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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought an R62 this machine is revolutionary compared to our L. Would just like to know what to look for. Noticed some wheat around the shoe on the sides of the combine. Wheat was not getting from the header into the feeder house to well but I think thats because we need to add some links and bring the front drum forwards.
 

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I know how you feel because we made the same exact transition from an L to the R series. Look at your rotor bars, concave, and very importantly, your accelerator rollers. Those three are the main three things in my opinion, some other things might be to check and see how good of shape your grain elevators are in, the inside wall of these is known to wear out once the chain, paddles, and sprockets all get worn enough. I know from experience (the hard way) to check under the combine and look at the feeder chain floor, when we were new to the R series we didn't check the floor on the R62 and after we had got it home and was getting it ready discovered that some very huge rocks had been picked up into the combine when it was traded in which caused alot of damage to the floor, and also broke the rear feeder chain and bent the bars in several places. Even after fixing all that there is no regrets, you will love your 62, they are a very good machine, and after being used to an L you will love how much capacity it has!
 

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On the shoe check the rubber seals and blocks on the sides to make sure it isnt moving around too much
Is the header rusty or the feeder house if so it may take a day or so to get to shine up again before it will feed better, unless the slats are worn real bad or something
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
We used a flapper wheel on the header floor and cleaned it up. We are planning to scoot the front feeder drum out a link. It has a 700 header instead of a 400. The feeder chain seems a long ways away from the auger and header floor. The pacer on the combine keeps telling me faster but it just wont get fed in there fast enough. I get a whole wad of crap that wads up and around and spits back into the head. Combine is in great shape all the stuff you guys said checks out. Just need to get it to feed from header to feeder house.
 

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How does the floor of the feeder house look it might not be slicked up yet to let everything flow good, how many days have you run it so far? My N took a couple of days to shine up when I got it.
 

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sounds like the rear portion of the feederhouse floor may be worn thru--right ahead of the pivot shaft ??we had this happen on our 62 ;caused feeding to be as you described. real hard to see --it is under the sealing flap under the throat. causes flow to bunch and roll around chain and out the front .put Dan Hurtt's kit in and solved problem . one day to fix and cheap as well. well worth the time& money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Floor is nice and slick and I dont think its worn through back there. Where do you find that kit??? Think the speed is on high if youll tell me how to check for sure. Kind of feel blown away by the combine. Does one drive control the speed of both feeder chains??? It has the after market chain that has solid bars across. It seems like the header is feeding the feeder house in bunches instead of a nice steady flow. Like its building up between the auger and feeder drum and the feeder chains are not grabbing it. Then they grab it all the sudden and it cant handle the huge bundle at once. I am going to try and add two half links to each chain and see if that helps us.
 

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Im guessing your header is not shined up good enough yet because I had the same exact problem, there was about an inch of rust on the header floor from sitting in north dakota outside all winter, even after using a steel brush it would still have problems, the header would just bunch up and bunch up more and more wheat, meanwhile it seemed like you weren't getting anything into the combine until all of a sudden a big huge mass of wheat would go in and just about plug the combine. After about 1 and a half days of fighting that it finally got to where it would start feeding and getting a steady flow into the feederhouse. Never had the problem since the first couple days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
which size pulley does the belt run on for being fast or slow feeder chains??? Right now it is on the small one.
 

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Larger pulley on front and smaller one over top of axle. Bring chain ahead as far as possible but not so far as to hit stripper channel behind auger or the flighting (remember chain and drum moves ahead as chain self tentions forward). May need to move location of eyebolt that spring is pulling on so that you don't lose self tentioning (I believe there is a total of four holes to choose from depending on year of machine). Hopefully the four inch tall extention flighting are in place (they bolt onto the seven inch and extend into the finger area to help prevent straw from ever stalling). I have heard reports that adjusting fingers from far right side of header can make alot of difference in some conditions but normally I find middle position is fine if everything else is right (make sure not to adjust finger so they can get into floor of header). Adjust filler on bottom of floor inbetween header and feeder so there is no pocket (the stainless filler is held secure with a bunch of torques pan head screws and is slotted to allow movement (you may not see the slots for they could be hidden by the pan under auger). Otherwise if material is getting up feeder well to second chain but not making the transition you best check out the floor mod kit I have. Other tips about making sure rear chain is set to specs is important and I go a little tighter than specs to about 4.9" of spring length. I don't know about a jobber chain. Gleaner used a one piece slat in '96 and maybe into '97. Them chains were just find as long as the shock kits were installed (still have some running after nearly 15 years). Any idea on brand of jobber chain with single slats and are they knotched all the way accross slat? What makes you think jobber chain? Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay I cut a little bit more today and now I know what is happening. The crop mat it not going around the feeder and back out. It is bunching up between the feeder and auger in the header and not getting sucked in by the feeder chains. Then as more crop comes in it fills up that little area and dumps a wad over the auger and then over the reel. Guy who sold it to me said he liked 400 header much better then 700 header.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you for all the advice. We will adjust the fingers and the chain is a manchester chain. Do I have to change the whole chain or can I just change the slats.
 

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Go get a feeder chain with Gleaner style u channel bars and go cut wheat. Manchester style bars will not feed some variaties of wheat. Bought a N6 with manchester chain 4 MPH in 30 bu prarrie red wheat. pulled the chain out of my out of service and put in N6. 6 MPH and no stopping to let the reel throw out a pickup load of wheat traped between reel and auger. N7 Manchester style slats 36 foot macdon plugged center belt on macdon when you pushed it. Put macdon on other N7 with gleaner style slats and cut about 500 acres and never plugged center belt. Abaliene machiene says they cant get gleaner style slats any more. Got one from Shoup. By the way I adjusted enery thing I could think of on N6 including adding links and moving drum out and nothing helped.
 

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I put Loewen force feed chains in my N7. They had small notches in front and a tail in the back of the slat and they WOULD NOT FEED! I put old front chain back in and it fed perfect in front, but still uneven going into rotor. Replaced rear chain with Gleaner and everything was great. No other changes or adjustments were made and the chains were adjusted exactly the same. I'm not against aftermarket chains, just make sure they have the same style slats as Gleaner.
 
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