New rasp bar style. (with pictures)

3433 Views 7 Replies 6 Participants Last post by HighDesert, Oct 8, 2009

doorknob

Discussion Starter · Jun 28, 2009

Hi all. I wanted a rasp bar for threshing tough clovers and wheats. I have been looking at the old Gleaner rotary combines for some time, and really would like to have one, just have'nt got that far yet. I really like their idea of having the ability to install reverse rasps on some of the bars. Thinking further, the conventional combines have left and right rasp bars, though for different reasons, they still accomplish a similar action with the crop material. So........ I called my friend Ron Kile http://www.kilemfg.com/ , <---shameless plug...d

and asked if he could help me out. Well, just in the nick of time, litterally as we will be in the field hopefully today and they showed up late last night, look what showed up via Fed-x.

The box.

A comparison shot of the bars.

The back side. Notice the super cool locating and anti twist raisement (is that a real word?) the pattern maker installed.

So I just could'nt wait to see one on the rotor and got a quick bite to eat then back to the shop for an install. Got one on and will install the rest this morning. I have 12 bars and will put them in a pattern that I feel is the best suited for the situation. 4 will go over the grates to start will and 8 between the center and rear concaves. Perfect fit.

Couple more views here real quick.

They look great. I think the concept is sound, but will soon find out. The fit and finish is outstanding. I'm looking forward to giving them a try and seeing if they either improve the tough threshing abilities of the red machine, or completely flop. I'll let ya know either way.

A bonus goodie showed up in the same box. Got the first pair of factory sharpened knives (wear blades) in the new cast style. Thanks Ron.

Thanks for looking.

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homefarmtobydog

· #2 · Jun 28, 2009

Have you meant the ribs on the bars to be the opposite angle to the original?

Will this and the removal of the angle on the bar not slow the material flowing through the rotor too much?

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okpanhandle

· #3 · Jun 28, 2009

That sounds like a pretty good idea. It might be just the ticket for some of our hard to thresh wheat varieties. We have a standard rotor, though, so that might bring up more issues. I'm thinking the longer bars on a standard rotor would eat too much horsepower if a few of them had the backwards ribs, and it may be too aggressive for corn. I can't wait to hear how they work.

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caseihaxialflow

· #4 · Jun 28, 2009

Whoa - plenty of beef on them. If thats the way they are making the ribs on them i would make sure your transport vanes are in good condition to help the crop through - also don't forget to check the balance of your rotor before you wind her up. Do you shim all of your rasp bars level?

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doorknob

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jun 28, 2009

So far, so good. Cant make any claims as of yet, but in the crimson clover I'm running right now, the rotor vanes and the reserse rasp bars are working perfectly.

A few people stopped by as I was installing them and as usual, they claimed I best take the tools and stock bars in the combine with me as I would be changing them out as soon as I got the machine unplugged.............

Well, I actually started doubting the idea as I was driving the combine to the field and was figuring out the best and quickest method for changing back to the stock bars without pulling the concaves. Thankfully, once I hit the field and ran some crop through, all doubts disappeared.

Tryed a quick kill, but failed as the rotor would not stop fast enough, however I took the time to look around it anyway. Was impressed with the content and condition of the material that was coming through the grates.

Ran a small bit more today and was even more impressed. However the crop has some harry vetch in it and the weather has not allowed the vetch pods to dry up yet so I was getting too many pea green vetch seeds in the tank, which is not good, so I quit. Wind is blowing and will give it a go again monday.

Rearward material transport is not an issue. Plugging grates is not an issue. Damp, tough material, which is where they are supposed shine for threshing, but was worried about the roping possibility?............unreal how smoothe the tough straw transports and exits the machine. There were 2 theories at the time, one was that the reverse rasps would tear the rope apart and the other was that the reverse rasps would stall the material and cause the roping to be worse. Thankfully the first theory was correct and not so much as an attempt to rope has shown up.

Still, cant make any claims. Cant say for sure that they are the new great ticket to everything. That sort of thing will have to be done by someone that folks respect for their knowledge and abilities. I'm just reporting my own little experiences from my own little world, so dont put much in what I say as my crops and conditions are far different than 99% of the folks here.

Here's a couple pics of the field I'm in now. These were taken about may 24.

I will try to get some pics of the running as soon as I can.
Thanks.

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redhat

· #6 · Jun 28, 2009

I have to ask. So why the reverse rasp and then the Gorden bars.? Kind of contradictory isn't it? Reverse bar slows it up and the Gorden Bars kick it out real fast?

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doorknob

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jun 30, 2009

You'd think so, but the idea of the reverse rasp is not to slow the rearward transport, but to simply grab the material in a different manner. In a gleaner rotary, the reverse rasps are a lot longer and a greater percentage of the total. As long as one does'nt get carried away with the reverse rasps, in theory, they can give a more aggressive threshing action, but without increasing the impact damage that can happen if you instead close the concave and increase the rotor speed. ?

Ran all day monday with not one issue. I hope to get the machine home wednesday and drop the concaves to have a look 'round and take some more pictures.

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HighDesert

· #8 · Oct 8, 2009

Doorknob, how did those reverse rasp bars end up working out and what was the final verdict? We are looking at having some reverse bars made for a couple rotors we have. Pros or cons? Thanks

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