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I have an older '91 9600 that I had been running a '89 920F head on. I bought a newer '96 920F head to replace the old one, but now realize the angles on the feederhouse/heads were changed mid series. So the new head, even with sickle tipped all the way down is tipped back with the sickle up in the air way too far. What are the best options to get the new head to tip down to run properly on the ground?
 

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Oh fun...this problem. JD actually made a mistake, and the '89-'90 or '91 had the wrong feeder angle, pitched further back than the older (7720) or later ('92 & up) combines. It isn't just newer heads, the older heads also sit wrong. I ran into this precise problem, bought a '90 model 9500 to replace a 7720, and the 920 platform was rolled way back. Could not even hook up when head was sitting flat on the ground. As you said, adjusting the cutter bar angle isn't enough. Most of the newer Techs have no idea what you are talking about (I even had a couple guys tell me this whole issue never happened!), but a guy who has been around 25 years ago will remember this fiasco!

JD has (had) a kit you could bolt onto the top frame of the head; new pockets that allowed the feederhouse "cast bumps" to hook in back behind the header frame rail. This rolled the head forward, but IMO, this kit rolled it too far forward - about 5". You need to only move the top about 2.5".

Here are pictures of my solution, which made both my bean & corn head sit perfect, just like on my older combine, or the newer ones.

I took a piece of 7x7 box (old JD 7000 planter frame!) and cut it to make a 6.5" x 3.5" angle. I put it in the press & bent the long side slightly so it sits flat under the header at the new angle, and flat on top the old feeder. The "cast bumps" are moved 2.5" forward from original. I drilled a couple more bolts in for strength. The vertical sides are 2 1/2" box iron, sliced to taper into the bottom plate. Its hard to see but there is a 2x4 flat plate welded near the bottom that bolts to the original faceplate. It can be unbolted & removed if desired, and interferes with nothing on any head. It was actually really easy to build too.

I did have to readjust my header drivelines, slotting the bearing hangers to get them inline. The JD kit would have required U joint driveshafts, so I consider this a win. The latches had to be adjusted a bit, but that was just adjusted, no mod needed.

As I said, its worked perfectly for me for the last 4 years, no problems, and the heads all sit correctly, just like on the older and newer combines. No head adjustment necessary. I highly recommend this solution over the JD kit, as it works correctly, rather than "too much".
 

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