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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a 9610 last year and was disappointed with it. It will only cut about 12 acres per hour in 40 bu. dryland wheat. Haven't looked inside yet but plan on getting more out of it this year but not sure where to start and what mods work and which ones don't. I know any one item wont do the trick. It will be a combination of several. I am running with a 936D draper but it seems if I push it hard the machine looses grain over the sieves and not the walkers like everyone claims they should. Any info would be great. It looks like we may have a bin buster this year so I need to get it ready. thanks
 

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We need more details. You don't need to mod your combine, you need to fix it. That is about half capacity.

For a wag, are your cleaning fans intact? My old 9600 blew up one.
 

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what settings did you run the cleaning shoe at? what settings did you run the cylinder at?

what condition is your concave in and how about your cylinder bars?

let us know more to help like bent said.

jd
 

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Discussion Starter #4
According to my JD dealer it had only one season on the bars and concaves. Since it got delivered just before cutting I didn't get inside it too much. I took their word on it. They claimed to have went through the machine and put about 5 grand in it.What I could see from the bottom they looked good. I rechecked the settings on the concave thinking they were screwed up but they were good. I am running the cylinder at about 700 so as not to crack the wheat. the bottom sieve I have about a eighth inch opening. If I go more the sample is too dirty. Cant recall on the top one I would have to go and look at it again. the fan looks fine. The 7700 that I upgraded from was pretty much cut and dried what you could do with that. I am going to start pulling this one apart but was wondering if the new style cylinders, concaves etc. are much of an improvement. I thought about trading right away for a JD rotary. I leased one once and was very impressed with it. Wish I would have bit the bullet and bought one instead of this one. But I have now. Now I have to live with it .
 

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Don't give up. Something is FUBAR with your machine, you just have to find it.

One season on bars and concave doesn't mean a thing. If the operator runs to much returns, the cylinder bars can be ruined in one season.

Edit your profile to give us a clue where you are located.
 

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First message posted on very interesting forum.Experience goes back long way but must admit have no experience since 1460 days. Neverless you said 1/8 sive opening .Seems awful close to me.Are you sure fan speed high enough. With only 1/8 sive opening you are blocking air ..If you can do this take a hat full of clean grain an put it on bottom sieve it should fall right through -if it doesnt nudge sieve small amount open.You might have top sieve to far open an are getting a overload of too dirty material on clean sive.Old timer also told me if you put hand full of grain in fan housing fan speed is correct when as you increase fan speed it will blow grain out of fan housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I farm in north central Montana.
Maybe I am not getting the right combination on this machine, I'm just not sure. but if I open the bottom sieve any more the sample gets dirty and if I turn up the air any more I have problems blowing it over.
If I find the concaves and bars worn out when I go into this machine do the aftermarket cylinders and beaters and such do much improvement on these machines.Wish I had a book that would go down the list and tell me what areas to look at and what could be done with them.
I am also planning on doing something with the chopper since the factory one wont spread the width of the platform. And with the no-till it needs to be spread good so I don't have to harrow.
 

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I agree, something is very wrong with your machine. The shoe on a 9610 has tons of capacity, even more than a 9750 due to more separating area. Someone with deere walker experience needs to look closely at it.

The subject of walker upgrades has been discussed quite a bit on some other threads. I would recommend a hi-inertia cylinder, either Sunnybrook or PF parts, beater speed up kit. Sunny and PF also have some agressive beaters for tough threshing.

For a better straw chopper a Redekop MAV 310 extra fine cut unit is the best performance you can get for a Deere walker. There are others like TSR for a bit less money, but you get what you pay for.

Try a power chip for more power and better fuel economy.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The Rededop chopper is one I have been looking at. It looks impressive. I was told about the speed up kit by another guy that did it on an old 9600 but I thought that problem was probably taken care of on the 9610. I guess I was wrong. As far as power I didn't have a problem with that but maybe that was because I wasnt able to get full capacity out of it.
 

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Your bottom sieve needs to be more like quarter inch, open the precleaner a bit too, despite what the book says you need it open enough to take in grain but not dirty the sample. This may sound wrong too but start with your air at 1100 and see what happens. What is the bushel weight of the wheat your cutting? Where is your concave set at. 700 rpm sounds too slow. Try opening the concave and speeding up the cylinder, just dont grind the straw. If your not loosing any over the walkers than your overthreshing.
I usually go til I find a bit over the walkers then tighten up a bit or speed up the cylinder a bit, depending on moisture, temperature, etc.
Another crazy thing ive found, My walkers are set totally different than yours mainly because of yield, but I found that if you back out of it too much too afraid of loosing it over the sieves you will loose more blowing it out than if you push it and load the shoe properly,,,, Yes this sounds wrong but in my case it works. We cut heavy wheat usually 120+ bu and the machines work great when cutting full passes and pushing them but as soon as you catch up a strip somewhere or a border, the loss monitor pegs out, we have to set them with lots of air and screen gap to catch the crop so its too much for lighter crops. Make one adjustment at a time as your going through the field and see what the monitor does, get the loss where you think it looks good and then check behind the machine. Are you also sure that your not loosing it before the back of the machine, like belly auger pan, feed plate, feeder house seal, or just threshing in the header, really dry crop? These things can drive you nuts thinking its coming over the shoe.
Make sure when the head is in the right cut height you check the feeder house seal is actually contacting the feed plate, sometimes they touch when the head is all the way up which is where it usually is when someone is underneath, but when lowered to cut the crop you get a gap and lots of loss right in front.
Crawl around under the machine once your stop it in the middle of the field.
ANother trick is while harvesting normal speed have a buddy walk aside the mahcine hold a shovel under the rooster tail coming off the shoe to see if you can catch seed if not, your not blowing it out, next check with the shover the trickle off the back of the tailings screen that usually drops chaff before the axle to see if theres grain there.
Did I mention I hate choppers, cant diagnose the machine if you cant tell what the dang straw looks like out the back.
ALso are your air fan screens plugging, do your losses go up the longer you run. Mine used to build up since we never shut down, always dumping in a cart, So I removed all the screens and now no problems.
 

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Do not mod your combine until you get it working properly and you can set it properly. It is a pretty good machine as delivered from deere.

You can't set a combine from the operators seat. You have to get dirty. You have to know what the straw in the walkers looks like before it goes into the chopper. You have to know what the returns look like.

Start with the middle of JD's suggestions. Then close the cylinder until you thresh all the grain from the head (open it if you don't find any unthreshed grain to start with). Then slow down the cylinder until you quit breaking grain.

If you are throwing it out the back, open the top sieve. If your returns have to much grain in them, open the bottom sieve. If your returns have to much chaff in them, turn up the air. Get the sieves close and increase fan speed until you throw grain out over the sieve, then turn the fan down 40 rpm. Every time you shut down the machine, check the condition of the tailings to know what your machine is doing.

Adjust again every time the conditions change. Repeat until finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The test weight usually runs about 60 to 62 #'s. I was always told by my dad to run the cylinder about 900 but we always seemed to have alot of cracked wheat so I slowed it down and tightened the cylinder and had better luck. I found that I had the 100% beater pulleys on the machine. Is that sufficient or should it be higher? I have done a full load shut down several times to see what conditions are like and this is when I have found the grain laying on the chaff spreaders and have not found any leaks anywhere under the machine even if I let it sit in one spot and clean out. When it throws over the sieve the grain is laying in two rows several feet each side of the machine where the chaff spreaders throw it.I was looking at my bottom sieve the other day and it looks like I had that shut down almost all the way which is too tight. I have never opened the pre cleaner but will be sure to try that when I get started this year.Not sure what my air was at I would have to get it fired up again and check it. Going to pull the combine out tomorrow and start checking it out. Thanks
 

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Ive found that larger concave spacing with higher cylinder rpms works well if you have a heavy crop, goes with the idea of crop against crop threshing rather than total mechanical using less bar and concave.
If your just starting in the season dont expect to get the machine working perfect with no loss the first few hours, everything needs to get shined up a bit to feed properly, if you get slugs and no even crop flow you have surges of overthreshed grain across the shoe.
Every field is different too. I usually make adjustments through the day, tighten things up a bit in mornings after it warms up open up or slow down cylinder to get the straw looking good.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the info guys. So far what I have checked on the cylinder and concaves it looks like the bars are good. Hardly any ware on them when I put a staight edge on them. I am going to try and get in to check the concaves with a straight edge tommorrow. I think my biggest problem is my adjustments. I just need to learn how to set this machine. Not going to worry about aftermarket upgrades unless I find things wore out.
 
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