The Combine Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I combine dryland corn and beans some small grain. Combine needs to go to dealer for fall checkup. What mods should I put in, it has a CDF rotor with 4 reverse bars. Had a lot of trouble with feeder plugging in beans, when reversed out there was just a small pile of stems not that big. Stems wanting to push up the upper inspection door on feeder house. Blocks set for corn. Everything looks to be standard set up from the factory. I have gone threw the past 5 years of posts and just would like to know what would be the best thing to do. Had an R62 and had all mods that NDDAN said to put on and it worked a lot better than this R76. Should I stagger bars, no reverse bars, put in sweeps and how many or just the smaller mod. impeller sweeps, take out knifes, remove slats in feeder chains, back and or front. What helical set up should I use. Their are just too many options to try and after working with the R62 I would like to do most of them now not just a few of them each year, because when you get your combine set up right it is such a pleasure to run. Is there somewhere that has all these modifications wrote down, I went to the hypermod page and they only had info on R62,'s and older. I know there has to be R76 combines out there that run faster than 2 mph. with a 30 foot head. Sorry for the long post
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
I had a 2010 76 that was a beast, never ran it stock and wouldn't even want to try. It had cdf rotor, fast pitch helicals, all bars shimmed 1/2 inch, NO REVERSE BARS, 9 sweeps, radono chopper, chopper speed up kit, . Ran 40 ft. dynaflex and could run off and leave deere and case class 7 combines. It probably could hold it's own with a class 10. Also I cut the triangle piece of iron on the left side at rear of back feed chain that would restrict crop flow, never, ever plugged the feeder in 3 seasons. It was a very impressive machine. My S78 was a whimp until I took out reverse bars and added sweeps. It's even better than the 76!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
What is your main hold up? Feeding, power, or grain loss? A stock R76 should run pretty healthy, but guys like gleaner-r76 have figured out how to make them really hammer down. My best advice is to evaluate the header situation on the front, and then work back through the combine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
I've got a 62 with cdf and run similar setup as others have said. Some difference I have is a quarter inch shim under steep helical and cylinder bars instead of the half inch shim on cylinder bars. Seems to help helical move material better. Installed sweeps this past season and they worked great. In corn I did put in two long reverse bars on discharge end without the shim. Helps with just enough agitation to cut lose and not use much power. When moving to beans simply swap bars back to forward bars and still left shims off those two. Not sure about the discharge paddle in newer 76 but on mine I took them to a shop with good metal break and put a bend in them above bolts to make them stand up straighter. Now for the feed drums, I let them have as much float as they can. Make sure you have the 7 inch drums instead of 8 inch. Make sure head is feeding evenly or nothing else will matter much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
pgagon change the torque limiter to what a heavier model from a different combine? I already put a new slip clutch in for the feeder house just because it was slipping a 100 plus times a day. Removing the slats from feeder chain. Do you do both front and back chains? Right now this is where my problem is. My left side of my header the material seems to stop for a split second when moving towards the combine. 3 seconds later I am plugged. I moved the auger closer to the back of head and lowered it to the floor. Helped some but still not right. Was wondering if moving it forward would be a better option?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
The ratchet clutch are from a s77 2013 . yes remove the slat on both chain. As for the header be certain that you have the flighting extension in the middle like ndan said in this topic post " 4200 headers". You can also close 2-3 inch each side of your header opening to not feed on the sprocket but more on the middle of feeder house. You can also made the modification at the rear end floor of the front feeder. Cut 3 inch and lowering the floor by 3\4 ask to nndan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The dealer told me the floor mod was done at the factory standard for 2010 model. Is this 3/4 inch lowering in addition to what was already done. On my R62 that I traded off when we did the floor mod it made a whole lot better. This R76 is acting like my R62 did before I did the floor mod.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
I prefer the standard 8 bar rotor. I have two complete sets of sweeps all forward bars. Every other bar is extended into discharge. Steep pitch helicalls over concave per nddan design. When my machine goes into dan's shop it will get slip clutch upgrade and lowered floor put in. Yes, Dan is lowering the floor more than the factory lowered floor. When I inquired with him he said there is a remarkable improvement. My lowered floor r72 feeds better than my factory r76 does. I spend time getting the heads to feed well, depending what head you have on the 8000 and older heads Dan adds another angle iron stripper. I'm running a 35' 8200 and can cut 40 bushel beans at 5.5-5.8mph. Basically as fast as the sickle will clean cut. I am usually power limited in spring wheat. Loss levels are near nonexistent in spring wheat and through put is very good. I can run with class 8&9 competitor machines and burn less fuel per acre. 50hp more would be nice in heavy green straw conditions. I'd like to run with a s88 machine and see how much of a difference there is. Oh, I switched my accelerator rolls to stainless steel ones, two seasons and virtually no wear compared to replacing stock ones every other year. Grain damage is a non issue. I've had the pleasure to cut over 240 acres of beans in a single day with one machine. I've had a couple of issues with my r76 being I replaced the alternator, found on Internet $500 cheaper than dealer and I had the starter rebuilt as the sprocket was wearing and not engaging. I would love to find another r76 to replace my oldest machine a r7.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,276 Posts
Good info here. Be sure not to miss the note on cutting some of that oversize fille over feeder opening. That was a nightmare when factory put oversize in there. Front Floor would be factory lowered but needs to be cut three inches shorter like we did. If i did a R76 today I would cut off the three inches and tilt it an additional inch like we are doing to the super series. Super series are allready an inch shorter than your R76 but could be 2" shorter yet. It is all about giving feeder more room and allowing straw to drop away from front feed to enter rear feed down low. This all was complicated when the combines got taller and taller. This changed the angle of feeder to cut at same height.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
nddan do you sell a kit for the R76 feeder house lowering? Or a step by step plan I can give to my dealer so he can do this mod?
The part you are talking about trimming out. Is that the triangle put in to support helical over feeder house? Or is there more to trim on the bottom side, can you see it when rock door is openned? Thanks nndan and everyone else for your input on this forum board.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,276 Posts
I don't sell kit for tilting and shortening rear of front floor for the R76 and newer machines. You don't really need one. What you do is cut both sides of feeder floor loose so you can tilt dow 1" at rear. This will give you the same clearance from poly skids to floor all the way back eliminating tight spot and delivering straw to front of rear chain at better angle. On R76 we cut 3" off back of floor and 2" off S series. This allows straw to drop off front feed sooner and get under rear feed at a better angle also. This job became more nessesary as we put taller tires on and then raised frames higher. As we did this it hurt the angle between the feeders. If a guy is worried about the gap at left and right side of feeder with feeder lifted all the way you could easily fill this in.
As far as triangle over feeder on the R76 you can look up the feeder and follow left side to back. You will see where the straw will run into the triangle that helical is fastened to. You will need to cut it 2" forward then angle cut over to where triangle starts. You will need to reposition helical when doing this and you want the helcal on there. Before installing these helical triangle fillers we would pop the trap door open with heavy flow too easily. Rock sump would decoy this problem and you would not know it exists. This over size triangle might be installed on earlier machines if someone installed the Gleaner built helical extention kit. The kit I had Loewen build were right although the latest ones need a little tuning to fit down flush.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top