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I don't like the trapped air in the boom after purging with air. I often use .015 tips and with small tips it seems to take forever to get rid of the air even with air express end caps. At headland by the time nozzles quit pissing out it is time for them to start spraying again.
 

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Well it takes 50 times longer to clear the fresh water out of the boom vs the air to charge it even more so with the tiny nozzles. When I do it I max out the PWM so it’s hitting the boom hard not just at min pressure. I’ve never measured the time but it’s less than 10 seconds for sure.
 

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For flushing on mine I:
-Hook the sprayer trailer to front load
-Close all valves to tank bottom, rinse ball, agitator.
-Re-direct flow from the boom re-circ to the dump line
-Run fresh water through booms until totally flushed
-Then I close the dump line and turn nozzles on, at same time I put tank rinse on and briefly open agitator line to flush and bottom load line to flush.
-While tank is being rinsed I walk around and check nozzle patterns
-Then I open everything and dump rinse water.

Whole process takes less than 10 minutes and is really clean.

Also re-circ boom eliminates air in boom after running tank empty, how many times has someone had air caught in the boom and rate issues...
 

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For flushing on mine I:
-Hook the sprayer trailer to front load
-Close all valves to tank bottom, rinse ball, agitator.
-Re-direct flow from the boom re-circ to the dump line
-Run fresh water through booms until totally flushed
-Then I close the dump line and turn nozzles on, at same time I put tank rinse on and briefly open agitator line to flush and bottom load line to flush.
-While tank is being rinsed I walk around and check nozzle patterns
-Then I open everything and dump rinse water.

Whole process takes less than 10 minutes and is really clean.

Also re-circ boom eliminates air in boom after running tank empty, how many times has someone had air caught in the boom and rate issues...
Not sure I follow all that but each sprayer make/model has different plumbing configuration. Right off the bat though i don't like having to be hooked to the truck to rinse. Right now I can rinse almost all products with what the rinse tank holds (130 gallons +-). There are a few stubborn ones that take more for some reason.
 

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On my old willmar I put ball valves on each end of all the booms and it had a separate hookup for a banjo fitting to the tank rinsers, I would just walk around and open up the ball valves and hook the banjo pump up to the tank rinse and let the tank rinse for a bit then close the drain turn on the pump and run clean water straight through everything for a minute or two then close the ball valves just to flush the nozzle tips and done, was pretty slick could rinse out in a few minutes if you were in a hurry.

I like the idea of those booms like LTK has it sounds similar to the ag shield on my john deere that I use now and it is pretty slick too as the nozzles are the dead end, so just hook up to the tank rinse till the tank drain runs clean then turn on nozzles till they are clean and done, few minutes and your done. I also like the clear plastic flow meters as you can see how quickly the lines flush out.

I am not totally familiar with those recirculating valves yet but cant think of anything much better or faster than a straight through rinse...(from tank rinser to the gravel)

For those with boom ends if you shop around It didn't cost me a hell of alot for those ball valves I put on my old willmar.

I am spoiled by this ag shield a bit as there are so little chemical left in it when I run the tank out that when I flush somewhere the rinsewater doesn't even kill any weeds, he.
 

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I gues like LTK says there are many differrent plumbings and straight through is probably not even possible on some...I have been fortunate the way my last couple can be flushed.

I guess in those cases these new valves may be just the ticket.
 

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looks like I'll be the first to tell you they aren't that great, after currently owning one going on 4 years now I will not be owning another, in approx 300 spray hours, I have had to have welding repairs done twice already, & this is not from abuse.
I think you would be surprised at how little difference in weight there is too, as my machine has been over the scales, & I know of another thats been over same scales, that has a steel boom & his machine is lighter.
 

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looks like I'll be the first to tell you they aren't that great, after currently owning one going on 4 years now I will not be owning another, in approx 300 spray hours, I have had to have welding repairs done twice already, & this is not from abuse.
I think you would be surprised at how little difference in weight there is too, as my machine has been over the scales, & I know of another thats been over same scales, that has a steel boom & his machine is lighter.
The weight difference would depend largely on what you are going from. Again, I can't say about Pommier but with my K&S, my 125' are 300 pound lighter than the stock 100' steel (4830). But put them on a 49XX and you knock off 3000 pounds from the stock 120' booms. Another feature (that I don't have) with the K&S is that the uprights that join the bottom to the top of the boom are bolted with SS saddles rather than welded. My personal booms are the generation just before this and those welds that are now replaced with bolts are the only ones that cracked and had to be rewelded after about 200,000 acres. They ARE slower to lift due to the leverage though.
 

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looks like I'll be the first to tell you they aren't that great, after currently owning one going on 4 years now I will not be owning another, in approx 300 spray hours, I have had to have welding repairs done twice already, & this is not from abuse.
I think you would be surprised at how little difference in weight there is too, as my machine has been over the scales, & I know of another thats been over same scales, that has a steel boom & his machine is lighter.
What sprayer is this on and how wide is the boom?I'm guessing with 300 hours it's only a couple years old?

I looked over my booms pretty close again since I saw this and no sign of cracking that I can see, where should I be watching?
 

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I don't like the trapped air in the boom after purging with air. I often use .015 tips and with small tips it seems to take forever to get rid of the air even with air express end caps. At headland by the time nozzles quit pissing out it is time for them to start spraying again.
I found some little stems that go inside the boom line and into the spray nozzle body. Has a hole on the top to purge the air out. They are just long enough to not fall out of the body. I can't seem to find them now. Fairly cheap and very easy to install.
 
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