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New Holland Walker Maintenance/Repair Thread
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Fuel tank interference with side shield door
ON TX models check the fuel tank where the big side shield cover comes close to it at the top right
corner of the tank. I noticed on mine when cleaning it up after harvest that it had rubbed half way
through the plastic tank. I will either adjust the rear hinge to move the whole door forward or
grind a bit of metal off the door stiffener that is contacting the tank.
ON TX models check the fuel tank where the big side shield cover comes close to it at the top right
corner of the tank. I noticed on mine when cleaning it up after harvest that it had rubbed half way
through the plastic tank. I will either adjust the rear hinge to move the whole door forward or
grind a bit of metal off the door stiffener that is contacting the tank.
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444 Posts
Sticky Hydrostat lever
Our TX68 hydrostat lever has been getting a bit sticky over the past couple years. When you want to move it a very slight amount forward
it would grab and then release which causes it to move farther than I
wanted it to go. Then when pulling it back to the desired spot it would do the same thing when backing it off.
There is a large leather type washer on the driver seat side of the handle pivot down inside the armrest. I soaked this washer down with
wd 40, accessing it through the ashtray. It took quite a lot of lube to get it to operate smoothly. After finishing there is some wd 40 collected in the bottom of the compartment that probably should be wiped up.
A service bulletin describes this problem and advises how to change out the leather friction washer. I thought I would try wd40 first as it
was a bit of work to take it all a part and change the friction disc. I am happy with the results.
It was getting so my shoulder was getting sore due to tightening
up all the muscles when trying to get the handle to move just a little
bit. It really is smoother to move now and much less difficult to
find the right spot for your forward speed.
Our TX68 hydrostat lever has been getting a bit sticky over the past couple years. When you want to move it a very slight amount forward
it would grab and then release which causes it to move farther than I
wanted it to go. Then when pulling it back to the desired spot it would do the same thing when backing it off.
There is a large leather type washer on the driver seat side of the handle pivot down inside the armrest. I soaked this washer down with
wd 40, accessing it through the ashtray. It took quite a lot of lube to get it to operate smoothly. After finishing there is some wd 40 collected in the bottom of the compartment that probably should be wiped up.
A service bulletin describes this problem and advises how to change out the leather friction washer. I thought I would try wd40 first as it
was a bit of work to take it all a part and change the friction disc. I am happy with the results.
It was getting so my shoulder was getting sore due to tightening
up all the muscles when trying to get the handle to move just a little
bit. It really is smoother to move now and much less difficult to
find the right spot for your forward speed.
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444 Posts
TX Walker Damage in Corn Caused by Chopper
The straw chopper on our 1996 tx68 will violently throw corn cobs
back into the machine and cause some wiring and sheet metal damage
unless some modifications to the stock configuration are done. This does not happen with all varieties of corn because some cob types are harder than others. This occurs even with the chopper in the slowed down mode.
Before the mods the exposed wiring harnesses and the back 6 inches of the walkers (top and bottom) were getting all beat up. The wires
would get a bit shredded in the area along the sides of the rear of the machine where the harnesses run down both sides and in the area on the bottom sides of the walkers where the wires go into the walker loss monitor sensors.The walkers lost the back 6 inches of grates on the top and the bottom 6 inches got all dinted up. The walker damage only occurred on the 4 that did not have the covers on the ends. Two of the walkers that were undamaged had the
loss monitors mounted to end covers that stopped the cobs from getting to the underside of the walker top grates. They also strengthened up the bottom sheetmetal of these 2 walkers so they
would not dent and deform.
New Holland sent out a diagram to make a removable larger deflector above the chopper that completly covers the adjustable
one that is permanently mounted above the chopper on a hinge.
It must be only used for corn because it will plug up the back of the machine if used in other crops. This helped somewhat but there is still a clear line of sight between the chopper and the bottom of the walkers. At least the cobs are not pounding away at the entire back of the combine inside metal now.
To strengthen up the back of the walkers I bought end covers for the ones that did not already have the covers and welded a little extension on them to make them fit the whole open end.
To protect the grain loss sensor wires I spit a fuel line and put the wires inside and fastened it back the same way with larger adell clamps.
The wiring harnesses down both sides can be protected by cutting
foam rubber strips and wedging them up into the recess on each side where the harnesses run to the rear lights and whatnot. I pull these out in the fall and clean the dust out of this area.
Damage to the grates was repaired using some walker repair
sheet metal parts form New Holland. I cut the damaged area out and cut the replacement parts to fit and tack welded them in using
the smallest welding rod I could get and my ac buzzbox.
The straw chopper on our 1996 tx68 will violently throw corn cobs
back into the machine and cause some wiring and sheet metal damage
unless some modifications to the stock configuration are done. This does not happen with all varieties of corn because some cob types are harder than others. This occurs even with the chopper in the slowed down mode.
Before the mods the exposed wiring harnesses and the back 6 inches of the walkers (top and bottom) were getting all beat up. The wires
would get a bit shredded in the area along the sides of the rear of the machine where the harnesses run down both sides and in the area on the bottom sides of the walkers where the wires go into the walker loss monitor sensors.The walkers lost the back 6 inches of grates on the top and the bottom 6 inches got all dinted up. The walker damage only occurred on the 4 that did not have the covers on the ends. Two of the walkers that were undamaged had the
loss monitors mounted to end covers that stopped the cobs from getting to the underside of the walker top grates. They also strengthened up the bottom sheetmetal of these 2 walkers so they
would not dent and deform.
New Holland sent out a diagram to make a removable larger deflector above the chopper that completly covers the adjustable
one that is permanently mounted above the chopper on a hinge.
It must be only used for corn because it will plug up the back of the machine if used in other crops. This helped somewhat but there is still a clear line of sight between the chopper and the bottom of the walkers. At least the cobs are not pounding away at the entire back of the combine inside metal now.
To strengthen up the back of the walkers I bought end covers for the ones that did not already have the covers and welded a little extension on them to make them fit the whole open end.
To protect the grain loss sensor wires I spit a fuel line and put the wires inside and fastened it back the same way with larger adell clamps.
The wiring harnesses down both sides can be protected by cutting
foam rubber strips and wedging them up into the recess on each side where the harnesses run to the rear lights and whatnot. I pull these out in the fall and clean the dust out of this area.
Damage to the grates was repaired using some walker repair
sheet metal parts form New Holland. I cut the damaged area out and cut the replacement parts to fit and tack welded them in using
the smallest welding rod I could get and my ac buzzbox.
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444 Posts
TX cab bin window
The cab window to see into the bin is a fixed window in the back of the cab and a removable window in the bin wall with about an inch of clearance between the two. The space between the cab and bin has
a bit of dust movement in there and the window gets dirty in a couple days of dusty running. Climbing in the bin and removing the window to clean them is a bit of a pain. The rubber strip between the bin and the cab can be pried up right behind the door and a shot of air directed towards the windows can clean the dust off somewhat. It works a few times until the really sticky dust builds up and the window is again hard to see through.
I stuffed some 2X2 inch strips of foam rubber all the way around the
window wedged between the cab and bin. I only need to take the window out in the bin once per year now to clean them.
The cab window to see into the bin is a fixed window in the back of the cab and a removable window in the bin wall with about an inch of clearance between the two. The space between the cab and bin has
a bit of dust movement in there and the window gets dirty in a couple days of dusty running. Climbing in the bin and removing the window to clean them is a bit of a pain. The rubber strip between the bin and the cab can be pried up right behind the door and a shot of air directed towards the windows can clean the dust off somewhat. It works a few times until the really sticky dust builds up and the window is again hard to see through.
I stuffed some 2X2 inch strips of foam rubber all the way around the
window wedged between the cab and bin. I only need to take the window out in the bin once per year now to clean them.
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444 Posts
You may want to check your walker crankshaft end bearings where they go through the sides of the machine. They are easy to change and are of a self aligning type,double row ball races.
To check them lift up on a walker at the back and watch for play where the crankshaft goes
through the sides. Ours had the back 2 a little loose so I changed all 4. One back one was
missing some balls and the rest were loose. This combine has about 1500 separator hours.
The 2 pulleys pull of easily, the front pulley on the right side gets pulled by removing
2 bolts in the hub and pulling on some bolts inserted in the 2 holes.
To check them lift up on a walker at the back and watch for play where the crankshaft goes
through the sides. Ours had the back 2 a little loose so I changed all 4. One back one was
missing some balls and the rest were loose. This combine has about 1500 separator hours.
The 2 pulleys pull of easily, the front pulley on the right side gets pulled by removing
2 bolts in the hub and pulling on some bolts inserted in the 2 holes.
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444 Posts
Here is another thing you can check.
On the rear of the sieve frame there are some rollers that keep the
sieve frame in place when the self leveling shoe tilts left and right.
These plastic wheels are on the left and right side and keep the
shoe from sliding to left or right. The wheels can seize up and wear
down which can cause the sieve frame to be loose left to right.
I found one on mine wore down about 3/4 of an inch allowing
the sieve to be able to move left and right. I noticed it when I was
undoing the latches in the cover where you adjust the lower sieve.
While undoing the latches I noticed that the whole frame was moving
left and right while opening the catches.
I swaped the plastic wheels and their bracket side to side to get me through harvest. This put the unworn side of the wheel against the
frame and took up all the slack.
In the middle just above the axle pivot is 2 regular roller bearings
that keep the sieve frame centered in the up and down plane.
The front of the shoe is on a fixed bolt pivot point.
On the rear of the sieve frame there are some rollers that keep the
sieve frame in place when the self leveling shoe tilts left and right.
These plastic wheels are on the left and right side and keep the
shoe from sliding to left or right. The wheels can seize up and wear
down which can cause the sieve frame to be loose left to right.
I found one on mine wore down about 3/4 of an inch allowing
the sieve to be able to move left and right. I noticed it when I was
undoing the latches in the cover where you adjust the lower sieve.
While undoing the latches I noticed that the whole frame was moving
left and right while opening the catches.
I swaped the plastic wheels and their bracket side to side to get me through harvest. This put the unworn side of the wheel against the
frame and took up all the slack.
In the middle just above the axle pivot is 2 regular roller bearings
that keep the sieve frame centered in the up and down plane.
The front of the shoe is on a fixed bolt pivot point.
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444 Posts
The motor on a TX68 that powers the fan and cylinder adjustment has a
ventilation hole in the side that is taped up at the factory. Over time the
tape falls off and the small hole on mine allowed the motor to become
jammed full of dirt. The brushes were also stuck so they would not
contact the armature. After taking the motor apart and cleaning it
all out, it worked fine again and the hole was taped over again
with electrical tape.
ventilation hole in the side that is taped up at the factory. Over time the
tape falls off and the small hole on mine allowed the motor to become
jammed full of dirt. The brushes were also stuck so they would not
contact the armature. After taking the motor apart and cleaning it
all out, it worked fine again and the hole was taped over again
with electrical tape.
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459 Posts
first year running one , but would suggest , going through the machine (cx ), and cutting a few of the zip ties , there holding wires too tight and causing premature wear , cracking the wire surrounds and causing lots of fault fing down time , the wires that go to the sieves being the main ones for us , cut the tie that is closest to the actuaor for sure, if not the next one as well
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1,056 Posts
Engine harness on early CX machines have a abrassive loom which will rub through the wires giving grief. Replace with new harness.
Of course the exhaust manifold bolts (most should be upgraded by now).
Hyd resevoir (plastic) needs to be upgraded to the metal one.
Of course the exhaust manifold bolts (most should be upgraded by now).
Hyd resevoir (plastic) needs to be upgraded to the metal one.
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444 Posts
TX 68 2500 hours
Had a howling noise that lasted about 90 seconds after cold startup.
Very hard to trace because where ever you stood all around the machine
it sounded like it was right in front of you and the fact that it did not give
you much time to find it before it stopped.
I loosened most every belt to eliminate different sections of the machine it
turned out to be an idler behind the spinning rad screen that tensions the
belt to the fan. The sound coming through the fan was doing strange things
that made it hard to pinpoint. The bearings in the screen where a bit loose
also so they got changed as well as the fan bearings while I had it all apart.
Had a howling noise that lasted about 90 seconds after cold startup.
Very hard to trace because where ever you stood all around the machine
it sounded like it was right in front of you and the fact that it did not give
you much time to find it before it stopped.
I loosened most every belt to eliminate different sections of the machine it
turned out to be an idler behind the spinning rad screen that tensions the
belt to the fan. The sound coming through the fan was doing strange things
that made it hard to pinpoint. The bearings in the screen where a bit loose
also so they got changed as well as the fan bearings while I had it all apart.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
