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In December I will add pictures and a recipe. The installation is Not yet field tested. There will be NO kit. This unit was custom engineered by a local company whose engineer said it was not that difficult. If you have a newer series machine, I know nothing about them, so bug your Case dealer; the local Case representative said they have been asking management for a kit to fit the newer combines.

The spout automatically goes down at the end of the unload auger out-stroke, goes up as the unload auger returns, utilizes an operator-controlled default position, is controlled by an over-riding toggle switch, and will move downward anytime the unload auger lever is pulled. This 1660 was built in 1987. The question mark reminds me to check the unload auger clean-out door.
 

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Pretty neat. Nice clean installation. I suspect your custom installation would be a fraction of the price that Case would charge for something similar. I've never used a PLC before, but they are rugged and they aren't that expensive. There's definitely a learning curve to programming them.

Our 7240 has the folding spout on it, but the 7230 does not. Sometimes I think it would be nice to add it. It's on my to do some day project list.

Everything is digital on the controls of the 7230 so interfacing would be a bit more complicated. To make it function automatically I'd have to probably watch the canbus for messages about the state of the unloader. Put it on my todo some day.
 

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Thanks for the comment. In the field the spout appears to be working as planned. Once it seemed the spout was not functioning properly, when in reality, it was. The spout was not moving to the horizontal position because I forgot to turn off the auger. About the newer machines: Telling you more than I understand, the control box only needs a sensor to tell the control box when the unload auger is fully extended or has left the fully extended position, and a switch to tell the control box if the unload auger is on. I provided the wire diagram for the 1660, the engineer did the rest. I am guessing the total cost for this adventure will be about $4000.
 

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Pivoting Spout Recipe for Case IH 1660 Combine with IH engine & 179” (long) unload auger


0) The controlling mechanism for this spout is powered by a Programmable Logic Controller and software written by: Prairie Automation; 31196 490 Street; Kasota, Minnesota. 56050; telephone 507-243-4361. This is a small local company.

1) Purchase Case Pivoting Unload Spout Kit 51409389 + an extra Bracket, 47797679.

2) Purchase (1 pair) 12” x 6” Half Bands. I bought these from Distel Grain Systems, Inc.; Le Sueur, Minnesota. 56058; telephone 507-665-6776; they fit perfectly and the paint matched; Part number AP-Auger Part.

3) Purchase spacers from MacMaster-Carr: You may decide to use different spacers depending on whether or not you mount a light bracket as I did. The spacers come in packages of 10, but you can buy whatever you need. Here is the part number for the 3/4” OD x 1/2” length x 5/16” screw size: 92415A125. This will get you to an extensive list of spacers. So whatever combination of spacers you assemble, you will need an inch and a half of spacers on each side to mount a 15” spout onto a 12” tube. The spacers made for the “cleanest” and easiest installation. They did NOT allow grain to escape through the top of the spout.

4) The light brackets are made of 1/4” thick flat iron. Assembled as in the picture, they allow one to remove the M8 x 20 mm carriage bolts that hold on the high capacity boot support, 47449506. A light on each side of the spout eliminates the night shadows, and permits the camera to see grain filling up on the far side of my wagons.

5) Purchase truss-head screws (bolts). MacMaster-Carr has them: A. (6) pieces; 5/16”-18 X 2”; part number 91770A590. This is the exact length needed (use serrated flange, “wizz” nuts) to avoid interference with the High capacity boot support, 47449506. B. (2) pieces 5/16”-18 x 2 1/2”, part number. 91770A594. The very end of the auger requires longer bolts; extra length is not a problem.

6) As per the measurements in the Support Bracket picture, drill new holes. Measure carefully or make a template. As for the existing 3/8” hole, I hammered in a scrap bronze bushing, cut it to width, and drilled it to 21/64”.

7) Remove the old boot, install the left and right hand Support Brackets, and use short truss-head bolts to plug any un-needed holes in the auger tube.

8) To fill the outer most gap between the 12” auger tube and the High capacity boot support, 47449506, I used a piece of old belting from the straw spreader area at the rear of the 1660. This was not easy to cut. Whatever you use, the inside curve of one of the half bands will get you half the pattern. Instead of the rivets provided, I fastened the belting with machine screws. The inner most side of the high capacity boot support, 47449506, was left open in order to remove any debris. At the end of the season, there was a corn cob in there. There were no issues with the boot support being left open at the rear during the fall of 2019.

9) Cut off the triangle top of the extra Bracket, 47797679, and weld the remaining bottom to the underside of one of the half bands to serve as the mounting spot for the bracket, 47797679, that came with the kit. See pictures.

10) Because I was worried about shed door clearance, I cut a full 7” off the width of the Rubber Spout Cover, 47732177, and re-punched the holes! This worked flawlessly throughout the fall of 2019 and likely better matched a 12” unload auger.

11) A Bit of trial and error is needed to set the position of the half bands.

12) If you can figure out how to position, secure, and prevent damage to a second switch or sensor which is needed to know the outer-most stop position of the unload auger, you do not need to replace the front switch (Case 537641R2) on the unload auger or add an extra relay. For me, it was easier and more synchronous to replace the switch. The auger “L” shaped bracket contacted by the the new switch rod, needed to be trimmed on the under side. The new switch (part number AEM2G7120Z11M) and its needed control cable were bought at: Automation Direct; Cumming, Georgia. 30040; telephone: 770-889-7588.

13) The green, super flexible, 7-14 cable (IGUS, part number CF5-05-25-1) can also be found at Automation Direct. I believe we used 35’ with about 3 feet to spare.

14) You must install a switch to let the Control Box know the unload auger is running, otherwise you will flatten the unload auger fighting! The switch I used is the original Case front auger switch, 537641R2. See picture Unload-Running Switch.

15) I think the camera mount would be better if it were made form a thin, flat, chair spring.

16) The Control Box connector (Delphi Weather Pack 5 Pin Sealed Connector Kit 16-14 GA) was found on eBay. You need this connector to get through the new 1 3/8” hole you will cut into the cab floor.

17) The actuator connector and terminals are available at your Case dealer.

18) Cut a 1 3/8” hole 2 5/8” center to center, and in line, in front of the hole that is closest to the back and closest to the outside panel door. There are two layers to go through. A 1” nominal Pipe knock-out punch works fine if you are willing to risk breaking it; otherwise use a hole saw. I used a well-oiled knock-out punch. Case grommet 87107420 will fill the new hole and protect the wires after you push through the Control Box connector (Delphi Weather Pack 5 Pin Sealed Connector Kit 16-14 GA). Lubricate the grommet with silicon and pound it in from the top.

19) To answer your question: In my family of 4, we all like the pivoting spout; including my wife who said it was worth the money.
 

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More images as I hit the file limit on previous post.
 

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