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Hello all I’m told you lads know the Perkins v8 quite well I’ve got a 540 in a slurry pump that’s got a vibration at 1500rpm it clears either side of them revs there’s no smoke to indicate misfiring and the pump drive is a rubber coupling that’s in line
Any ideas much appreciated
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes I did think that is there anything that could cause the engine to vibrate with the pump disconnected?
 

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Anything from missing bolts to a bent or cracked fan will do it, as will a failed balancer. Also check and make sure there is no build up of residue inside any pulleys and such, even the flywheel if it is open to the environment.
Eliminate the simply stuff first.
 

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Hello all I’m told you lads know the Perkins v8 quite well I’ve got a 540 in a slurry pump that’s got a vibration at 1500 rpm it clears either side of them revs there’s no smoke to indicate misfiring and the pump drive is a rubber coupling that’s in line
Any ideas much appreciated
Dave
Well my first question would be what injection pump is on that engine?
The MF tractor that had that 540 engine with the minimec changeover pump were somewhat sensitive to surging a bit at that 1500 rpm.
For that specific pump the tractors used there was some pump adjustment that could be adjusted to help with the surging.
The combine engines also used minimec pump same basic design but with a different governor assembly and those were a little better as far as the surging goes.
My first thought was does it have burnt pistons? That was the most common problem on those 540s the injection pump timing was off and eroded the piston tops and you end up with scored sleeves and broken rings and low compression.
Another problem with those minimec injection pumps was sometimes the pins holding the weights in the governor assembly were riveted and they have been known to come loose occasionally, had an engine run away once in the shop because of it.
I also have seen some of the rubber mounted harmonic balancers at the front pulley deteriorate also on Perkins engines.
I agree with albertabuck start with the simple easy stuff first.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorted it pump was out of line something must of pulled with welding shimmed it up and all runs well now

Is there any other common problems with these engines It should have an easy enough life driving a slurry pump it’s originally out of a aircraft tug
 

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Hello again have you ever come across the minimec pump with a electric fuel stop on it? I need to stop my engine remotely just woundering if there’s something that would do it easily I’ve thought about about a external solenoid pulling the stop lever but it’s just getting something that would work in the confined space
 

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Hello again have you ever come across the minimec pump with a electric fuel stop on it? I need to stop my engine remotely just woundering if there’s something that would do it easily I’ve thought about about a external solenoid pulling the stop lever but it’s just getting something that would work in the confined space
That would be your best option.
There are lots of those external fuel pump solenoids to choose from, here the diesel injection shops can get them.
I never saw any of those engines with electric shut off built into the pump over here, all manual on the minimec injection pumps.
 

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The only electric shut off I know about is the Murphy switch on the fuel supply. It will be activated when the ign. is shut off.

This is on an old MF combine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The only electric shut off I know about is the Murphy switch on the fuel supply. It will be activated when the ign. is shut off.

This is on an old MF combine.
That’s just a cutout valve in the fuel line close to the pump is it? I did think of doing that but woundered how long the engine would run on and how easy it would start again il have to try find a solenoid that will pull the stop lever I think cheers lads
 

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I found a cheap fuel shut off solenoid with pull in and hold in windings on Ebay for a tractor with a Bosch pump, just had to build a bracket, add a return spring, and add the ball and socket linkage that came with the solenoid. Just need to make sure the solenoid is bottoming, and that the pull in winding is only energized when cranking or it will burn out. Could extend the linkage as long as needed to get out of the crowded V, to where there is room to mount the solenoid. May have to rotate the arm, or bolt another bracket to it to get the solenoid pushing(pulling) at the right angle.
 

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I found a cheap fuel shut off solenoid with pull in and hold in windings on Ebay for a tractor with a Bosch pump, just had to build a bracket, add a return spring, and add the ball and socket linkage that came with the solenoid. Just need to make sure the solenoid is bottoming, and that the pull in winding is only energized when cranking or it will burn out. Could extend the linkage as long as needed to get out of the crowded V, to where there is room to mount the solenoid. May have to rotate the arm, or bolt another bracket to it to get the solenoid pushing(pulling) at the right angle.
Yeah I agree, I'm sure there is room because on the tractors with the change over minimec pump the shut off cable is above the intake cross over.
But it kind of depends on what air intake system they used there was a few variations at least in the farm equipment.
Build a bracket and use a linkage rod should work just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I found a cheap fuel shut off solenoid with pull in and hold in windings on Ebay for a tractor with a Bosch pump, just had to build a bracket, add a return spring, and add the ball and socket linkage that came with the solenoid. Just need to make sure the solenoid is bottoming, and that the pull in winding is only energized when cranking or it will burn out. Could extend the linkage as long as needed to get out of the crowded V, to where there is room to mount the solenoid. May have to rotate the arm, or bolt another bracket to it to get the solenoid pushing(pulling) at the right angle.
That sounds ideal I’ve had a look on eBay and can’t see much in the 24v form I need there is some Cummins ones on hear that may do the job ip have to give them a ring
Cheers
 

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Yeah I agree, I'm sure there is room because on the tractors with the change over minimec pump the shut off cable is above the intake cross over.
But it kind of depends on what air intake system they used there was a few variations at least in the farm equipment.
Build a bracket and use a linkage rod should work just fine.
To clarify, that wasn't a V8 perkins, but another oddball diesel. Inline, so there was lots of room to work.
 

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That sounds ideal I’ve had a look on eBay and can’t see much in the 24v form I need there is some Cummins ones on hear that may do the job ip have to give them a ring
Cheers
Should be able to install a resistor in series to bring it back down to 12V, such as the 6V resistor found in the ignition system of older cars( or some combination of them in series or parallel, to achieve 12V). Just install it on the ground side, and it will work for both the hold in and pull in windings. Or if they are cheap enough(mine was), just install a second dummy solenoid not doing anything in series with the first to get exactly half the voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Also got trouble with oil leaking out of the round oil cooler on the side of the engine how are these fastened together is the a o ring that leaks of is it more likely to be split?
 

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Also got trouble with oil leaking out of the round oil cooler on the side of the engine how are these fastened together is the a o ring that leaks of is it more likely to be split?
Most common leak was the 2 pipes going into the engine.
2 orings get hard and gasket.
 
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