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Discussion Starter #1
This is the first time we've ever replaced a Concave in a conventional combine, and I'm having some trouble figuring out how to get the darn thing out! Feeder house is off, rasp bars are out except for one so its opened up real well. It looks like there is a rod that runs the full length of the concave in the front. Does that rod have to come out? It looks like you'd have to remove one of the drive tires to do it so I hope theres a trick. Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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No, the rod has to comes out with the concave. Yes, there is a trick so you don't have to take the tires off. Remove the adjustable rings that hold the adjusters on both sides of the concave. Then remove the adjusters from each side. The inner adjusters have a boss that protrudes into the concave. The bar is machined hex on each end, and the adjusters fit onto the bar.

I found it easiest to cut a piece of 3/4 plywood the width of the concave and place it on top of the augers. Wire it into place so it doesn't slip. This gives you some place to set the concave. Be careful, the concave will want to slip out. I then use a forklift and slide the concave onto the forks. I have also used forks on a tractor loader bucket.

IIRC, the weight is about 270 lbs.

You did unbolt the beater grate, didn't you?

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did unbolt the I bolts that hold the concave to the beater grate. I removed part of the ladder side adjuster, I removed the adjuster I bolt and the inner part of the adjuster is loose but how do you get the outer part of the adjuster off. Also I did a search on the internet for concave removal and came up with nothing JD surely has a instruction sheet for this don't they?
 

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Try going to your local Deere Dealer.

When we needed to replace a part on the Vari Speed Drum on our CTS II we went to the Local Centracks (deere dealer, you probably have somthing different) and they gave us a map of what to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've talked with the local deere dealer a couple times, they actually told us that we would have to take the ladder side driver tire off. I guess I'll call a different dealer on Monday.
 

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Just going from bad memory here. The ladder side outer ring is just held on by the carrage bolt and eye bolt for level adjustment. Remove them, and the outer ring should come off. There is a bolt that holds the inner adjuster to the shaft. Depending on hours, there may be a groove worn on the inner boss where it pivots in the concave, or it may be stuck on the adjuster shaft.

The other side is much the same, but you must remove the linkage for the concave adjustment motor before getting to the adjuster rings.
 

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Ive dont several of these swaps, you do not need to remove the tires, infact you didnt need to removet he rasp bars either. Plywood on the augers is a must. The front shaft through the front of the concave is a hex with a bolt on one side and sometimes a stud bolt on the other. Dont remove the outer cam rings just the inner cams with a prybar. once the bolt and stud bolt is removed from the hex shaft and the rear bolts are removed, tie it to the cylinder and roll it right out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok I think I follow, I removed a 15mm nut off a stud bolt that sticks out of the cam. It looks as though there is another nut way in there. The stud has two flat spots on it, is this what you remove? I already took the adjuster apart with the Ibolt and the carriage bolt. As far as the rasp bars go they were in BAD need of replacement.
 

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greengiant, when I replaced mine this spring I used a St. John Welding rebuilt unit. They rebuild with hard facing rod for longer life. Shipping may be an issue for you. But there should be no question whether there is enough belly in the middle to replace the concave again, as there shouldn't be any belly.
 

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Make sure you take a good look at the front of the concave, the heavy piece that bolts to the concave and holds the wires in (I don't know what it's called exactly). Lay a straight edge across it to check to see how much "smile" it has. We replaced ours when we replaced the concaves. Over time, the crop wears the middle of the concave and this piece out. I was told that replacing this will aid in a smoother transition through the concave, spreading the crop out into a flatter mat, and taking advantage of a fuller width of the concave/bars. This piece was ordered separate from the concave.
Lowen makes just as good, (if not better) replacement concaves as deere at close to half the price. Lowen concaves are heavier than deere. Deere parts guy told me that deere concaves use higher quality steel. I don't believe him.
Replacing rasp bars and the concave/nose piece made a "night and day" difference for us. Before, I never would have believed how much. Rasp bars are just part of the equation! We replacesd a set prior to when we replaced concaves. We replaced the concaves at 2200 sep hours (not a moment too soon).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Bin, I don't think I need a straight edge, mine is smiling from ear to ear
Along with the concave.

Brick, I don't think any of the "staff" members know anything anymore. JD must be running incentives to hire parts people from the getto because they wouldn't know what a combine was if it ran over them. It getting rather frustrating in our area.
 

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Quote:I've talked with the local deere dealer a couple times, they actually told us that we would have to take the ladder side driver tire off. I guess I'll call a different dealer on Monday.

Also depends on the Staff member, somtimes they really don't know what there doing XD
 

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Man do I feel for you. We did ours 2 years ago. BTW in my opinion the worst part is putting it back in. I've read what all the guys have said on here about it in the past but ours was still a major b***h. We used a cherry picker and a few chains and some ratchet straps to wiggle it out. The plywood on the augers is a good idea. We used boards and we managed to ding up a few augers with all our beating and prying. We took the tire off as that really wasn't too bad of a job with 2 stout guys on hand. We took the cherry picker and sort of curled the concave out. To put it back in I left 2 guys at the shop and they worked about 6 hours and never even got close. The next day I got down inside the combine and guided it up in with another guy on the outside. Took us about 3 hours to get it bolted back. There's one guy on here who did his by himself and he definitely gets an A+ for effort on that. Have a good one. BH
 

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Cherry picker is a good choice if you dont have a fork lift. CSFI you do need to remove the other stud that has the flats on it leaving the bare hex shaft that will look the same on both ends making it narrower than the seperator body then it will come out. The front bar that binbuster was refering to is called the front concave ANGLE, and abilene machine makes this part for half what deere parts counter wants and it also made thicker than OEM. I think cost from abilene is about 300 bucks. Loewan makes good concaves with thicker bars than deere, probably the same material as deere as far as durability. Im going with ST. Johns hardfaced concaves in two of my walkers this year and sunny boronized bars.
Ive used heavy motorcycle straps around the cylinder and attached to the concave to remove it as well as a single rope in the middle or even a light chain that will pass between the return auger trough and cylinder top. The key is once you get the concave to roll out high enough to where it almost hits the top of the opening into the cylider area to get it to unhook from the last rasp bar. Same going together you gotto start with the front rolled up quite high, higher than safe for any human to get it started under the cylinder, try not to bend the stone trap door rod to in the process.
The cherry picker will work well because it will reach up under the cab to help in rolling up the concave beyond center. GOod luck.
Like I tell my guys,, if it were easy everybody would be doin it.....
 

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I used our little "hand crank" forklift to roll the concave out. Any forklift will do if it will clear the underside of the cab. Pull a couple of wires out of the concave so the forks will slide in further after you roll it up and out. Pulling it out is a piece of cake, did it myself. Installing it back in is another story. I chained the rear of the concave to one of the cylinder bars and used it to roll the concave back into place. You are going to need some help with this, at least 3 people. To even get close to starting the rear bolts you have to make sure that darn beater grate is out of the way! We cut a couple of blocks of wood to prop it up. But as I recall we had to really cuss to get the concave past the grate when it was all the way raised up. It works like a chinese finger. If I were to do it again, I would crawl on top of the walkers and take those two bolts out and pull it rearward out of the way. This is where the extra help and a good set of flashlights comes in handy. Make sure you get the directions on how to level the concave from deere. Have fun!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK...........WHEW! I got the concave out (without removing the tire, thanks guys!) But now that I've seen what it takes to get it out I'm really not looking forward to putting it back in.
I'm sure I'll be back with "how do you get this )@(&#%_)(@#&%_!% thing back in!"
 

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We made a tool to install concaves and believe it or not i have removed and installed a concave in 2 hours by my self-------this is strictly removing and installing concave not feeder house removal or anything else which basic consists of attaching concave on end of forks with a miniature boom to get under cab and a winch to curl up concave around cylinder as forklift moves forward and if eye bolts are loosed then you don t need height exact------but second best method is to use plywood like mentioned than use a long bar with a small chain on end of bar which should be adjustable and hook on other end and lay over cylinder shaft ( filler plates must be out) and hook to concave wires and pull down on bar which will lift concave and get second man to to push or pull concave into place and install bolts-----------with rasp bars removed beater grate can also be lifted on to concave if set on walkers prior to installing concave
 
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