[mattalx]

We rang in the new year Gleaning. Well at least the R72 got to. I managed to cut almost 5' before I heard the thresher door pop open with a loud bang. I somehow picked up a sledge hammer head in the field. Of course it's a task to shut it anyway but we fought and fought with it and couldn't get it closed, it was acting as though there was trash keeping it from closing far enough to latch but its perfectly clear. I finally let the concave down and saw that one corner is not quite closing ( I took the best picture I could of it) is it possible for the door to get bent? It seems awfully heavy for that to happen. If so how do I take it out to fix? Or should I just start calling scrap yards?

Pic won't upload from my phone. Going to add it when I get to the computer

 

[tbk]

I don't know exactly how much heavier a 62 door is than a 50, but I'd say ya sure they get bent. When I rebuilt the concave frame and grate last spring I had to take the door off and such to get the old concave frame out. My door was bent quite a bit. I ended up taking it to a hydraulic press in order to bring all the surfaces back true. The door swings quite freely now, without any binding.

To get it out isn't a real hard job. There's pins that go through the hinge barrels that are mounted/bolted to the door. The hinges are held in the barrels by allen head screws, about 3 or 4 per pin.

Once you've got the screws out you'll likely have to open the processor doors and use a mallet to drive the pins out. Here's where you might need an extra set of hands to catch the door and either guide it out the bottom or out the right side of the machine. Be careful because the door and the concave frame hinge/swing at the same point.

 

[tbk]

If you get a chance go to parts books. Pull up the page that has the assembly and you'll see pretty clearly how this outfit comes together and comes apart.

 

[Gleanerforlife]

I had the same kinda thing happen a few year ago, on my new to me 52. there was anything on the door, and a rock got just into the concave, and push it down in one spot. I was able to warm up that spot and use a air hammer with a flat bit and get it worked up so the door would close. I have since put the bar on the door. well it hasn't popped since. I have been wondering if the hump kit would be better than the bar. Can anyone give me some advise?

 

[nddan]

Yea if the foreign object knocked the cross brace the holds the chrome wear strip just behind the door it can get bent down. If it gets bent down the door will not fit up flush all the way accross. If it does not fit up flush the latch will bottom against adjustable latch plate. If you are harvesting large seed crop you could likely just let the latch plate down and get it latched again. I have seen very few doors get bent. I have allways said if you are sure to pick rocks you should have sump in place of door. I like the hump for all other cases. I think the 1"X1" bar is effective but think it can restrict normal flow and door open with a normal slug of crop. I know the door was a PIA for some operaters due to crop opening it but it was a good indicater of crop flow problems. Could be what header was feeding it or bad helicals or the pattern of helicals on thresher side. With the steep helicals and the proper size filler over corner of feeder to support helical the problems were non existant. I wish we still had a humped door with the sump option.

 

[mattalx]

Nddan, I loosened the latch springs all of the way off but it still won't latch if that's what you're referencing. I also tried loosening the 4 bolts that hold the latch on, when that didn't work I took the latch off and noticed a small buggered spot that I'm going to grind off in the morning. I'm to the point that I may just let the 62 be done for the season and finish with the 72 since we're in the home stretch and just tinker on it in the spring when it warms up, maybe pull the door and concave


Also finally got the pic to load, this is with the concave let down viewing from the rotor compartment

 

[ACM]

Remove the rock door and install a rock trap, it is very easy to open and close and it is not affected by the bent lip edge the rock door closes on. Just make sure you dump it every day in fields where you have rocks.

 

[amos]

only have experience with the 50 and 52 size machines. I now only run a hump on the door, best I have found. If you do not have stone problems you will hate a stone trap, or sump as some are calling it. You must empty it at least once a day or you will have feeding problems, especially in corn for me, and if you ever pick up a **** or skunk, well lets just say you'll clean them out of the stone trap later...one morning after combining late the night before near a large bush tract I emptied out three **** carcasses...not pleasant job.

When you take the door hinge pins out you want some strong body or I use a 2x4 vice gripped to the frame under the door to support the door for removal. If you add a hump to the door and then go to put it in, it weighs twice as much. Eat your Wheaties before starting to put it in place...