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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have series II MRB on my 8810 air seeder and am having troubles with them building up with mud and stop turning. We have heavy clay soil that sticks bad when its wet, and it is #[email protected]*% wet this year, just got started today! They work great when its dry but we just keep getting wet springs here. They all have new disks, and scrapers and I've tried all the settings for the tension on the scrapers. I would love some advice, Im out of ideas. Does anyone use the mid row shanks? how do you like them? Could i switch to them without to much trouble? I have 3 inch packers so would the shanks leave it rough? Any advice would be appreciated thanks.
 

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If it's that wet you could drop them off and broadcast with the air-kit and let the seeding openers incorporate it???

It would save a lot of weight and draft!
 

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I have series II MRB on my 8810 air seeder and am having troubles with them building up with mud and stop turning. We have heavy clay soil that sticks bad when its wet, and it is #[email protected]*% wet this year, just got started today! They work great when its dry but we just keep getting wet springs here. They all have new disks, and scrapers and I've tried all the settings for the tension on the scrapers. I would love some advice, Im out of ideas. Does anyone use the mid row shanks? how do you like them? Could i switch to them without to much trouble? I have 3 inch packers so would the shanks leave it rough? Any advice would be appreciated thanks.
we had troubles on a half section this year . the ground had **** load of white wheat straw left on it from last year (sadash?] no mater what the tention on the scraper/opener was it would pklug up with straw and mud. ended up lifting them almost all the way up out of the ground . it seemed like a lot of the n was basically being broadcast . like sw man says if its that wet broadcasting it isn't a bad option . I will know how are canola turn out in time . I assume you are blowing 46 down the mid rows . it is very mobile in the soil. we have mid row threes that are very easy to adjust . the 1 inch verticals that we have as an opener seem to cover a lot of the 46 that is on the surface
 

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Where is it building up with mud? On the scraper? Plugging with straw too or not so much? Have you tried running them deeper with less tension? If pluging with straw, need to increase tensions and put deeper, at least that's what I had to do with mine, though series 3. Some guys brought them out, but I had more trouble that way. Mud not so much problem, but straw was ours. Turning up tension to max, out down far as they would go, and drive slower all helped.
 

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Where is it building up with mud? On the scraper? Plugging with straw too or not so much? Have you tried running them deeper with less tension? If pluging with straw, need to increase tensions and put deeper, at least that's what I had to do with mine, though series 3. Some guys brought them out, but I had more trouble that way. Mud not so much problem, but straw was ours. Turning up tension to max, out down far as they would go, and drive slower all helped.
do you remember how many shims you have on the mid rows
 

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Where is it building up with mud? On the scraper? Plugging with straw too or not so much? Have you tried running them deeper with less tension? If pluging with straw, need to increase tensions and put deeper, at least that's what I had to do with mine, though series 3. Some guys brought them out, but I had more trouble that way. Mud not so much problem, but straw was ours. Turning up tension to max, out down far as they would go, and drive slower all helped.
was thinking maby we should have ramed them down in the ground so the scraper was past the straw...... that would have been DeeP
 

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I was running openers shanks on hole 4 or 5. With QDA 3320 I had 4 shims in, about 1/2" or bit less deep (seeding canola on wheat or oat straw). Banders were only 5000 acres old so still pretty newish. Started with 4 shims in which was about 3/4" to 1" below seed. That was working where straw was good. In softwhite stubble and oat stubble ended up with 2 shims in most of them, some had 1 or none if they were a big problem. For some reason I couldn't figure out, only a couple I had problems with. Turning up tension to max and dropping them down solved the problems. Some the band might be 2" deep now but I think that is OK still. Didn't seem to affect seeding job as we slowed down to 4.4 mph.

I had one 60 acre patch of 180 bpa oat stubble that we could not do when damp. Ended up locking banders up for last half of field and basically broadcast ahead of openers. That is before I go to the next field that was drier and ended up figuring more out that day.
 

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On a related topic, I noticed an excessive amount of soil cascading into a new 3710 after running it in borderline wet conditions for a few hours. All of the banders behind the front wheels were losing their shims because of mud build in the clevis mount for the cylinders when the banders were lifted.



As a prevention for the ones behind the wheels, I took the lower pin out of the cylinder and turned the shaft end 180 degrees. The shims now have to be installed from the back side, but is easy enough if the disc is not fully raised. I only tried it on one as an experiment, because the verdict is still out if the mud binding will bend the cylinder shaft.

 

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From my now third season with MRB II on a 2007 5710, I find them to be a very troublesome way to apply N. In certain circumstances, they're nothing but trouble and take all the fun (with the help of NH3) out of seeding. Nothing like a simple C shank with countless openers out there to choose from to accomplish what needs to be accomplished. If I had my own farm, BG wouldn't be able to pay me enough to run their banders. But BG sells more fancy steel and doesn't like it if research shows issues with their glorified products.
But as for somewhat solutions, I dropped them down so the scrapers are in the dirt. This was to allow for the disks being too warn down. Now with new ones on they could be raised up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nhs

If it's that wet you could drop them off and broadcast with the air-kit and let the seeding openers incorporate it???

It would save a lot of weight and draft!
I cant do that, I'm putting nh3 and sulfur down the banders and using 3/4 inch knives. Was wondering about going deeper too. Was working better today in barley stubble. The worst thing with them is it has the bolts to adjust the depth, so its not just a two minute job to lower them to see if it works. Starting to dry up a little, so maybe wont have to worry about them anymore.
 

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I cant do that, I'm putting nh3 and sulfur down the banders and using 3/4 inch knives.
Yeah broadcasting NH3 wouldn't work too good at all.:eek:
 
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