they were loose, but were cracked(top layer of rubber) quite heavily on sidewalls and treads from age, and they still brought $100 each so I didn't bite.

Had a f'up plowing snow the other day, took out the side wall of an 11.00 four rib, and a neighbor is in need of a set for one of his tractors too. I also need a set to replace the 16 year old brand new 10.00 16s I stole off my 3020 for the 4020 earlier this fall. Thinking of maybe grabbing a few sets of these Michelins, a couple of 11s and one set of 9 inch. Found an ad on Kijiji, a guy from my old stomping grounds at Stony Plain selling them, so just a couple hours away. Even at $175 ea top end price, thats still cheaper than any decent 8 ply tire.

Ad attached for reference. Thanks in advance for any comments;)
MILITARY TIRES ASSORTED SIZES AND QUANTITY | tires, rims | Edmonton | Kijiji
 

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Alberta I just bought some 1600 x 20 military michelins for a old scraper. They are exactly like you describe. They are a very heavy high spec tire but often have cracks on the face. The two possible problems are will they fit on your tractor rim and will they steer properly because they do not have the typical rib design like a front tractor tire? If you can get them mounted they may outlast you. They often have a lot of ply and a big load rating. I assume they are radials as well. They should work well for a loader tractor with the high weight carrying capacity.
 

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I won't claim to know anything about the construction of those radial Michelin army truck tires but don't they have their trucks equipped with a central inflation system and run low pressures when off road, soft conditions, sand and so forth ? . I'm only guessing but would think the radial tires could give a better footprint to reduce the ground pressure and also ride for a loader tractor. Bias tires have there short comings when it comes to that and three rib tires get overstressed on a loader, four rib definitely help there. Running clearance is an issue on our 4430 with 11.00 x 16 tires as they came original with 10.00 x 16. Its hard to know what a tire shape profile on the side is like until its on the rim and inflated and bolted onto a tractor to actually see. I know if it were me, I'd be eying a tire that still had some blocks to the tire tread left so there was at least some side traction for turning as those ribs on tractor steering tires are there for a reason.
 

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Running 325/85R16 on the front of a 4430 with a loader. Rides way nicer than 11.00-16s. Have the same on a 4440 that only does field work and can run the pressure low enough to give a nice ride too.

Have a set of 9.00R16 on a 3020 with a loader and they work great too. Haven't bought a rib style front tire since finding these probably 12 years ago. They steer fine even in the mud.
 

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Dan, I was wondering if your able to mount the rims with the offset as JD intended with the 4430 ?. When I put 11.00 four rib tires on our 4430 when we put a loader on it, I was able to keep the offset the way it should be but I only have 3/8 of an inch clearance between the tire sidewall and the axle assembly. I am guessing they changed things clearance wise on the 4440 as they came out with 11.00 from the factory and that much better 8 bolt hub, that is the downfall of the 4430 and similar front end hub and axle stubs, not built strong enough.
 

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Well that is certainly interesting, I think our tractor is a 1976 model but can't swear by that and I guess I just assumed all 4430's had the six hub but maybe there was an upgrade near the end of that model or its possible to change the spindle over to the larger 8 bolt. We really haven't used the loader all that much and yet I discovered it was either stretching the hub bolts or pulling on the threads as I had to change out a hub on one side as that was easier then dealing with the thread issues. They only use grade 5 hardware too which has me a bit puzzled. But that's why I was pointed out years ago that the 40 series had the beefy front end more suited for loader use.

By all means take a photo of the tire setup you have so we can see what it looks like.
 

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My uncle uses them on his old 5020's with FEL. I know they've had trouble mounting them but once they're aired up they seem fine. I don't have any direct experience with them but it must be 15 years since he started using them and he is still using them. FWTW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Dan and the others. Two questions Dan, do you run tubes in them or tubeless, and have you any dealings with the guy selling these there in Stony?

Good to hear about the 325 being better for the larger tractors. First set would be going on a 4620 which usually just has the dozer on it all winter and is my sprayer tractor as well. I need something with good sidewalls as it is also an emergency back up loader tractor as well, still has the mounts for a 125 Ezze-on bolted on, even though it hasn't seen that loader in many years. Call me paranoid or whatever you like, when it comes to looking after my cows I like to be prepared for anything, even something like loosing one or more other loader tractors in a fire. I had remembered those tires being advertised years ago as suitable replacements for the 16 inch normally on 2wd loader tractors and good to hear they do work well.

I would suspect they could be a bit of bugger to mount, as the ones I saw did have thick beads, but I would think with a bit of Murphy's slathered on and some patience, shouldn't be an issue. Tire equipment I have:)

As for some of those military/airplane tires being oddball sizes, think that pretty much was mostly with the actual British wheels, I have several wagons and such from the war and have many of those two piece bolted rims, and yes they take weird dimension tires. They certainly last a long time, most of them are 20 ply, but not many holding air anymore. FYI an easy way to replace those, it take half the bolted rim, and weld it inside a 20 inch Dayton, just need to shim them a bit around the edges to center them, and lay down several beads around the edge, have never had an issue with any of them I have done. Make sure you weld the rim positioned for proper gauge, so when you bolt it to the hub, the wheel is running where you want it to.

And as for the six bolt hubs on a 4430, I know mine had them, think it was something the later ones had the 8 bolt. And for keeping the bolts tight, only time I ever had an issue was years ago, run 10-20 military tires on the front of that same 4620, stole the wheels off the Jiffy hydump one spring. Thought the larger tires might make a big difference....actually didn't really seem too a lot. Though they would keep turning better than the smaller ones when climbing bedding packs ect. But you had to herd it down the road and it sat uphill on the front so much it looked silly, never put them on again;)
 

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I got mine from dollar tire in winterburn. Back when they were in business. They're not any worse than a 11.00-16 to mount because they have a really flexible sidewall. They are michelins after all. I'm running them tubeless but I put a good shot of leak sealant in them. I do with all my tubeless tires. Even some tube type it allows me to go tubeless. Had real good luck with this stuff.

PSF® and PSF Plus® « Fuller Bros.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks again Dan, appreciate the info;)

Dollar Tire, now there is a name I had actually forgot about in recent years, sucks to hear they are gone. Would have been ten years ago at least I was last there I suppose. Like with everything, things change and time marches on.

I'll post back when I get the chance to go pick some of these up and see how it all goes.
 

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or its possible to change the spindle over to the larger 8 bolt.
I converted my 4430 to the 8 bolt about 5 yrs ago. A bit of an investment as you obviously have to change everything at the same time (spindle, hub, and rim) I haven't broke a rim, stud, spindle, though since I did it, definitely recommended if the tractor is doing much loader work.
 

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I've never asked at parts in JD if the 4440 spindle would fit in the 4430 axle assembly but this answers that question. I would imagine the cost of those spindles is boarding on insane though. We just don't use the loader extensively enough that it really warrants changing it all over.

I don't know why I had never though of this before and that isn't to say it would even work but I could have tried taking my old hub with ruined threads and installed press in wheel studs from the back side. Mind you its not a flat machined surface on the backside so that could present a problem but installing grade 8 hardware could have helped with my possible bolt stretching situation. 9/16 grade 5 bolts seem marginal and I wonder if its possible to find grade 8 bolts in the same style.
 

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Military tires

The guys that owned and ran dollar tire are the same guys that are selling the tires out of Stony but the yard is actually close to where dollar tire used to be in Winterburn. Father & son deal. Last fall I bought a few of the 325/85r16's for my bale processor because I was sick of buying new tires for it ever couple months. I run the 11 x 16 on my old ford farm truck that have been retreaded to a commercial winter deep tread and they will probably out last the truck. I also run the 9 x 16 XZL on my 04 dually and get good mileage out of the retreads on the rear but sometimes a challenge to balance.

FWIW Mark
 

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A lot of truckers use antifreeze or golf balls to balance tires. In the States they have baggie of sand or liquid they put in tires when mounting. As well a combine cylinder with filler plates will hold golf balls
 

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I've never asked at parts in JD if the 4440 spindle would fit in the 4430 axle assembly but this answers that question. I would imagine the cost of those spindles is boarding on insane though. We just don't use the loader extensively enough that it really warrants changing it all over.

I don't know why I had never though of this before and that isn't to say it would even work but I could have tried taking my old hub with ruined threads and installed press in wheel studs from the back side. Mind you its not a flat machined surface on the backside so that could present a problem but installing grade 8 hardware could have helped with my possible bolt stretching situation. 9/16 grade 5 bolts seem marginal and I wonder if its possible to find grade 8 bolts in the same style.

Installing helicoils in the poor thread holes is a good option. In most cases the stainless steel insert can stand more force than a fine thread in cast iron. The kits are fairly economical if you are doing more than one hole.

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Haystack, I certainly entertained the idea at the time of installing Helicoils had it not been for damage beyond just the threads. I had a piece of the cast flange fail even though the wheel never parted company with the tractor thankfully, I just caught it in time !. So in that case it was a no brainer, on went a new hub with new bearings. Now I could take the existing hubs and drill them out and install Helicoils but I can't quite push myself to take a perfectly good hub and start drilling them out. I also wish they made an insert that was long enough so that two heli's in each hole were not required. But if that was done, your very right that it would be stronger then it is now. I still would want grade 8 wheel bolts and perhaps someone on here has an answer on a supplier that has better grade bolts with the same degree of taper head.
 
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