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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Scenario. New rotor bars and everything appears to function correctly. Would a worn cage(in general) have any affect on it capacity through the rotor. Picking up 30 feet windrows of barley taken off at 6 inch above ground. Going about 60 bushels per acre. A lot of grunting. Any suggestions?
 

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Generally, a seasoned/worn cage takes LESS HP than a brand new cage with sharp edged square holes. You say new rotor (cylinder?) bars. What about the helical/spiral bars bolted to the inside of the cage??????? they are what conveys the straw thru the processor and must have a sharp edge or the HP requirements will soar.
 

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Helical would be the first place I looked. Like drallis said they need to be sharp. When I ran a n series I had them double stacked on threshing side but I've never done barley so not sure how that would work. My guess is improving flow will help with any crop as long as loses don't get bad. Also make sure you have the green stem kit in that lines up four helical from the threshing side to the separator side. Without these "line up" helicals you will have several inches of dead space in the cage where material will bunch up till more material pushes it on over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Half the time... ;).
I am guessing the moisture in our crops at harvest would have an N6 limited to 20 feet.. And that would be pushing the horses.. Say in 75 bushel wheat..
As I said this is 30 feet windrows and is definately cured. Dont forget it has been cut off a ground level nearly so a lot of material to take in. Been down for a month. I am leaning towards those helical bars mentioned. Where would I buy a set of them?
 

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I got my kit of NDDAN. Maybe Neils may have something but you need to know what setup you are buying. If you don't want them for this harvest I'd get a set of Dan or I'm sure there are other suppliers of the steep pitch kit in the US which I'm sure other members will tell you about. Well worth the money
 

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Neil's dubbo probably. If not new they would have plenty of second hand which you could probably refurbish.

you could get new ones for say a R62/72 and cut them to suit your cage if N6 is different. Not familiar with the N but I reckon they are the same.
 

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Like Dr Allis says you need a sharp edge on the helicals to keep a grip on the MOG. Double stacking flat helical bars on the thresher end helps keep the material moving. Replacing with channel gives you more griping area to keep that MOG moving through the cage.
The P1 rotor bars are a rub style bar and the teeth are not very deep thus they lose the grip easily on the MOG especially with flat helical bars.
I was having problems with green stem beans with my Hyperized P1 rotor and channel helicals. I went with a Hyperized P3 rotor with wide spaced bars and would never go back.
Took a little work get it centered but well worth the effort.
 
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