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Discussion Starter #41
The hybrid Lexion has several pans that shake back and forth. They seem to not be perfectly balanced, as the machine rocks back and forth when engaged at idle. This is normal, but not ideal. At full throttle, it seems less noticeable, and while harvesting, I really can't tell.


What header are you using? It needs to be calibrated if you expect the auto height to work. On a 2011 740, raise header, lower header, raise header, lower header, done. You do this manually via joystick. I have found that blocking the bottom of the feederhouse, so it doesn't mash the header into the ground results in a better performing calibration. When you calibrate, you only want the height sensor to become fully depressed when lowered, and no farther. When you raise, you don't want the height sensor to float around (macdon, or any other header that can be set too light).

If you have a macdon set light for the conditions, you can temporarily make it heavier to do a good calibration. Two things, turn it off with crop on it, unhook pto, then calibrate. The weight of the crop can help it not float around as you raise and lower header during calibration. I also don't like to calibrate with the header running, as it is distracting and unpleasant to run a header while mashing it into the ground, especially if you can't block the bottom of the feederhouse.
Secondly, extend the reel forward can also make it heavier then it typically is, also helping.
I'm using F540 maxflex. In rigid mode so far, since the crop is still somewhat standing.

So Go into header settings, set height limits( I forget the exact words), the book says to follow the instructions on the screen, which says Header Up. Not matter what I do, it comes back with Too Soon Released Key. I assume that is the calibration you are referring to? Does header height rely on the feeder house angle sensor, or the sensor arms dragging on the ground?

What I want it for, is so I can switch between standing, and flat crop with a single button push each time.
 

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If you don't have some type of wands or float sensor for the cutterbar, I don't think you can calibrate, especially if it is locked in rigid mode. (someone correct me if I am wrong) It might be possible to calibrate using the hydraulic pressure sensor (correct me if i'm wrong) and the height would automatically adjust based on hydraulic pressure.


To calibrate, hold the raise button until it says to lower. It sounds like you are in the right menu.
 

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Are you continuing to hold the button up or down even when the header is fully up or down until the display tells you to go the other direction? You must push the button fully in each direction also not just the slow setting.
 

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From your questions post on page 3 about the bubble up auger and hopper extensions not working you are correct in assuming that there needs to be a valve that closes to create pressure in the open circuit at same time as the valve to the hopper unfold valve is open. My experience is on a 480 but the valve is known a Y77 valve and is part of the hydraulic valves located left side and on the side cover support about straight below the left rear corner of the hopper. It should close automatically when any function button is pushed. IIRC there are 22?? Functions that require this valve to block the flow of oil returning to tank in order to have pressure. There is nothing wrong with doing what you have found to work, holding another function like unloading auger swing button. There may be a poor contact somewhere or a module not activating the Y77 valve. Good luck with your new to you Lexion and I hope you get to use it some more!
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Are you continuing to hold the button up or down even when the header is fully up or down until the display tells you to go the other direction? You must push the button fully in each direction also not just the slow setting.
Yes, tried holding it long after the header was fully up, never did time out, or change messages.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
If you don't have some type of wands or float sensor for the cutterbar, I don't think you can calibrate, especially if it is locked in rigid mode. (someone correct me if I am wrong) It might be possible to calibrate using the hydraulic pressure sensor (correct me if i'm wrong) and the height would automatically adjust based on hydraulic pressure.


To calibrate, hold the raise button until it says to lower. It sounds like you are in the right menu.
The maxflex has two wands with a potentiometer on each end, and they work fine in contour mode.

I was assuming that header height would work like it did on the 8460's and measure relative to the machine, rather than measure constant to the ground, and that the wands would just be for tilting the header laterally.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
How difficult is it to remove the grain pan on this 585? Still need to properly weld the transmission brackets back together. And from the top looks like the easiest way. Or am I dreaming to think there would be enough room below the concave to get in there?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I was in a mad rush to get it glued back in last fall, I remembered there being removable pans from reading the book previously, so I had a quick look at the book and opened the rock trap, but didn't see anything that was meant to be removed on short notice, so didn't waste anymore time. Haven't looked since, I must have overlooked the pans, or do not all models have that?
 

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There are four plastic pan/trays that slide forward when the hinged door under the rock trap is unbolted and folded down. Wide bodies might have five trays? After folding down the three bolt door below rock trap, they can slide forward. Be prepared for them to require a very hard pull if they haven't been out in a while. Vice grips and ratchet strap might be necessary.
 

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If you crawl behind the front axle and look up you should see the black corrugated plastic pans. They can be a beast to get out like Seedcleaner said if they have not been taken out in a while. It may take 2-3 people pulling on them to get them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
That may explain it. I didn't have time to mess around when I first looked. Will go take another look.
 

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I assume they had these plastic pans in right at the start of the 500 series. You will know once you climb under and look. It will still be a very difficult spot to work in. We burn off the wiring on top of the transmission this fall do to our brakes not releasing and that was not a fun job to fix.
 
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