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N6/N7 Swivel Elbow for Unloading Grain:

I have worn swivel elbows with lost steel ball bearings. Can the swivel elbows be rebuilt, such as; building up worm areas of the swivel metal rings with welding; inserting new steel ball bearings; drilling holes and inserting grease Zirks; reassembling the elbow; then attaching the elbow and the auger discharge tube to the complete rebuilding the Auger Unloading System? An on-farm rebuild and repair of the swivel elbows may be cost effective as new swivel elbows may be available and costly.

N6/N7 Unloading Grain & height of Discharge into Grain Trucks:

The standard N6 and N7 grain dischartge tubes tend to be low for unloading grain into grain trucks. Extended tubes seem to place more strain on the swivel elbow and unloading system. Comments are welcome regarding ways of effectively increasing the height of grain discharge to accomodate higher grain trucks, and reduce the risk of discharge augers being damaged by striking trucks during unloading grain.
 

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71170626 is the inner race - hard to find # - but is pricy. Unloader with zerks is 71373910 even pricier. Choices are replace inner race, clean outer race - do not weld unless you have a way to machine smooth groove back - and replace your balls. About 127 to129 of them -# 70917580. There is a plug welded in the inner race to remove ones balls. There is an after market unloader without balls and instead uses a slip ring - some love it some say it doesn't work well - am71373910 thru Abaline Machinery and others. As to unloading height, install long spout 71376805. Longer unloader kits are available thru Abaline as well. We always weld a stop fabricated from a piece of 2X4" x 1/4" and weld in place to stop the swivel from it oem position by about 2" +or - . This raises the unloading height by about a foot again + or - a tad. Mankind has had a struggle in his lifetime facing the problem of balls that get rusty and stop working and not letting the auger swing out properly. Hope your issue has a successful conclusion.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
N6/N7 Gleaner Swivel Elbows Rebuild

71170626 is the inner race - hard to find # - but is pricy. Unloader with zerks is 71373910 even pricier. Choices are replace inner race, clean outer race - do not weld unless you have a way to machine smooth groove back - and replace your balls. About 127 to129 of them -# 70917580. There is a plug welded in the inner race to remove ones balls. There is an after market unloader without balls and instead uses a slip ring - some love it some say it doesn't work well - am71373910 thru Abaline Machinery and others. As to unloading height, install long spout 71376805. Longer unloader kits are available thru Abaline as well. We always weld a stop fabricated from a piece of 2X4" x 1/4" and weld in place to stop the swivel from it oem position by about 2" +or - . This raises the unloading height by about a foot again + or - a tad. Mankind has had a struggle in his lifetime facing the problem of balls that get rusty and stop working and not letting the auger swing out properly. Hope your issue has a successful conclusion.
Hi tbran: Thank you for your response. You mention replacing the inner race. I assume the inner race is the inner ring, and that the steel balls are between the inner and outer races to facilitate rotation. You mention replacing the inne race. Is the inner race available as a part with a part number; or is it only the complete swivel elbow that comes with a part number? For clarification, is the piece of 2"x4"x1/4" metal stop that you weld in place, welded so that the swivel stops swivelling out 2" (or 4") before the normal stop position? [Lang may yer lum reek, and your Gleaners run smoothly] Jsloan
 

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Hi tbran: Thank you for your response. You mention replacing the inner race. I assume the inner race is the inner ring, and that the steel balls are between the inner and outer races to facilitate rotation. You mention replacing the inne race. Is the inner race available as a part with a part number; or is it only the complete swivel elbow that comes with a part number? For clarification, is the piece of 2"x4"x1/4" metal stop that you weld in place, welded so that the swivel stops swivelling out 2" (or 4") before the normal stop position? [Lang may yer lum reek, and your Gleaners run smoothly] Jsloan
Here's my bit. N6. swivel never gives much trouble it you keep it away from trees. I once tried extending it but went back to original length. It had nothing to do with the mechanics driving it, and the extra height was good but the little hyd. ram could not get it up. It struggled big time. If ther is a fatter ram to take the place it might work better. The extra length was great for getting into semis and tall field bins.
 

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71170626 is the inner race or ball track - it has studs welded to it. AND BOODLES - try putting a tablet or two of Viagra in the hyd reservoir tank - might help.
 
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