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Pole buildings are no doubt a cheap fast way to build a building, But a shop should have a foot or two of concrete wall above the floor. It prevents moisture from getting into your walls and insulation. Especially when your washing equipment inside. It also makes it more rodent resistant. Also in this frigid Sask climate there should be isulation at least 2 feet below grade to prevent the frost from coming up. I have a few neighbors who built pole buildings and is costing them a fortune to heat... We Build a 60x100 shop the other way and the furnace rarely kicks in.
 

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Pole buildings are no doubt a cheap fast way to build a building, But a shop should have a foot or two of concrete wall above the floor. It prevents moisture from getting into your walls and insulation. Especially when your washing equipment inside. It also makes it more rodent resistant. Also in this frigid Sask climate there should be isulation at least 2 feet below grade to prevent the frost from coming up. I have a few neighbors who built pole buildings and is costing them a fortune to heat... We Build a 60x100 shop the other way and the furnace rarely kicks in.
Cool. So you just put 2 inch styro board on outside of grade beam and below it? I like your idea of the grade beam. I'm not sure why people heat such big shops. Why not work on one machine(2 at most) and get them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Our neighbor put a pole building about 8 years ago for a heated shop. His posts are on 8 foot centers. Hasn't had any problems with it yet. His heating costs on a 44x68x18, are around $200 per month with natural gas radiant heaters.
 

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Pole buildings are no doubt a cheap fast way to build a building, But a shop should have a foot or two of concrete wall above the floor. It prevents moisture from getting into your walls and insulation. Especially when your washing equipment inside. It also makes it more rodent resistant. Also in this frigid Sask climate there should be isulation at least 2 feet below grade to prevent the frost from coming up. I have a few neighbors who built pole buildings and is costing them a fortune to heat... We Build a 60x100 shop the other way and the furnace rarely kicks in.
So your saying because you have a two foot grade beam your building is more energy efficient. Sorry, your gonna have to spell that out for me. Besides that 2 foot grade beam probably cost more than your floor. Is your grade beam on piles? If not what happens when your grade beam starts to move? I've seen a lot of failed grade beams where I live. They can heave and crack and lean. As far as washing. What have you done to keep moisture out between where your grade beam and floor meet?
What I'm saying is if done right the pole shed can easily be as efficient as the stud frame. Depending on the type of heat. If it's in floor, just how the pipe is zoned can make a huge difference, as well as how the floor is insulated as mentioned is a big deal. Would I take a stick building on a 2ft grade beam? Absolutely. I just don't see an advantage other than if your running into your walls. And I don't have your money to do it. Unless where you are cement is cheap.
 

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I agree with the insulation under the floor and most guys have their pit in the center of the building so washing equipment in buildings this big should never happen around the walls. As far as heat loss goes no difference if the pole building is done proper.
 

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The soil moving/heaving is only in unheated buildings or concrete uninsulated around the outside.
Grade beam in cold Quonset does heave and move.
Even seen piles under grade beams move.
We insulated a single pour floor, 12" thick perimeter, 6" floor, on the outside 2' deep and 2' horizontal. It has been heated since new in 1988 and the floor has never moved. The soil under the building never freezes.
Double walls R 32, ceiling R50, door R16, 40x64 costs average $400 per year on NG. Temp at +6C night, + 12C when used. Wood work area separately heated to +16C when used.
Most important is enjoy the shops guys, best investment we made, year round use, oh yes, it's very cool when + 30 in summer!
Good luck Duchek, thanks for the pics.
 

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BUILT A 35X45X14 2FT GRADE BEAM ON PILES EVERY 8FT. NO INSULATION ON OUTSIDE OF GRADE BEAM. FLOOR IS 6IN THICK ON PILES 6FT SQUARE, NO INSULATION UNDER FLOOR, iN FLOOR HEATING SINCE NEW IN 2000 AND KEEP INSIDE TEMP AT 20C ALL WINTER. 6IN AROUND BUILDING SNOW MELTS AND GROUND NEVER FREEZES SO NEVER GET FROST HEAVE. I HAVE 57,000 CUBIC FEET OF HEATED SPACE ON MY PROPERTY. I INSULATED ALL MY HEATED BUILDINGS WITH 4.5IN OF SPRAYED IN URETHANE FOAM AND 14IN OF CELULITE IN ATTIC. I HEAT HOUSE , HOUSE GARAGE AND SHOP TO 20C. MY HEATING BILL FOR 2012 WAS JUST OVER 2200.00. LIVE NORTH WEST EDMONTON
 

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Pole buildings are no doubt a cheap fast way to build a building, But a shop should have a foot or two of concrete wall above the floor. It prevents moisture from getting into your walls and insulation. Especially when your washing equipment inside. It also makes it more rodent resistant. Also in this frigid Sask climate there should be isulation at least 2 feet below grade to prevent the frost from coming up. I have a few neighbors who built pole buildings and is costing them a fortune to heat... We Build a 60x100 shop the other way and the furnace rarely kicks in.

Turn to heat down and grow a few chest hairs ;) We heat our pole shop with fuel oil (diesel) and NG, we get by.
 

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heated 50by 60ft 20ft high shop by goodon very happy with the shop only took them two days from start to finish fully insulated. this is the fourth winter and so far has not moved and about 70 dollars a month on natural gas heat (radiant)
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I thought our neighbors was cheap to heat at $200 a month but some of you guys are gettting by pretty cheap. I guess it all depends how many times a day your big door is open and for how long.
 

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heated 50by 60ft 20ft high shop by goodon very happy with the shop only took them two days from start to finish fully insulated. this is the fourth winter and so far has not moved and about 70 dollars a month on natural gas heat (radiant)
What do you have for insulation in your building and how often are your doors open?
 

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I really think there is a lot of bs about the coast to heat shops. If your heating your shop for $200 a month either its 45 degrees and your heating the shop to 47 or its a Ertl toy shed. My buddy just built a 40'x50'x16' heated shop he opens the door once a day it cost him $600 a mounth.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
The neighbor I was talking about has a seperate gas meter on his shop so he knows exactly what it costs. He has stuff going in and out on a regular basis also. Probably keeps its around 16 degrees Celsius.
 

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Are these monthly cost averaged over a 12 month period or for the actual months the heat is on. This could be where some of the variables are coming.
 

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Gas bill for Dec was $69, and it's been -20 to -30 for most of the time.
Doors open about 4 times a week. Wood work about 2 weeks in the month.
Vehicle/ machinery maintenance on 5 days.
 

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This is another way to build a shop. Its got a 4 foot concrete wall on a grade beam that will be under the ground at least 2 feet. The Floor will come up 2 feet on the wall. Im doing the work myself as much as possible so it wont go up overly quick...but ill save myself a pile of money:rolleyes:. The Main shop part is 52x80 and its got a 14x80 lean-to on it as you can see. The lean-to will hold my office, bathroom and storage. This is nice as it wont take up a corner in the main shop as so many I have seen.
 

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