Looking at a few combines today, and came across a NH TR98 with 1465 sep hrs on it. It is a 1998 and they want 45k for it. We were really looking at the CIH 2188's but they seem to hold there value more than the TRs so buying a used TR seems to pencil out a but easier. I was wondering what are some things to look for on these TRs and how they rate against a CIH rotory? Is there a reason why the NHs do not hold there value? We mainly combine Canola, wheat, barley and oats.
NH TR98 ?s
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wow, our tr 98 has around 1800 and we put its value at 70k. if you dont buy this combine, than you should let us know where its at.
even if you buy that combine and the rotors and concaves need rebuilt, you will be still on top by alot. we usually rebuild our rotors and concaves every five years. i would check the thickness of the seives. if you havnt been around new holland concaves than it would be tough to judge their rotors and concaves because they are so much diff.
my dad will swear all day long that he can tune a tr to throw over less than any other combine out there, this is why we still have our 98. if you have questions about it, i will ask him for you. we do not however cut those small grains. we run wheat and milo mostly.
as for defects on the tr to look for, i would check the engine oil pan gasket. these are common to leak, and its only like $400 to fix. we also keep loosing our power steering hose. i re-routed it this year to see if i can make the dang thing last. as for that, i love our combine. its getting up there in age and i can still make newer deeres cry.'
Matt
even if you buy that combine and the rotors and concaves need rebuilt, you will be still on top by alot. we usually rebuild our rotors and concaves every five years. i would check the thickness of the seives. if you havnt been around new holland concaves than it would be tough to judge their rotors and concaves because they are so much diff.
my dad will swear all day long that he can tune a tr to throw over less than any other combine out there, this is why we still have our 98. if you have questions about it, i will ask him for you. we do not however cut those small grains. we run wheat and milo mostly.
as for defects on the tr to look for, i would check the engine oil pan gasket. these are common to leak, and its only like $400 to fix. we also keep loosing our power steering hose. i re-routed it this year to see if i can make the dang thing last. as for that, i love our combine. its getting up there in age and i can still make newer deeres cry.'
Matt
How is it for when the grain gets tough we are upgrading from a TR75, it likes to favor the one side of the rotor. How does yours keep up to some of the Axial Flows? Do you like how the cab is laid out for controls and the hydro? It is a heck of a deal cause it also comes with a 25ft straight cut header.
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We've run our TR98 in wheat and canola, and our old TR86 in Barley. No oats, but it does thresh wild oats out quite well. The 98 has 1600 hrs on the thresher right now and its in pieces for a rebuild in our shop.
Anyway, our oilpan gasket is seeping a little bit, but we just add oil. It maybe takes a liter a week, so its nothing to complain about. The engine, however, is amazing on fuel. We can run 12 hours on a 100 gallon tank of fuel and not be able to put 90 gallons in it the next morning when we fuel it up again.
Had ours at Swift Current 4 or 5 years back and they said that the snap rings will break in the driven rotor pulley and make a mess, so they cut the groove bigger and double snap ring it. No problems at all.
If you're needing concaves, I would recommend harvest services out of Craik. 5 years on them and we're flipping them side for side to wear the other way. They have been incredible and are very very strong.
The rotors wear rather quickly but they do a lot of work. We run durum and hard red spring wheat through the machine, probably the most abrasive crops around, so we'll get about 900 hrs until a total rebuild. Watch out for the rotor covers too, they wear through over the top because the clearances are too tight, the new CRs have addressed this.
The cleaning system is excellent. If there is one reason to stay away from a axial flow its the durability of the cleaning system. That gets expensive quick!
The bubble up gearbox seems to be a weak point for these machines. There have been a lot of upgrades to them over their lifespan. We have put 2 into our TR98. just replace the guts and you're good to go again. Not a hard job, just something to look out for.
As for capacity. It ran with a 7010 this year, and it has shown a 06 9660STS a few things about cutting fast and making a good sample. The amount of work per horsepower that you get done with a TR is unmatched. In the tough stuff they will rumble and grunt, but the worst is swaths that have been rained on. They kind of lump in all the time. if you can straight cut most everything, you'll be laughing. These are quite the straight cutting machines.
The cabs are crude compared to the CR/CX and 8010s, but they are very user friendly and you have everything you need right there. They aren't sealed up that great and they are a little cramped, but for being brought in with the 86 and 96s they are quite good still. If I were you I would buy the machine.
Anyway, our oilpan gasket is seeping a little bit, but we just add oil. It maybe takes a liter a week, so its nothing to complain about. The engine, however, is amazing on fuel. We can run 12 hours on a 100 gallon tank of fuel and not be able to put 90 gallons in it the next morning when we fuel it up again.
Had ours at Swift Current 4 or 5 years back and they said that the snap rings will break in the driven rotor pulley and make a mess, so they cut the groove bigger and double snap ring it. No problems at all.
If you're needing concaves, I would recommend harvest services out of Craik. 5 years on them and we're flipping them side for side to wear the other way. They have been incredible and are very very strong.
The rotors wear rather quickly but they do a lot of work. We run durum and hard red spring wheat through the machine, probably the most abrasive crops around, so we'll get about 900 hrs until a total rebuild. Watch out for the rotor covers too, they wear through over the top because the clearances are too tight, the new CRs have addressed this.
The cleaning system is excellent. If there is one reason to stay away from a axial flow its the durability of the cleaning system. That gets expensive quick!
The bubble up gearbox seems to be a weak point for these machines. There have been a lot of upgrades to them over their lifespan. We have put 2 into our TR98. just replace the guts and you're good to go again. Not a hard job, just something to look out for.
As for capacity. It ran with a 7010 this year, and it has shown a 06 9660STS a few things about cutting fast and making a good sample. The amount of work per horsepower that you get done with a TR is unmatched. In the tough stuff they will rumble and grunt, but the worst is swaths that have been rained on. They kind of lump in all the time. if you can straight cut most everything, you'll be laughing. These are quite the straight cutting machines.
The cabs are crude compared to the CR/CX and 8010s, but they are very user friendly and you have everything you need right there. They aren't sealed up that great and they are a little cramped, but for being brought in with the 86 and 96s they are quite good still. If I were you I would buy the machine.
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we put 2500 through last year.
Depending on what straightcut header you have you will be limited by the feedhouse. We had a macdon with a silly little hydraulic beater on it and it just wouldnt feed into the opening. Go with a honeybee or a auger head and you'll be better off. Ask me next year how the honey bee works...
Depending on what straightcut header you have you will be limited by the feedhouse. We had a macdon with a silly little hydraulic beater on it and it just wouldnt feed into the opening. Go with a honeybee or a auger head and you'll be better off. Ask me next year how the honey bee works...
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depending on where you are that could be a machine in need of a lot of work for the # of hours that are on it. Thats kind of where ours needed its biggest amount of help.
The cab doors are a little goofy in the latching system, and the cab air filter is a little hokey in how it seals. In comparrison to a 2188, I would say they are about the same to a little worse. The 2188 is nice but i think that I have heard that the cab air filters plug up real fast.
Our returns seemed to a be a little lopsided to the left hand (cab step side) rotor. Wore out a sieve under the beater because of all the returns. Have to move the plate in the return system and try a couple kill stalls to make sure its good. Looking at our front plate above the feedhouse it looks like that rotor pulls more material in as well, so it was doubly bad for it.
TRs are probably the most underrated combine in the business. One will cut close to what 3 9600 deeres can do in the right conditions. Working at a Case IH dealership and then having a TR makes me really appreciate the TR in how it works and is put together. I think they are more user friendly to maintain, and they don't have the shaker issue like the case.
The cab doors are a little goofy in the latching system, and the cab air filter is a little hokey in how it seals. In comparrison to a 2188, I would say they are about the same to a little worse. The 2188 is nice but i think that I have heard that the cab air filters plug up real fast.
Our returns seemed to a be a little lopsided to the left hand (cab step side) rotor. Wore out a sieve under the beater because of all the returns. Have to move the plate in the return system and try a couple kill stalls to make sure its good. Looking at our front plate above the feedhouse it looks like that rotor pulls more material in as well, so it was doubly bad for it.
TRs are probably the most underrated combine in the business. One will cut close to what 3 9600 deeres can do in the right conditions. Working at a Case IH dealership and then having a TR makes me really appreciate the TR in how it works and is put together. I think they are more user friendly to maintain, and they don't have the shaker issue like the case.
I am by Edmonton Alberta, if that makes any difference. So there is no worry about a corn and bean combine, those seem to be wore out by 1400hrs. When you get big piles coming through does the rotors seem to plug up easier? I know our Tr75 the right rotor as soon as you get a pile it takes the whole thing and it does not split it with the left rotor.
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the only thing that seems to scare our 98 is green weeds. it will EAT the wheat as long as its not really tough. i always get worried when 3 or 4 fire weeds come in at the same time. our combine hates em.
Matt
p.s. we cant afford a shed right now...... new tractor had to come first
Matt
p.s. we cant afford a shed right now...... new tractor had to come first
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yup, 960 for sure or 970, thats what we did. Anyway, TR98 topic...
We didnt have that kind of trouble with ours like you describe with your TR75. The kochia will take down a machine, and we were doing peas with green stems and running the rotors really slow. The belt would slip because the spring in the variator was loose. The machine would plug but not stall. So whenever it started happening I'd stab the rotor speed toggle to tighten it up. Not good for stuff but better than using that stupid wrench that slips off!
If you're in edmonton, it would be a great combine I would think. No problems with rocks and a pleasure to operate. You really should consider getting a draper head though. Makes a world of difference.
Pop the side covers out and have a good look inside the machine. If you can see any light coming in from above the rotors that bad news and not cheap. Also, drop the rock door and look in towards the rear of the machine. The metal piece that is right behind the feeder drive shaft will wear through right under the rotor intake augers. Check out the feedhouse floor and rock trap door for wear. We wore through the bottom of our grain tank this year right by the unload auger, but thats an easy fix as well. Those are probably the main wear areas to look out for on this machine.
We didnt have that kind of trouble with ours like you describe with your TR75. The kochia will take down a machine, and we were doing peas with green stems and running the rotors really slow. The belt would slip because the spring in the variator was loose. The machine would plug but not stall. So whenever it started happening I'd stab the rotor speed toggle to tighten it up. Not good for stuff but better than using that stupid wrench that slips off!
If you're in edmonton, it would be a great combine I would think. No problems with rocks and a pleasure to operate. You really should consider getting a draper head though. Makes a world of difference.
Pop the side covers out and have a good look inside the machine. If you can see any light coming in from above the rotors that bad news and not cheap. Also, drop the rock door and look in towards the rear of the machine. The metal piece that is right behind the feeder drive shaft will wear through right under the rotor intake augers. Check out the feedhouse floor and rock trap door for wear. We wore through the bottom of our grain tank this year right by the unload auger, but thats an easy fix as well. Those are probably the main wear areas to look out for on this machine.
kirschenman - you said your currently rebuilding your TR98 in the shop......how big of a door do you need to fit these in a shop? My shop only has a 12x12 door so I think that may be too small. Peas do some weird things to combines I have heard. How do you find them for ease of maintaining and rebuilding? With our TR75 if a belt went on the drivers side it was pretty much pull the whole side of the combine off, had the main bearing go on the seperator drive and that was a 4 day project to get it apart. I would love a draper header but this one comes with a flex head so maybe in a few years when drapers come down in price I will look for a 30ft honeybee.
fordboy - I would be interested in what your dad built for the returns, might be something I need to look into for the TR.
fordboy - I would be interested in what your dad built for the returns, might be something I need to look into for the TR.
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well there should be little flippers that u can adjust, we just made wider bigger ones and helped direct it. as for the door, god i hope that it could fit in a 12 foot door. im pretty sure we had to clear a 14 foot 6 inch bridge on a trailor. we always took our air cleaner intake deally off when pulling into the shop. it was taller than the combine.
Matt
Matt
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We can fit it into a 16ft door, but a 14 would be tough. we can get it in at 12 and a 1/2 for height with the precleaner taken off. a 12 x 12 door wont work.
ease of maintenance. hmm. Well, the rotor belt comes off rather easily, Just take out the hydraulic adjuster and wrestle it off. Its a little harder than taking the belt off a skidoo, as the pulleys are a little worse to work with. Sometimes its a little tight in with the clean grain elevator. Of course, off is easy with a knife. Its tough to put a new belt on with a knife though.
It is a pretty user friendly machine to maintain. This year we had the beater assembly , both rotors, one rotor gearbox, both elevators, the chaffer, and feedhouse off. Really wasn't anything brutally hard, just a little bit of time and sometimes a lot of hammering. The beater needed to be hammered hard the whole way. But thats not necessary to just change bearings, they both come off from the outside of the machine. Watch out for rotor coupler sprockets. If they need changing the gearboxes have to come apart since NH didn't quite have ring and pinions figured out even though every car maker has for 50 years.
Had the separator clutch off this harvest and it didn't look like it would be much more work to get the bearings out. Just a matter of having/making/ borrowing the right pullers. The service manual seems to have dimensions of lots of the tools you need so you can build the pullers if you need them.
I'm in search of the 30ft honeybee right now. Somewhere around 20 will get one without a pickup reel. Not too bad, I guess. Its a long time til harvest!
ease of maintenance. hmm. Well, the rotor belt comes off rather easily, Just take out the hydraulic adjuster and wrestle it off. Its a little harder than taking the belt off a skidoo, as the pulleys are a little worse to work with. Sometimes its a little tight in with the clean grain elevator. Of course, off is easy with a knife. Its tough to put a new belt on with a knife though.
It is a pretty user friendly machine to maintain. This year we had the beater assembly , both rotors, one rotor gearbox, both elevators, the chaffer, and feedhouse off. Really wasn't anything brutally hard, just a little bit of time and sometimes a lot of hammering. The beater needed to be hammered hard the whole way. But thats not necessary to just change bearings, they both come off from the outside of the machine. Watch out for rotor coupler sprockets. If they need changing the gearboxes have to come apart since NH didn't quite have ring and pinions figured out even though every car maker has for 50 years.
Had the separator clutch off this harvest and it didn't look like it would be much more work to get the bearings out. Just a matter of having/making/ borrowing the right pullers. The service manual seems to have dimensions of lots of the tools you need so you can build the pullers if you need them.
I'm in search of the 30ft honeybee right now. Somewhere around 20 will get one without a pickup reel. Not too bad, I guess. Its a long time til harvest!
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our 98 seems to favor one rotor too, we have addressed this buy cutting backwards in a field and dad said to ask where your return was dumping?
he said he built a custom plate to dump the return on the other rotor more. this helps even out the flow. we also have put the updated bubble up auger in and drive. no problems since. its been an incredible machine.
oh, ours hasnt been shedded since 1999
Matt
he said he built a custom plate to dump the return on the other rotor more. this helps even out the flow. we also have put the updated bubble up auger in and drive. no problems since. its been an incredible machine.
oh, ours hasnt been shedded since 1999
Matt
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