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Was wondering what guys are using for high pressure penetrating fluid into grease zerks to free up solidified grease and dirt? Even just loosen it up for later greasing. I know there is the ones you hit with a hammer, and yes we have one and they do work but there has to be a better way.
 

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I use the hammer style thing with brake cleaner, if that don't work I remove the zerk, dig as much as possible out and clean with brake cleaner. Then put a new zerk in and grease it like it's going out of style.

If you have a lot of problems with them plugging up you are likely using a grease with a high clay content.
 

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i use a Ac flush canister used for AC systems,fill with brake kleen and screw a grease hose into the threaded hole and put air to it and leave it . After ten minutes if not blown through I take the joint with a hammer and it ususaly goes
 

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I use the hammer style thing with brake cleaner, if that don't work I remove the zerk, dig as much as possible out and clean with brake cleaner. Then put a new zerk in and grease it like it's going out of style.

If you have a lot of problems with them plugging up you are likely using a grease with a high clay content.
X2

I was having issues with this and switched from a moly base grease to a lithium base and my problems with dried out grease all but went away. Turns out it was the clay in the moly grease setting up when the oil gone.
 

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Agreed with using good grease too. I just got a couple of these.
Univer-co
It seems to work well for busting hard zirks using a air greaser. Tried it on the loader on a couple that had a hard time taking grease. It stayed on and the air greaser cleaned them up.
 

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That is a great idea stevie, and while I am at it I will put all my safety guards back on. That is if I can find them.
 

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I have used the ports power pump as well. I usually just screw a hose in as it’s usually 1/8” pipe zerks I have problems with
 

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Agreed with using good grease too. I just got a couple of these.
Univer-co
It seems to work well for busting hard zirks using a air greaser. Tried it on the loader on a couple that had a hard time taking grease. It stayed on and the air greaser cleaned them up.
I have one of those lock on grease couplers and it didn't last very long. IIRC only a couple cartridges and it quit working, the collar would no longer engage. I have also used one of these https://locknlube.com/ and it works very well, just had to take it apart to clean the jaws a couple times (once about every couple hundred cartridges). The only issue with it, and the reason I bought one of the Univer-co ones is that the locknlube is somewhat large and struggles to fit in some tight places. Regarding using "good grease", another important (perhaps even MORE important) consideration when choosing grease is compatibility. When you find a grease you like, stay with it. If you choose to change, make sure that your new grease is compatible with the old grease. I learned this (like most things) the hard way. I was hauling water for my brother and I ran out of grease for the pump (must be greased every load). He gave me a couple tubes of the grease he used and the very first time i tried to grease the pump, I got a couple pumps in and it would not take any more grease (the pump has grease lines about 12-15" long). No matter how hard I tried i could not get the pump to take any grease after that. When I got home, I took the grease lines off and tried to pump grease through them and could not get SANY grease to go through them. I had to boil them in a pot of water and then try and still with much effort, was able to get the grease gun to push the solidified grease out of the lines. The type of grease that I used was not compatible with the type of grease that my brother used even though they were both high quality grease and they somehow reacted with one another. That was the first I had heard of different greases not being compatible. When the grease that I was using (shell....something) became no longer available, before choosing a replacement I checked with shell on compatibility and the one that replaced the one i was using was NOT compatible and, if I wanted to use the new replacement grease i was told I would have to use a different grease that was compatible with both in between to clear out the old before starting the new. I just switched to the compatible one and stayed with it. I guess grease is lime crop chemicals, they are not all tank-mixable and some can have negative chemical reactions if you try.
 

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Awesome, I am done learning for the day. I did not even know or think there could be reactions between different greases. Hopefully the Univer ones last longer than yours did. I was told to make sure the zirk was clean as one guy had the same problem as you. I thought about the lock and lube too, but never got it just because it was so big and looked like a PITA for u joints.
 

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Was wondering what guys are using for high pressure penetrating fluid into grease zerks to free up solidified grease and dirt? Even just loosen it up for later greasing. I know there is the ones you hit with a hammer, and yes we have one and they do work but there has to be a better way.
If you use the one you hit with a hammer, I have discovered that for some reason Thrust penetrating oil works wonders. I think it’s made by castle products or something like that, our local NAPA carries it
 

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i have a hammer type [home made] and the few times that it has been used was with diesel fuel, worked well ... otherwise its peavey mart grease in the guns ...
 

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A lot of times if it's a pin and bushing joint that wont take grease a long hose and a second person to rotate the joint if possible while under pressure will break it loose, sometimes even giving the pin a good smack with a good size hammer (not a claw hammer those are for carpenters......) while under pressure works.
I worked for years at a bobcat dealer and dealt with my fair share of plugged up zerks, never had much luck with the hammer injector style things.
Most of the time I just pulled the zerk and clean the crap out with a dental pick back together and away you go.
The worst is when people install bushings with the grease hole not lined up... well yea they say there's that groove for the grease to go through.... yea right, that's what plugs up.
 

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Hammer style and ATF

When a dealer sold out they had 40 or 50 old Gleaners they wanted to get into "running" condition(in other words not squealing when running) for their auction and that is what their head mechanic said worked best. Then again that is what Gleaner used in the hydraulic systems.

Otherwise it works for me.
 
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