why cant you take the top inspection door off of the rotor or dont they have them on a 2388
Removing 2388 Feeder House
Just purchased a 2005 2388 and want to take off the feeder house to inspect the rotor. First, what is the best way to remove the header reverser? Second, I'm thinking that I can use my forklift to lift off the feeder house by raising the feeder house and sliding the forks inside of it? Any other suggestions as to steps used would be very helpful.
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Are you wanting to take the entire rotor out? If not I highly recommend leaving the feeder house on and just opening up the inspection panels, just for convenience.
When we did a bunch of work last year we removed the feeder with the backhoe. We just cradled the front of the feeder in the bucket and stretched chains from the rear of the feeder to the top of the bucket to support it. We used boomers to tighten the chains. It worked fine except for the backhoe not having very strong hydraulics.
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Not the best picture, but it's what I have for now.
I believe a '05 has a different reverser than our '99. If it isn't an electric starter motor held on by a few bolts then I can't help on that.
When we did a bunch of work last year we removed the feeder with the backhoe. We just cradled the front of the feeder in the bucket and stretched chains from the rear of the feeder to the top of the bucket to support it. We used boomers to tighten the chains. It worked fine except for the backhoe not having very strong hydraulics.
Not the best picture, but it's what I have for now.
I believe a '05 has a different reverser than our '99. If it isn't an electric starter motor held on by a few bolts then I can't help on that.
Yes, I plan on taking the rotor completely out in order to do some welding on the cone so I'm going to have to take the feeder house completely off. Thank you!
if your going to go that far to weld on the cone why dont you just replace it?
The picture kind of says it all about removing the feeder.
Is there still the mystery/hidden bolt you have to find when you get to taking the front bearing plate off to drop the rotor out? And don't let the rotor slide out on the ground when it's all unbolted.
Plan on doing a lot of "while you're at it" work on the cage and rotor when you have it out, and you probably will put a new front cone in.
And look at where the returns auger feeds back into the side of the rotor.
Is there still the mystery/hidden bolt you have to find when you get to taking the front bearing plate off to drop the rotor out? And don't let the rotor slide out on the ground when it's all unbolted.
Plan on doing a lot of "while you're at it" work on the cage and rotor when you have it out, and you probably will put a new front cone in.
And look at where the returns auger feeds back into the side of the rotor.
Don't remove the reverser, just undo the hyd hoses to them and cap them off. (Just remember if you are going to start the combine you should have steel caps). Forklift would work great, just put the forks under the feederhouse and hook chains like the picture of the backhoe.
That's a very good piece of advice. We had to remove the rotor to replace one half the rotor cage and fix two broken transport vanes, and while we had it out we put on new rasp bars, elephant ears, and a complete set of vanes. Look the feeder house over as well. We ended up replacing the stripper plate things on the feeder chain sprockets, and I believe we replaced the sprockets.
Anyone have any tips for getting the rotor back in? We did it using the AgKrane (don't have an actual forklift) to lift and support the rotor from the front, and a come-along hooked to the back to pull it on through. We got it, but not without considerable frustration.
Anyone have any tips for getting the rotor back in? We did it using the AgKrane (don't have an actual forklift) to lift and support the rotor from the front, and a come-along hooked to the back to pull it on through. We got it, but not without considerable frustration.
That's a very good piece of advice. We had to remove the rotor to replace one half the rotor cage and fix two broken transport vanes, and while we had it out we put on new rasp bars, elephant ears, and a complete set of vanes. Look the feeder house over as well. We ended up replacing the stripper plate things on the feeder chain sprockets, and I believe we replaced the sprockets.
Anyone have any tips for getting the rotor back in? We did it using the AgKrane (don't have an actual forklift) to lift and support the rotor from the front, and a come-along hooked to the back to pull it on through. We got it, but not without considerable frustration.
If you have to replace the elephant ears, put the after market AFX head on it instead of the ears. If your cutting small grains or soybeans it will make a huge difference in how the machine feeds.
If you can find a fork lift, make an installing piece out of square tubing welded to a piece that will slide over one of the forks. You can tilt the fork and slide the rotor back in with out a much of a problem. It is a lot easier than trying to drag it back in with a come-along. I will try to get a picture of the piece the local dealer uses.
Anyone have any tips for getting the rotor back in? We did it using the AgKrane (don't have an actual forklift) to lift and support the rotor from the front, and a come-along hooked to the back to pull it on through. We got it, but not without considerable frustration.
If you have to replace the elephant ears, put the after market AFX head on it instead of the ears. If your cutting small grains or soybeans it will make a huge difference in how the machine feeds.
If you can find a fork lift, make an installing piece out of square tubing welded to a piece that will slide over one of the forks. You can tilt the fork and slide the rotor back in with out a much of a problem. It is a lot easier than trying to drag it back in with a come-along. I will try to get a picture of the piece the local dealer uses.
Too expensive to replace the cone. I had 4500 hrs. on my 1670 I just traded and still had the original cone in it. Spend 1 hour a year with a MIG welder inside the combine and you should never have to replace a cone.
If you are running a rock trap on your machine it would be a good idea to check out my website www.razorrockbeaters.com you will love the added capacity that it will give your machine.
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