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Just bought a flex coil drill most guys around here use 6 inch space box drills I wanna go more to a minimal tillage program how do I get my spacing down to 7.5 or 6 move shanks and a single shoot point or leave shanks and go with wider points similar to a broadcast seeding any advice or ideas would be appreciated I understand the packer wheels spacing would need to be changed or revamped of some sort thanks
 

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You may find moving shanks to so tight a spacing hard to do on the frame of the 5000 without modifications to the frame. What's your spacing now? Why do you want to go down to such a tight spacing to begin with?
 

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Most 7.2” Flexicoil 5000s had 2” packers on them. Use a 2” wide opener if you would like more SBU. Unless you have shank mounted packers you won‘t be able to move shanks to shank spacing.
 

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You may find moving shanks to so tight a spacing hard to do on the frame of the 5000 without modifications to the frame. What's your spacing now? Why do you want to go down to such a tight spacing to begin with?
10 inch now I guess I am wanting my seed to completely cover the ground similar to a broadcast seeding what size tips do I need any advice would help seeding 125 pounds spring wheat
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Most 7.2” Flexicoil 5000s had 2” packers on them. Use a 2” wide opener if you would like more SBU. Unless you have shank mounted packers you won‘t be able to move shanks to shank spacing.
SBU define that please. 10 inch space now shoot for 125 pounds spring wheat would like seed to come up similar to a broadcast seeding Do they make shank mounted packers any advice would help thank you neighbors think I am nuts for hoe drill not common around here thanks again
 

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I don't think 100% seed bed utilization, and minimal tillage program can be used in the same sentence.
Some very high input farmers around here put wide shovels/spoons on flexicoils to get nearly full SBU. Along with the widest rubber packers. But they are in full tillage as well.

Not quite clear from your post, is this machine set up for single or double shoot? And how will you be applying fertilizer? go wide enough and it should be safe to single shoot fertilizer and seed together.

You can get on shank packers( or at least used to be able to), which were made to convert cultivators to air seeders.

Then you could use any row spacing you want, provided you can find room on the frame to mount them. Which I expect would be tight given the FC frames and how they fold. Would also need different or more manifolds and primary hoses, to feed more runs. Are all the runs from the cart in use already?
 

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You most likely have 4.5” packers. You should measure them. I have VW 10FC openers on my FC5000. They work well with my 4.5” packers. There are boatload of opener options. Single shoot, double shoot, paired row, etc Pick your width and your style. Carbide or not. soil type would also come into play on opener choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
SBU = seed bed utilization. How wide are your packers?
I will measure not positive
I don't think 100% seed bed utilization, and minimal tillage program can be used in the same sentence.
Some very high input farmers around here put wide shovels/spoons on flexicoils to get nearly full SBU. Along with the widest rubber packers. But they are in full tillage as well.

Not quite clear from your post, is this machine set up for single or double shoot? And how will you be applying fertilizer? go wide enough and it should be safe to single shoot fertilizer and seed together.

You can get on shank packers( or at least used to be able to), which were made to convert cultivators to air seeders.

Then you could use any row spacing you want, provided you can find room on the frame to mount them. Which I expect would be tight given the FC frames and how they fold. Would also need different or more manifolds and primary hoses, to feed more runs. Are all the runs from the cart in use already?
double shoot apply fertilizer when planting I need to do more homework on this I appreciate your help I would also like to seed triticale into established alfalfa and would probably need the narrowest point to do this I assume
 

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Just bought a flex coil drill most guys around here use 6 inch space box drills I wanna go more to a minimal tillage program how do I get my spacing down to 7.5 or 6 move shanks and a single shoot point or leave shanks and go with wider points similar to a broadcast seeding any advice or ideas would be appreciated I understand the packer wheels spacing would need to be changed or revamped of some sort thanks
Depending on packer width you could have more seed bed utilization than the box drill. A 1" packer on a 7" space drill gives you a 14% seed bed while a 3" packer on 10" gives you a 30% seed bed assuming spreading seed full width and not paired row. Also you have to watch what type of packer you have and soil conditions. If you have a wide spread single shot opener you need a flat rubber style packer because if you have a "V" packer you would only pack the center and not the edge. If you have a side band or paired row you have to watch most require a "V" packer to keep from pushing the seed down into the fertilizer trench and messing up your seeding depth or causing fertilizer burn. "V" packers are typically for drier areas and rubber flat are for wetter areas. Just for info I have had 6" disc and 7" hoe box drills, 9" spaced air seeder with 5" spread, 12" spaced air drill with 5" paired row flexi coil 5000 and now a paired row conservapac
 

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The 4” wide openers I have are low draft. The deeper you seed the more draft you’ll have.
 

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If you put on the right opener like a Dutch Low draft paired row opener with a 3.5 in wide tip you will have 4 inch wide rows with 6 inch of space in between. When you go to narrow your packer wheels will ball up in the mud and the drill will plug in heavy straw. For us the 12 inch spacing with the above opener gives us a 4 inch row of crop with 8 inches of space in between. Any narrower and we would not go through heavy clay mud without balling up. The 8 in of space allows us to have space to seed between the rows as well if needed.
 

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Been a few people playing around with zero row spacing in no till in aus, sweet spot seems to be spreading 50% of the seed in front of the tynes and the other 50% down the tube with a 40mm point. Nothing fancy required for spreading the seed just deflector plates on the end of hoses every couple of feet. Fert goes down the shoot. Works fine out to 12" spacing. If you flat roll it it will even up germination but it will still germinate pretty close between row and inter row just with ordinary row packers
 

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If you put on the right opener like a Dutch Low draft paired row opener with a 3.5 in wide tip you will have 4 inch wide rows with 6 inch of space in between. When you go to narrow your packer wheels will ball up in the mud and the drill will plug in heavy straw. For us the 12 inch spacing with the above opener gives us a 4 inch row of crop with 8 inches of space in between. Any narrower and we would not go through heavy clay mud without balling up. The 8 in of space allows us to have space to seed between the rows as well if needed.
Friend of mine has 72 of these openers/bodies and some shanks for sale. Also a few packer wheels.
 
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