[Price]

2012 760tt...
1. The two speed power rear axle, shut it off for road transport, how about in the field high or low? Is there some kinda basic speed guide lines?
2. Going to install cb radio where is the best location? I see the knockout to the right of the radio, with power I assume and a fm radio antenna it looks like? Seed cleaner I read an old thread of yours on it, did anything ever come of it? Otherwise I'm going right/behind the seat, and run my own cable and steal power from 12v outlets there.
3. Is there any cold weather kits? I have the block heater, but any ether/starting fluid or glow plugs?
4. Pulled it out of storage the other day to move it to the shop to go through it. Started it up and got a warning something about brakes pressure test time exceeded? Would only move about 0.1 mph. Looked in operator Manuel and it said apply brakes firmly and also went into how to test the system. Restarted it apply brakes, got nothing... Call butler service department the guy was completely lost and just offer to send a truck up (on my dime)...I then Restarted again and hammered the brakes to the floor and it beep...I cleared the code and it worked fine. Is this normal? How often does it happen book made it sound like ever 20 hours, is it going to just slow down like that ever 20 hours no matter what?

Note: I have browsed/read the Manuels and went back and looked for these answers in the books. With no help, not that there not in there but I did see it.

Thanks

 

[mbfarmer]

As far As I know block heater is it.

I run rwa in high in field when I need it. Usually I don't use it at all. Low speed only if stuck.

The brake thing is pretty normal. It won't do it mid day only when machine is first started. A pia but you'll get used to it.

 

[handic]

Have to agree with MB on the rear wheel drive, only run it when needed.
On the brakes, that is the norm on the 700 series, its a European requirement because of so much road time, its simply a way of knowing your brakes are working properly, your screen should have told you how many times to depress the brake pedal, I would be concerned that your dealership had no idea what your issue was.
I'm not sure about glow plugs, if like the 400 and 500 series then you turn the key and hold in the position just before start, that should be glow plugs.

 

[w-mFarms]

some guys say the rwa will help with turning on the headlands, is that true or not?

 

[Don Boles]

some guys say the rwa will help with turning on the headlands, is that true or not?

If you don't use the wheel brake anyway, no.
If you do, yes, as the hydraulics are forced.
Quite a few Claas track units now are sold without 4WD.

 

[Price]

I seen in the book today under lights and it shows a picture of ignition switch with 4 positions.... 1 =off. 2= accessories. 3= Diesel engine preheat 4= start. Does anybody know anything about that? Is that only certain engines but all combines get same switch or does the c13 have some sort of glow plugs or grid heater?

I'm also in the process of switching round bar main concave for a hhs concave. Got the feeder house off...that's an excellent design. From there what PITA! Got as far as preconcave out last night, tackle the main concave today. Any pointer u guys learned The hard way for installing and squaring up new concave?

 

[Transaxial]

I seen in the book today under lights and it shows a picture of ignition switch with 4 positions.... 1 =off. 2= accessories. 3= Diesel engine preheat 4= start. Does anybody know anything about that? Is that only certain engines but all combines get same switch or does the c13 have some sort of glow plugs or grid heater?

I'm also in the process of switching round bar main concave for a hhs concave. Got the feeder house off...that's an excellent design. From there what PITA! Got as far as preconcave out last night, tackle the main concave today. Any pointer u guys learned The hard way for installing and squaring up new concave?

X2! Changing concaves is a big job. There were some threads on this forum that talked about changing with the APS, cylinder and impeller in I think. I had the concave out of my 480 and took APS and impeller out and dropped the grain pan. It was still tight to rotate the concave forward and up around the cylinder until it is free to come out the front. Someone suggested chaining the concave to the cylinder to rotate it forward and up. Seemed like a good idea but I did not do it that way. Good Luck! Let us know how you do it.

 

[seedcleaner]

I mounted my cb to the top of the lower right fuse panel lid. Simple to do but somewhat of a pain to remove the lid because of the cb now. I got power from the Claas 12 volt plug in the back of the cab. Your dealer should have an adapter with two wires you can tie into. Doing it again, I would mount the cb on the post the cup holder is attached to. I never did install the CB up by the radio.

Rear axle engaged helps turning, even without brakes IMO.

My 2011 740 with C9 has a grid heater. Don't remember if its activated with key just on or in the spring loaded position. Does not have a block heater installed.

http://www.thecombineforum.com/forums/12-claas-lexion/200730-tips-removing-concave-585r.html

 

[Price]

Thanks for the link, I was actually just trying to find thread again. On that thread you talk about removing two speed gearbox bolts so the cylinder spins freely. Which bolts are these? I have never even ran this combine so...Im a bit lost on this combine yet just trying to fully understand everything on it. Seems the best way for me to learn is to tear it apart right away and see the insides lol. I have the shop/service manuels and they want you to remove everything to change the concave...which I don't plan on doing. Also to free wheel the cylinder they want you to remove the variable speed belt.... Which to do you are suppose to have variable speed set to slowest speed....which it isnt and the machine is part way torn down. Note to self maybe read the Manuel before I tear it apart. Haha

 

[seedcleaner]

You do not need to remove the belt to allow the cylinder to spin. Just remove the two shiney bolts that are opposite each other around the two speed gearbox. They should be 17 mm IIRC. These bolts determine if it is in high, low, or neutral when removed.

If you are working on this machine and keeping it, invest in the long threaded bolts Claas sells to spread the variable speed pulleys. They work very well, as long as the threads are clean in the pulley. You can email me if you want, it is in my profile. I had a lot to learn also a few years ago.

 

[Price]

Yep already have the bolts to spread pulleys. That's seems like a very good design ...compared to wedging bars and everything in there and trying not to smash your fingers. I'm planning on keeping the machine for long while.

 

[seedcleaner]

In a pinch, small oak wood works well to wedge in the pulleys to spread them. That is often what we used on our 2388.

 

[Price]

Well didn't get around to actually pulling main concave till today. Did it the same way seed cleaner described, only about half as much stuff to remove as the book tells you. "tight fit" should have had blank spots in front of it and behind it , so you could add your own choice words... Cause **** was it ever tight.... You can only have enough board to clear the shaker pan ribs, no more! Used a Atv winch to pull it in and out, and a engine hoist to lift in and out. Going back in was a breeze, just wrap straps over top the cylinder and winch right into place.

 

[chirpfar]

When pulling the concaves out, we skipped the part in the link that seedcleaner posted about lowering the front shaker pan by removing the bolts from the rubber bushings. I somehow totally glossed over that line when following his instructions. I really think that if we'd have removed that bolt, we'd have gotten at least the extra 1/2" we needed. Instead, we removed one of the sheetmetal filler plates in the cylinder to gain a little extra space. Removing the shaker bolts would have been a much better option and much easier. Pays to read your instructions.

 

[Price]

Trying to adjust concave clearance today, with no luck. Stuck on the very first step! Close concave to 7mm...cebis goes to 7mm for a target, but displays that it's at 19mm (which it is), played with linkage and got it to go to 12mm. And it cycles from 50- 12mm repeatedly. If you pick up on concave with a bar it easily goes up to 8mm actual and 7mm on cebis. When I do this the front cylinders that push concave up extend a little more. Cycle the concave with cebis and again it goes 50-12mm. Why won't the cylinders fully extend to get me to my proper clearance? Gauge shows 125 bar. The linkage is loose so that the single large cylinder on right side that forces concave open isn't deadheading. What am I doing wrong?

Note I never ran this combine so I don't know if it has ever fully closed concave to 7mm.

 

[Price]

Been meaning to share my findings on why the concave wouldn't close to 7mm. After much frustration and wasted time....I finally got a hold of a good shop guy at the dealer. Was told to check the pivot pins as they can get some build up in them that can cause problems. Sure enough disassembled every thing and had to pry/hammer the pivot pins off. Some emery cloth, a Rotary tool and some grease...put back together and moved up to 8-9mm. Started to square everything up from there and either concaves are completely different or factory was way off square! After I squared it all up it works perfect 7-50mm.

 

[bad altitude]

New Lexion Pricing

I was wondering if the depreciating Euro has had any positive effect on Lexion new combine pricing. Or is it like a lot of other things where the benefits to us of currency value get absorbed somewhere else along the way.

 

[seedcleaner]

Been meaning to share my findings on why the concave wouldn't close to 7mm. After much frustration and wasted time....I finally got a hold of a good shop guy at the dealer. Was told to check the pivot pins as they can get some build up in them that can cause problems. Sure enough disassembled every thing and had to pry/hammer the pivot pins off. Some emery cloth, a Rotary tool and some grease...put back together and moved up to 8-9mm. Started to square everything up from there and either concaves are completely different or factory was way off square! After I squared it all up it works perfect 7-50mm.

Thats good to hear. I thought of residue build-up getting pinched but thought it would be unlikely. Which area did you focus on, the front?

Leveling the concave can be complicated, setting the pinch point and sensor, etc...

 

[Price]

Should have been more clear, the pivot points on the outside of the body. Where the linkage that moves the concave pivots. There are two welded on stubs on each side of the machine, and snap rings hold the linkage on them.