The best set-up for us is NO reverse bars, all forwards keep the mat thin. then add nine sweeps and you will be amazed, way less rotor loss in wheat and beans, corn I'm going to start out with same set-up and see what happens, thinking it will work by keeping mat thin and tumblig the shucks for better separation. In less than 2 weeks I'll let you no if it works.
r66 mods?
New to us 2011 r-66 everything appears to be stock. I am pulling rotor as I noticed inside chopper blades are shot and outsides show no wear. I was going to move two bars to extend out to stop sign. As for reverse bars do I just remove them or install forward bars in there place.
Corn, soybeans, some wheat. I am concerned with removing separator reverse bars that I will have rotor loss as I was never happy with our r65.
Corn, soybeans, some wheat. I am concerned with removing separator reverse bars that I will have rotor loss as I was never happy with our r65.
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What sweeps are you getting? Do you leave in knives (or fins) on the rotor? Just wondering what has all changed in last 5 yrs of mods.
Does anyone turn chopper knives around or just replace them all?
No one really talks about extending 2 rasp bars to the stop sign but I have noticed a much more even wear on the chopper knives, got to be better I would guess.
How about putting in a straight helical at the bottom end of separator grate?
Is it worth cutting out the grate under chopper and installing flat floor? I have never seen this as an advantage.
How about shims under rasp bars or under helicals. On our 65 I installed the 1/2" shims under thresher side and thought it helped?
Sorry for so may questions as I kinda feel like my 5 yr old.
Does anyone turn chopper knives around or just replace them all?
No one really talks about extending 2 rasp bars to the stop sign but I have noticed a much more even wear on the chopper knives, got to be better I would guess.
How about putting in a straight helical at the bottom end of separator grate?
Is it worth cutting out the grate under chopper and installing flat floor? I have never seen this as an advantage.
How about shims under rasp bars or under helicals. On our 65 I installed the 1/2" shims under thresher side and thought it helped?
Sorry for so may questions as I kinda feel like my 5 yr old.
I did shim all bars 1/2 And it did help, the sweeps, radono chopper, chopper speed up kit, they all help with through-put and grain loss. Plus the dyna flex feeds it really smooth and that is really what a rotor likes. You can order the sweeps through your dealer, sunnybrook makes them for Agco, all of this was done to a 2010 R76.
Talked to my dealer today and they said remove thresher reverse bars and install forward, leave separator reverse alone. Cut off 3 discharge paddles. No sweeps, no shims, nothing else. Not sure I agree however I know it will work with any configuration it just depends on what your (my) standards are.
Only part of that advice I'd ignore is the reverse bars on the seperator, their only use is for a doorstop.
gleaner r76
I have a r76 2009 with cdf im putting sweep on the rotor and fast pitch helical doing only small grain do you think is better to shim the bar
I have a r76 2009 with cdf im putting sweep on the rotor and fast pitch helical doing only small grain do you think is better to shim the bar
You will like it way better with the bar spacers. It will flow the straw better, especially with the sweeps, thinner crop mat = less rotor loss.
What i need for shim the bar 1/2 inch
I cut and drilled the holes for mine. You need 1/2 flat bar 2 inches wide, cut to right length, drill 1/2 holes, place between bars. Agco has a part no. also but are very pricey. Made mine for 1/3 the price, but you have to work for it.
Or final setup in our area with good selection of crops and conditions is: shim all rotor bars with 1/4"x2.25" flat bar. Shim steep helical by 1/4". Late 76 and 66 had factory installed steep thresher helicals. Be sure to cut triangle over feeder forward 2" and angle toward top of triangle to provide feed to get under triangle and get to concave with no restriction. Add helical to top helical nearest discharge to convey straw half way into area just ahead of discharge. Don't mind idea of extending rotor bars into area ahead of discharge but we accomplish about the same thing by extending knife mount far enough to get a sweep to deliver straw further into that area. Sweeps are mandatory in my opinion. With sweeps you should take the time to put exact weight 1/2 way around rotor at the same spinning location. This will keep rotor in same dynamic balance as the last way it was balanced. I found this weight deal extremely important with the new 30" rotors and wasn't near as noticable with the 24 or25" rotors. Forgot to mention to extend helical across feeder filler triangle and helical shims can be purchased from fairbanks international hastings nebraska
gleaner r76 or ndann
With sunnybrook sweep on cdf do you remove one paddle out of two at the discharge end this is for a r76 with shim bar
Thanks
With sunnybrook sweep on cdf do you remove one paddle out of two at the discharge end this is for a r76 with shim bar
Thanks
What are the sweeps going to do for me? I don't know of any dealer in Nebraska that can tell me it will work for corn and soybeans. I like the concept but don't want to spend a grand if it won't do anything for me.
Sweeps help either dry straw or tough straw flow better. Especially good for tough or hard to convey straw. Helicals work to prevent crop from moving to fast just like they aid the rasp bars to keep material moving toward discharge
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