[Boris norris]

After a lengthy sit of 12 months, the main clutch which engages the combine has decided to not disengaged although it was not like that when parked.
All the special tools like hammers and chisels were used but will not release, even when the hydraulic line is cracked.

My point is, why would it do it with the internal spring designed to keep it disengaged and cannot be wedged apart without doing damage?
Maybe a stuck hyd cylinder?
Moisture?

 

[tbk]

Just

After a lengthy sit of 12 months, the main clutch which engages the combine has decided to not disengaged although it was not like that when parked.
All the special tools like hammers and chisels were used but will not release, even when the hydraulic line is cracked.

My point is, why would it do it with the internal spring designed to keep it disengaged and cannot be wedged apart without doing damage?
Maybe a stuck hyd cylinder?
Hydro traction drive, right? All the other clutches engage electrically through a Warne brush holder? I thought the feeder house, separator and bin unload used those and a magnetic clutch and nothing hydraulic. About all I can think is the clutch surfaces are rusted in place.

That being the case, when you start the engine, does the separator want to run? Can you operate the other clutches?

 

[tbk]

Just

The hydraulic line you disconnected will allow you to spread those sheaves apart. You're going to want to take apart the other set of sheaves that are torque sensing. Right now, those sheaves are being held tight together on the belt by a huge spring and set of camms in a "can" in the center of the outside sheave.

I think you need to unbolt that can from the torque sensing sheaves, then they will separate. Alternatively, you may be able to drive a 2"×4" wedge between the sheaves to open them sufficiently to get the belt off. Too, I've used a tanker pry bar to help get them open. Regardless, you're going to want to take that spring and camm apart, thoroughly clean and lubricate it and examine it for damage.

Hope this helps.

 

[Boris norris]

Well my friend you thought wrong. The separator is driven through a electric over hydraulic clutch without doubt. Of course the separator runs when engine is started as it is engaged.

Let's be clear on this. It's only that clutch and nothing else.
Cheers

The hydraulic line you disconnected will allow you to spread those sheaves apart. You're going to want to take apart the other set of sheaves that are torque sensing. Right now, those sheaves are being held tight together on the belt by a huge spring and set of camms in a "can" in the center of the outside sheave.

I think you need to unbolt that can from the torque sensing sheaves, then they will separate. Alternatively, you may be able to drive a 2"×4" wedge between the sheaves to open them sufficiently to get the belt off. Too, I've used a tanker pry bar to help get them open. Regardless, you're going to want to take that spring and camm apart, thoroughly clean and lubricate it and examine it for damage.

Hope this helps.

The hydraulic line you disconnected will allow you to spread those sheaves apart.

The rotor drive hydraulic line is separate to the separator HYD. Line. Nothing to do with it. Bern done at the beginning.

You're going to want to take apart the other set of sheaves that are torque sensing. Right now, those sheaves are being held tight together on the belt by a huge spring and set of camms in a "can" in the center of the outside sheave.

The variable speed on the rotor is not the problem.

You don't seem to grasp the part I'm mentioning.
It's the hyd clutch which drives the WHOLE separator, not just the rotor sheaves.

Thanks for your help but it's not applicable to the part concerned. Cheers.

 

[stevemcil]

Probably can't see if it has any clearance in the plates. If it hasen't rusted together it would have to about be seized brgs?

 

[The Gleaner fan]

It may be the bearing is seized that requires greasing between the two shafts every ten hours. If plates are loose on pins then bearing is seized.

 

[gmguy]

I assume the line was removed and you just have the slight drool of oil, nothing pressurized?

If pressurized, damaged valve letting oil by, if not, then probably rust on the plates causing it to grab. may not be the worst idea to power wash it, maybe mice peed on it.

Make sure and grease the fitting. If you havent been, bearing could have welded itself to the shaft.