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Re: flippin stalk knives

Plowmaster it takes at least a hour per row. Some people do it but, from where I stand to go though that much work I would put on new. Not to be a parts seller. If you dont' mind taking the time its OK. the only thing to remember is to shim the front & the holes in the Knives are solted so you might have to do adjusting after you flip Knives around. TAKES TIME for it to do a good job. You even some times have to do it when you put on new Nkives. Hope it helps.
 

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Re: flippin stalk knives

I would say for two guys it would take at least an hour to flip flop the knives. Though one of the mechanics at our CIH dealer said he & the farmer did an 8 row head in 4 hrs.

It will take two guys if you are doing it with the head still on the combine. Guy underneath need to wear google because he is going to get a facefull of crap falling in his face.

If all your rows are in time you should be able to do all the rows at the same time. If you have a row out of time you will have to do it seperately.

Just remember that for each row you will have to turn it 4 times unless you take the stripper plates off. Removing the stripper plates you should be able to do 4 knives at once (2 on top & 2 on the bottom).

We flip flop ours after 2 yrs use so we get 4 yrs out of a set (about 5,500acres total use). Best way to do it is to bring the head into the shop & flip it up on it's back. That way one man can do it standing up. Sure keeps the crap out of your face and a whole lot easier.
 

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Re: flippin stalk knives

Quote:we bought this head new in 98, run from 1500 to 2000 acres thru it a year since. guess im due for a little head maint. costs about 100 bucks a row thru shoup. i may just give them the flippy as im sure the head will be traded before they get as dull as they are now. thanks for the tip boog, but how did you roll the head back in the shop? forklift?

FARM ON!


You have not changed knives since the head was new? Dang, talk about getting your money's worth. Ours is a '99 and we put our 2nd new set on before start of harvest this last fall.

As for flipping the head on it's back we used a JD 4020 & 148 loader. Make a bracket , 2 prefferably, and bolt to the underside of the bottom stalk roll plate (there are bolt holes at the very front. Our head is a 1083 & we used 2 though when we had a 1063 we only used 1. I recommend removing the snouts, service tech said not to but I have seen them flip backwards & bend. Next we brought the loader over the head from the backside & rain chains from ech corner of the bucket to the brackets bolted under the front of the rolls. Lift up & slowly back the tractor up till you have the head standing up. Next we put pieces of railroad ties under the outer sides if the head (that stick out toward the back) and let the head down on these . Finally we ran a couple 4x4 wood posts from the base of the poles of of shop on an angle & wedged them against the head about 3' up to give it additional support. It will sit without the front braces but I didn't want to take a chance of something hitting the head and knocking it over, especially if someone was working on it at the time. You now have it in position to work on the underneath side of the head while standing up. BTW, the top & bottom knife bolts go thru 2 knives, middle ones thread into the stalk roll. When you go to set the knife clearances you want them as close as possible without ticking. There's a trick to getting them set but once you get the hang of it it's fairly simple. Just remember you can't tighten the top & bottom bolts till you have both those knives set.

I find the knives are easier to change with the stripper plates off. With them off one guy can change the knives pretty easily. Also that gives you a chance to check the stripper plates for wear. I'm betting that if they are original you will want to put new ones on.

Good luck
 

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Re: flippin stalk knives

I forgot mention resetting the weed knifes. Does your head have both the upper & lower weed knives? Ours only has the bottom. Haven't had a head with upper knives for close to 20 years.

On the deck plates, where we saw the most wear was starting about 4" above the bottom end. They will start to cup there. Once you get them off sight down them, you will see the wear.

One other thing I forgot. You will most likely need to to replace the little triangular plate at the top between the stalk rolls, can't remember what it is called. New ones weld on. WE haven't had to replace them yet on the 1083 but did have to on the 1063 we had. Don't know if it is the correct way but we just welded them on over what was left of the old ones. Made the deck plates a little hard to slide but that was all.

BTW, I have shelled corn in Jan. & agree it is no fun, especially when there is snow. :~( Have you froze the sieves up yet?
 
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