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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
new to me 05 2388 w/under 700 sep hrs.

when i got the machine i greased it and looked it over, set it for wheat and started cutting....worked like a dream...would look it over every morning and about half way through i noticed that one the right hand side of machine....the little arm(the lowest and farthest back on RH side) was rubbing just a lil...checked it over real good bc i found out the hard way what metal to metal contact does to the shoe and sieve. its not making any metal to metal contact...no loud noises or bangs but something is going on...it keeps rubbing the paint of as you can tell in the pics...would repaint every morn. to monitor it...ever seen it before?



http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/1476/picture1008medium.jpg
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/9945/picture1009medium.jpg
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/7687/picture1005medium.jpg
 

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To make that happen, there has to be a failure somewhere.
Check all bushes, take the sieves out and check the shoe for cracks etc.
Is that the only spot it grind the paint off?
 

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Have had the same issues as you at about the same hours including broken chaffer sieve. Thought bushes looked O.K but it wasn't until i removed the sieves that i noticed the front lower bushes totally worn out. ended up replacing all the bushes to be on the safe side. Hope that helps
 

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Ok, so you are the one doing the fizcan painting?

Everything probably needs to be reshimmed. Looks like the bushing boss on the arm is too close to the tinwork. If you have a hopper extention like a Mauer or similar, check the clearance with a full hopper. However, I still think the setup needs to be re-aligned with shim relocation.

If these bolts have been lossened or removed in any part of the shaker system, some may not have been tightened properly. I'd check the shoe drive arm pivot bolts. Those are the ones that have a flatbar strap on the outside.

JMOFWIW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the replies...it is the only spot that is grinding off the paint at this point....thought about replacing all bushings...have 1500 acres of beans to cut so i cant afford down time and can not wait to check clearnce w/ hopper full...

doorknob,what is fiz can painting? i did atlest buy a can of IH paint from the dealer.

can u explain the reshimming process? what is the bushing boss? do have a mauer but need problem fixed b4 harvest.

when i went to look at combine...i noticed that it looked like there had been some metal to metal contact on the shaker system...i inquired and they said they had to do some work on the pittman arm? will get some more pics tomm... so yes they have been into the shaker system.

what is "JMOFWIW. ?"
thanks guys
 

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JMOFWIW = Just My Opinion For What It's Worth

fizcan is locally what we call most rattle cans or precharged can of spray paint. Might be a different term for other locations as well.

Reshimming is a long, drawn out, painfull, laborious process. Hopefully someone else will chime in with the instructions as I cant take the time just now. However to get you going, weld a 15/16" socket to a long rod for holding the bolt inside the machine while you loosen the nut on the outside. Remove the problem arm and push both bushings "inward" as in toward the inside of the machine just a little bit. Say 1/4". Get both bushings as close as you can to the same amount you pressed them in. Then reinstall it. This will set the arm outward away from the tinwork some and should stop the contact.

What I call the bushing "boss" is the part of the arm that the bushing is pressed into. I realize this is not the actual, proper term, but it usually gets the point accross when talking combines locally. Perhaps there is another term in your location? In Australia they call a combine a "header".
 

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Shaker shoes on any combine must also be timed or they will self destruct, many are off from factory. Not sure if this has anything to do with your problem should be paid attention to when working on a shoe.
 

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Looks like just the arm casting is touching the body. Two possibilities, there needs to be additional shims added between the arm bushing and the sieve rail or the bushing is installed incorrectly in the arm (pressed in position on arm is incorrect). Have seen both happen before.
I say this because you mention no other problems visible or out of the ordinary contact noises.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
redhat,
will pull screens out next week to inspect...if one of those situations is true...would it start happening all at once, as it did?
thanks for the input, i apprectiate it, unfortunally all of us are new to combines, including our dealer.
 

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I think all you have is a bushing problem, but before you remove screens run combine a little. And while running check screens to see if they are moving from side to side much. If they are I would pull rocker arms off to check shaft, could save you a set of screens.
Just my two cents.
 

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No, if it started all of a sudden then there is likely a bushing or bearing on it's way out. Hope the pivot bearings on the main arms have been greased as required on that machine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i think the previous owners maintained it properly...i grease those fittings every morning...

red, will do what you said...where would i find the rocker arm shafts? will prolly replace all bearings and bushings to be safe.

will start looking into it next week...thanks again guys
 

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kingcotton, would agree with above posts, bushings going out , shoe structure cracked or broke, broken seives, we have a tool to align shoe before we tighen bushings, service manual gives measurement of depth of bushings in all arms and shimming procedure, currently we are replacing top seive with a aftermarket from westward mfg, jamestown, nd, has plastic vanes alot lighter, we are trying this to take some pressure of shoe, oem seives are so darn heavy, good luck, let me know what you find out, scott.
 

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scott what service manuals do you have i just bought some from jensen manuals and talks nothing about the bushings and seives were did you get your manuals. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks scott....will check the service manual if the dealer will let me look at it...they might not even have one as they are in the dark about arms being in center of stroke before you tighten them...might look into buying me a service manual myself.

thanks.
 

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It is always a good investment to know how the machine works/is getting fixed. That could save you heaps of $... Don't let the dealer use your $ without knowing what he's doing!!!
 
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