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Auger Clutch

  • No

    Votes: 13 8.9%
  • Yes

    Votes: 133 91.1%

  • Total voters
    146
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Was wondering what this post was about, but now I've read the thread down lower and now I get it!
Two different guys though with two different questions, really.
Fundamentally similar, technically different.
Give me a reefer on this one!
 

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How does the clutch handle situations where you plug the auger (say with fertilizer). With belts I might end up burning them up, but I can at least easily reverse the thing and apply bits of power (at the cost of burning the belt). I'd think a clutch would just stall the engine.
 

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How does the clutch handle situations where you plug the auger (say with fertilizer). With belts I might end up burning them up, but I can at least easily reverse the thing and apply bits of power (at the cost of burning the belt). I'd think a clutch would just stall the engine.
The auger I had with the clutch also had an over-center mechanism.

You'd have to be retarded or hit the wrong dot on the poll to to not want a clutch!
1/17 lol.
I didn't think we were allowed to use that word anymore? A good Liberal would know that.:wink:

Should poll the guys that voted yes right after they blow a gearbox or their clutch wires break off and they have to drop $500+, might be a different result then!

For the record I didn't vote...
 

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Should poll the guys that voted yes right after they blow a gearbox or their clutch wires break off and they have to drop $500+, might be a different result then!
Solider the wires back on the clutch again? Never heard of clutches on thier air carts.

Why would a clutch change the life of the gear box?

If so how is the electric clutch on the unloading auger of your combine still working after engaging it with the engine wide open?
 

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Solider the wires back on the clutch again? Never heard of clutches on thier air carts.

Why would a clutch change the life of the gear box?

If so how is the electric clutch on the unloading auger of your combine still working after engaging it with the engine wide open?
They broke flush with the housing, nothing to work with! I have, they turn at what...50RPM?...not 2600RPM.

Honestly you are trying to convince me that 0 to full bore isn't putting a shock load on the gearbox/chain/shafts/flighting/belts/etc???

I am pretty sure my combine and many others combines have a belt tightener to engage the unload auger. Here is an example you will understand: We had a 1482 combine for many years and I can recall several issues with the electric clutch for the unload auger. Not sure what 1480 had but when we went to 1680/1688 we had ZERO issues with unloader engaging system, worked great to top off trucks and ease that last little bit into the corners.:wink:

I never thought I would be getting into an argument on here about something like this, least of all with you SWFS.:confused:
 

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I would also think the shock of sudden starts is quite hard on a gearbox.

Our combine's unloading auger is a hydraulic clutch pack inside the main PTO gearbox (Case flagship). The newer machine has a secondary belt tightener for the floor augers. In the case of the hydraulic clutch pack, I think it probably engages a bit more gently than the electric clutch on an auger.
 

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Our clutch being a gear box drive end style unit that was supplied by Wheatheart at the time, they dropped supplying those way back and wondered if they are available again if we did ever have an issue because most of what I've seen in later years on augers already set up at CPS for instance was the engine end style.

The only problem I've ever had with this clutch is if its really cold out and engaged the clutch when the auger had no product in it and when turning it back off it didn't release so the auger kept on turning. The remedy was to just give the housing of the clutch a tap with a hammer after I had shut the engine down and it would release. This will only happen when I haven't used the auger for a while as once I am using it and its still cold, no problems of that sort. SWMan, if I would have had the issues you've struggled with on that particular auger, I can see the thrill of engaging it with a full auger dwindle ... I'd still have one but would be more cautious then what I have been.

Only once have I had an issue where the auger became plugged and in that case the engine could be revved right out and hit the switch and it would stall out but its not like this particular clutch just hammers it on too harshly, there seems to be enough give as otherwise it most likely would always stall or just about stall an engine if it was too positive in its engagement.

Also was mentioned about sticking an auger into a flat bottom and augering the end of it in by way of flipping the switch, driving the auger in with the hydraulic wheels and flip the switch off, all with no truck sitting under it. I can see with no clutch system one would have to idle it down some and be ready to make a dive for the over center lever after the end dove into the grain, certainly far less handy.
 

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I don't own one with an electric clutch, but have been loaded by a few that did and I can see it being a useful feature, particularly on larger diameter augers where one is by themselves and simply doesn't have time to get things completely full in one spot and move the truck before it pukes over, which is an issue I don't have with my own smaller augers. One thing I think they should have and that is a switch at the head as well as the one at the bottom. Maybe some do but none of the ones I've been around did.

As for the clutch overloading the drive system, between the slip in the clutch itself, along with the belts stretching/slipping momentarily, it is not what I would call a "shock load". Electric clutches are designed to be used under load at high speed, every one of my combines except my old TR had/has two (feeder and unload) and knock on wood, over all the years, have yet to have one ever fail. Biggest issue I've ever had with one is the unloader on my 1682, that bugger hangs up and won't let go if you run the auger empty, so I keep a short 2X4 shoved in the hitch by the gear box to give it a slap while everything running full bore whenever it won't stop, thats all it takes. Missed once and bent the dam tin side covers lol. Stop it before the auger runs completely empty and all is good. Been that way for years, don't improve, don't get worse, go figure lol. Sucks having to always watch it, but everything checks out mechanically so I live with it.

As for running them at high speed, not many lawn mowers out there without one, nor air conditioner pumps in automotive/industrial apps, all of which for the most part behave themselves quite well in my experience.

I've noticed a lot of newer augers are experiencing gear box failures, and I think this is more related to cheap components than anything, they are simply not up to the task nor have the durability and over build the older higher quality augers had. I have old six inch machines with gear boxes as big or bigger than whats on some of these newer ten inch jobs, no wonder they have problems IMO.
 

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AB is right. Your belts are still taking the shock load. Our augers have a switch on the top but we never use them. In ten years of having electric clutches on our augers, we have only wrecked one gear box and snapped the drive shaft at the top of the auger once. This was on a wheathart auger which is also made lighter then a sakundiak. We always leave the augers full of fertilizer and grain to and engage at full rpm.
 

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They broke flush with the housing, nothing to work with! I have, they turn at what...50RPM?...not 2600RPM.

Honestly you are trying to convince me that 0 to full bore isn't putting a shock load on the gearbox/chain/shafts/flighting/belts/etc???

I am pretty sure my combine and many others combines have a belt tightener to engage the unload auger. Here is an example you will understand: We had a 1482 combine for many years and I can recall several issues with the electric clutch for the unload auger. Not sure what 1480 had but when we went to 1680/1688 we had ZERO issues with unloader engaging system, worked great to top off trucks and ease that last little bit into the corners.:wink:

I never thought I would be getting into an argument on here about something like this, least of all with you SWFS.:confused:
I'm not arguing with you, I am just looking for your reasoning.

The 1480 has the same belt drive on the unloading auger as the 1688, just a cable and a tensioner. Never looked at a 1482 very close so unaware of them having an electric clutch but I would imagine that would be the simplest, too bad the SP machines didn't have an electric clutch (well one that worked in mean) Heck Gleaner has had electric clutches on everything since the stone age.

If the clutch is sized properly ans set up correctly should slip if needed. I can't see why it should eat gearboxes. Besides you don't have to start the auger wide open either so I don't see the problem.

Every extra unneeded part will eventually fail but convenience is often worth the headache ain't it?

I can't wait to have an auger with one, I have got to load from a few Brandt conveyors and I love the clutch but think it would be even better on an auger
 

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I obviously have not looked at the newer clutch control setups as I mounted our lower one ( the one I always use ) onto the tube where a wrap around bracket is for the hydraulic controls, but this Wheatheart mover/clutch kit did come with an upper switch as well and have it mounted on one side at the top of the head. Very rarely have I used it though as its not as if I can reach it in most typical truck/trailer loading situations. Probably the only time I could see it coming into play would be if one was loading grass seed out of a bin and up on the pile ( in a safe manor ... ) tramping and leveling the load and able to switch the auger off if the pile becomes too overwhelming. What I would rather have is a remote control fob in addition to the mechanical toggle switches so where ever I was standing I could hit it on or off, in the bin or what have you. That would work good too as I think of SWF's comment of sitting in the warm and if one was hauling with your own unit and rigged up with radio antenna camera on the auger and display in the truck so that one could see the load building and move where required and shut down the auger ... move to the next trailer if its a super b and also be able to see where to spot the trailer exactly. Fancy toys I realize but for guys that have the setup and volume to haul it could all be useful, just like those I've seen with the same split screen cam screen in their truck and multiple cameras set up on their swing auger and electric swing auger mover to do all the moves from the cab to get lined up in the fall for dumping with a super b unit.

Bingo AB, just what I was thinking when SW mentioned gear box and auger head failures, cheap crap being exported over here, undersized gear boxes to boot if you can imagine and just asking for failures. I wouldn't be surprised if some of those boxes were made for an 8 inch auger and they go and slap them on a 10" just to save a few bucks. Rather then these companies looking over the fence at the other manufactures and seeing if they can cut corners even more then the other guy ... maybe grab a set and step up to make a better product ... not cheaper.
 

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Ours came with a switch at the top and the bottom of the auger. Never used the top one so we moved it by the engine. Start it up flip the switch then throttle it up. Way better then walking to the one end then back or just flipping the clutch on with engine at high idle.

The bottom switch can be reached from inside the bin if needed. I don't see the need for a remote one.
 
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