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Discussion Starter #1
Looked at a 2005 585R.

I've seen some comments that the 2005's are less desirable than later years. What are the issues? How do you tell if it has jet stream? And should that be a deal breaker if it doesn't have it?

Stock recent small grain concave, stock cylinder and impeller. We do lots of very tough straw, are any of the upgrades necessary in these conditions? I remember reading about a knife kit for dividing the crop into the rotors, is that only in specialty crops, or would be beneficial in green stemmed canola etc?

We rarely seem to get over dry conditions, and if we do, the day will still end with over wet conditions, are rotor covers going to be needed.

Not going to be harvesting anything exotic, just wheat, barley, canola mostly.
 

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585 has jetstream Hours -sieves what are you comparing it to ? Claas probably the best tough condition machine compared to none . Rotor covers are used when you have too much material on your sieves ie too dry .
 

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We have a 2005 580 been a great reliable combine would buy another in a heart beat the clearances where the impeller and rotors meet are greater and don’t really give much trouble there
 

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Looked at a 2005 585R.

I remember reading about a knife kit for dividing the crop into the rotors, is that only in specialty crops, or would be beneficial in green stemmed canola etc?

We rarely seem to get over dry conditions, and if we do, the day will still end with over wet conditions, are rotor covers going to be needed.
For green stemmed canola make sure whatever splits crop material in front of the rotors is in good shape.

Rotor covers are very effective in dry canola conditions, the problem is the electric actuated covers of that era are, to be kind, junk.
Jamming of actuators with material an ongoing problem, others here can likely assist on favourable operation.

For operational hints, I would install Sunnybrook ZAPS (Zero degree APS caps) and in tough conditions never run concave over 12 mm.
I have never plugged my machine that couldn’t be unplugged from the seat with these simple changes. By the way, I’m assuming narrow and wide body have the same hydraulic concave suspension? I have never been around a narrow body.
Why the ZAPS/12 mm difference?
A wad will not jam concave hydraulics supports to the bottom, opening the concave, reverse feeder, simply allows restart. Also, the crop material is much looser between APS and APS concave as the -36 degree wedging action is gone.
I do not know or understand why Claas designs it that way and it is unchanged on the new green meany.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses.

I had searched all the threads on combine forum, and there were a couple of references to 2005 year 500's not necessarily being jet stream, is that true? I just looked at the parts book, and both SN ranges for the 585 have the same fan housing (visibly, no parts numbers available), both have the scoop on top.

So the factory nose piece between the rotors will do the job if it isn't worn out? And how do I know if it is worn out?

I looked through the Sunnybrook site yesterday, but they are somewhat short on details. Can you explain what the zero degree APS caps actually are, is that just a different type of wear plate that bolt onto the standard APS cylinder, or changing the cylinder to one with a different (straight)pattern( the factory appears to be a chevron)?


Looking at how much work it would be to install and remove manual rotor covers, and given how rarely we seem to get over dry(or even dry) conditions, Should I even be concerned. Do they keep more pods in the straw, and off the sieve, or just keep them falling towards the rear of the sieves so as not to overload the front where most of the grain is?
 

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I looked through the Sunnybrook site yesterday, but they are somewhat short on details. Can you explain what the zero degree APS caps actually are, is that just a different type of wear plate that bolt onto the standard APS cylinder
Somewhat short on details, IE, nothing.
They just bolt on, remove existing 4 piece install, (cap, bolt, washer, locknut) install what you see below with one flange lock serrated stud bolt.
https://www.thecombineforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=152875&stc=1&d=1563689795
https://www.thecombineforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=152873&stc=1&d=1563689795
https://www.thecombineforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=152875&stc=1&d=1563689795
 

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Discussion Starter #7
More questions.

What is the procedure for unfolding the hopper covers? Book doesn't indicate anything special is required, but it seems to require ( and according to the previous owner) swinging the unload auger in or out first. Then it randomly decides to open, sometimes part way, never quite all the way by itself, needs a small pull to finish. Is something just out of adjustment?

What is the easiest way to access the fingers( wrong name I'm sure) on the rotors. A few have rotated on the bolt and are spun 90 degrees from where they belong.

Need to remove the dash to change some indicator lights, Does the dash just slide backwards after removing the printer, afraid to get too abusive.

My APS just look like short smooth round corner channel irons, barely longer than the finger they mount to( but don't look worn much). Looking at the pictures in the ZAPS thread, none of them look like mine. Are they still compatible with this machine? Do I want to try it as is first, or is this upgrade a prerequisite for our conditions?

I found the Claas post harvest checklist on Combine Forum. Is there anything that needs to be added to that, or more detail? Most on that list seems very generic in nature, was looking for more specifics.

Are owners manuals available anywhere except from the dealer? Looking for a manual for the maxflex header.

Any and all advice that you have learned the hard way is much appreciated.
 

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For the rotor tines or fingers you need to take the grates out. You need to drop the rotor pan at the back - 3 bolts on each side. To remove the back grate you take the side angles off and the rubber flap at the back off. Once you remove the back grate by prying it out, you loosen the bolts for the front ones and then side them out the back. It is a dirty job. I just removed mine to add some key stock on a couple sections of the rotor grates to help with rotor loss. I have APS paddles if you need or you may want to put the new Zaps on. I would for sure take the round little plates off that cover the front of the rotor bearings to clean out the grease, grease, and inspect for metal bearing parts. You get to this from the lower shields in the grain tank.
 

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More questions.

What is the procedure for unfolding the hopper covers? Book doesn't indicate anything special is required, but it seems to require ( and according to the previous owner) swinging the unload auger in or out first. Then it randomly decides to open, sometimes part way, never quite all the way by itself, needs a small pull to finish. Is something just out of adjustment?
On mine you just push the button. If yours doesnt open completely there is a shock on the clean grain auger that helps lift the auger up and with the auger being connected to the hopper id suspect that shock doesnt have any pressure left.

I would also highly recommend the zaps...probably the cheapest upgrade with the most benefit in my opinion.
 

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I would also highly recommend the zaps...probably the cheapest upgrade with the most benefit in my opinion.
For what machine, crops, conditions?
Well hes asking about a 585r which is what i have as well but i think the zaps would be advantageous in any lexion, havesting any crop in any condition... it just feeds the cylinder much smoother... the original aps caps just try spank the crop into the cylinder...
 

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Well hes asking about a 585r which is what i have as well but i think the zaps would be advantageous in any lexion, havesting any crop in any condition... it just feeds the cylinder much smoother... the original aps caps just try spank the crop into the cylinder...
Can Sunnybrook use that as a testimony?!
 

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So by the sounds of it, you bought the machine in question?? Good job!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So by the sounds of it, you bought the machine in question?? Good job!
I may have forgotten to mention that detail. Not so sure if this purchase deserves the Good Job congrats yet or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
On mine you just push the button. If yours doesnt open completely there is a shock on the clean grain auger that helps lift the auger up and with the auger being connected to the hopper id suspect that shock doesnt have any pressure left.

I would also highly recommend the zaps...probably the cheapest upgrade with the most benefit in my opinion.
That is what the book says too. Perhaps swinging the auger just shakes things enough to get it moving.

I removed one end of the gas strut, and it is far too tight to move at all by hand, so I disconnected the linkage that pulls the bubble up auger, and tried it by hand. All the way down, I have to lift the auger with some effort, at mid stroke, if I give it a small push, the cylinder will move it the rest of the way on its own, and at the very top, I have to push it into place, as it drags slightly. Does that sound about right, or should the cylinder be lifting it off the bottom all by itself?
 

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I am going to say the auger could require 20 pounds to lift, with cylinder. Unhook linkage, lower auger, try the button and see if it folds.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am going to say the auger could require 20 pounds to lift, with cylinder. Unhook linkage, lower auger, try the button and see if it folds.
Will do.
 

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While you have your bubble up auger unhooked check the flighting at the bottom. I usually build them up in place with my little mig after I turn the battery disconnects off. I would also take the breather off the bubble up gear box when you are there and see if there is any oil or grease in there. I just add a combination of grease and gear oil in there if needed.

With your conditions JVW you should consider putting in a sunny brook impeller and tm6 top sieve. They are a big help with canola and the impeller will save you a lot of grief in tough canola. If you yank out the impeller build up a bigger v at the back of the concave and weld in a knife on the dogs tongue at the back of the impeller to help spit stuff going into the rotor. One of the biggest problems is splitting the crop to feed the rotors at the area of the impeller.
 
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