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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Re: Deere heads on TR75

Well see if this picture helps you any. The frame I made for my 216 has a plate on each side to fill the gap of 14ga metal. Running up and down is a piece of 1"x2" rectangular tubing just to tie the top and bottom together. The top just has a piece of 1/4" flat with a scrap of square tubing welded on the top to slip into the notch in the head. The bottom has a piece of 1/8" flat steel running across and to fit against the NH feederhouse at the bottom I welded a piece of 1" flat at an ange and 1 running on its side to reinforce it. Then there just a coupleof flat pieces sticking down to run a bolt into the quicklatch holes on the head. So the plate just slips up into the header and is held on with 2 bolts at the bottom of te feeder opening.
I originally took the pivot face plate off of the TR86 to use to fit everything up with. Heres a picture of the header. I'll try to get a couple up close ones tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: Deere heads on TR75

See if these help. The plate at the top is as thick as the piece of metal on the front top ofthe opening on the head that sticks down. This way the header can sit in the saddle on the top of the NH feederhouse without the little edge of metal on the JD head getting bent. Hope that all makes sense.




 

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Re: Deere heads on TR75

Well at first I was concerned about that also. So I used 3/8 bolts thru the yoke and drive shaft as a shear bolt instead of using a square key to drive the shaft. But I have found that so far if I overfeed the head like in tough straw the feederhouse chain slip clutch will go long before the header auger will be close to choking up. One bad thing about using a Deere head is that you need to get close to matching the Deere feederhuse shaft speed so as not to overspeed the Deere sickle wobblebox. I used a tach on my shaft and found that the correct speed is about 1/3 of full feeder speed on the NH. So the NH feeder is running slow compared to running it with a NH head. If you want I think you could make up for this by figuring out what size belt pulley would be needed to keep the wobblebox drive speed the same but allow faster feederhouse speed. I didn't go and do that on mine. I just bought a weld on pulley and sprocket to match the size that the Deere head came with.
On mine I removed the Deere driveshafts and put them away just i case I find a nice NH head for the right price. then Ican just put the original deere parts back on and it could be used on a green combine again.
The slower feeder speed doesn't bother me much. But cutting soybeans the Deere cutter bar starts to push dirt in conventional tilled ground at about 4 mph. Limits my groundspeed because of this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Deere heads on TR75

Its not really a problem running the NH feeder slower. Its just that with a NH head you can run the feederchain at full speed. I only had a little trouble last summer the first day cutting wheat. There was some tough straw areas and I did slip the feeder chain slip clutch. within a hour or so the straw was dry enough I never slipped it again. I never had a bit of trouble with beans. It was just the head would push alittle dirt out on the ends of the cutterbar at higher ground speeds.
On the sprocket thing, I hadn't thought about that. I was just thinking about the knife drive. I think you will get along fine with the 220 heads just running at the Deere speed. Then with the 212 correct me if I'm wrong but don't they run the belts with reel drive hydraulics? If so then pushing the feeder speed up alittle will not hurt the auger. It is the wobble box that Deere always had warning about running to fast.
The pins and eyebolts come from NH. They fit the 973 model heads.
 

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Re: Deere heads on TR75

Awesome example of how helpful a fellow country man is. If only the whole world could work together and help each other out like this.
 
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