[smallfarmer]

Remove feederhouse, remove rear cover and hook a come-a-long to rear of rotor (I hook to one of the rotor bars). Take bearing housing off front of rotor and use a front end loader tractor to ease rotor out. I can pull mine in about 30 minutes.

 

[cboyd]

We're in the process of doing some work to the combine, and we need to pull the rotor. We need to replace the transition cone and need to replace some transport vanes on the cage. Whats the easiest way to get the rotor out without damaging anything in the process?

 

[doorknob]

John, if you ever get around to writing a book, would you please let me know. Cuz I want to buy a copy.

I'm kinda disappointed with this series of pictures though................you did'nt include one of removing the rotor outside on a nice warm, sunny day with the mountain in the background..........

.................

 

[trijfarms]

Do they go in as easy, as 98j make it looks like, as they come out? Do you have pics of putting it back in 98j

 

[okpanhandle]

We used our Ag-Krane to pull it out. We rested that big bar that holds the bearing on the pallet forks and chained it to the mast to secure it. As we drove forward and got most of the rotor exposed we hooked chains from the rear of the rotor to the top of the Ag-Krane mast in a cantilever fashion. That allowed us to keep it supported so it didn't come crashing to the ground. To get it back in we reversed the process, using a come-along attached to the rear of the rotor, running through that inspection hole in the engine compartment up to a roof rafter. It was much less easy and fun to put it back in, but that was the first time we've ever did it.

Our method probably wasn't near as easy or safe as 98j's, but it worked.

 

[98j]

Doorknob!! Howz things on the soggy side of the mountain??
As a matter of fact, I WILL have a book out soon...the title is:
"How to Make a Small Fortune in Wheat Farming"
(subtitled 'Start with a Very Large One')

OK, so you are going through mountain withdrawal. Take two of
these & call me in the morning:

 

[98j]

First, I get zero credit for the above referenced plan of attack......that
was the foreman's brain child. I just shoot the pictures.
Second, yup went back in pretty easy. We had heard some ugly
stories about the final hook up into the splines as being the project from H e l l. Turned out to be fairly easy. You do want to have a good
collection of pry bars, come along's & cuss words at the ready for
both removal & installation. No pics of the installation........too busy
helping to pry, pull & cuss.

 

[doorknob]

Oh man,.....thanks a bunch John. Things are a bit soggy over here. Try'n to load out wheat from the bins and I think more gets stuck the truck bed and racks than flows out at the elevator with this blasted downpour then dry routine.
Those pictures are a welcome sight for sure.

Thansk again.

 

[98j]

Tune up the welder.

 

[98j]

Have the come along ready.

Easy does it.

 

[98j]

 

[98j]

 

[98j]

Looking at something like this?????

A before shot through the gullet of the 1670 from a couple of years back. The foreman got about all the goodies out of this cone. He had extended the life by laying on some hard surfacing with the
wire feed. When the 1470's left the ranch at about 5000 hrs &
20+ years, they had the original cones. They had been pulled &
chromed twice. But times have changed. The cost to chrome the
cone & the crummy quality of same changed the math. It was determined that it was cheaper to run the cone in the 1670 to destruction, then go back in new. Cheated the destruction for a couple of seasons, then had to bite the bullet.

 

[98j]

New cone on the shop floor. "Hollywood" putting the finishing touch on
the new vanes. WAY easier to do this out on the floor. I got to help a
couple of times changing them in the machine. The top bolts, in the machine, are an adventure.

"Hollywood" & "Steep" hustle the cone into position:

Installed. Ready for the rotor. Don't expect that the pretty red paint
will last too long once the wheat starts jamming it's way through.

 

[98j]

Using the tractor method to re install the rotor into the 1670.

 

[98j]

Easy does it.....

Almost there.....

Drat! A slight hang up just before being able to button things up. A little work with the grinder to take care of the problem:

Note the OSHA approved perch that he is using to do this last minute touch up.

 

[cboyd]

Thanks alot, you sure make this all look too easy. When you are using your stand to pull the rotor, do you just lay some boards down under the rotor to give it something to slide on, or do you just suck the concaves up and let it slide out on the concaves?

 

[torque]

Thanks 98j for the pictures. I have been trying to figure out a different bottom step that won't get torn off because I run with the ladder forward. There it was, the answer to my problems right there in your pictures! I assume that is part of the hillco setup? Thanks again, TORQUE

 

[okpanhandle]

One thing I just thought of, cboyd, make sure the new vanes for the transition cone match the cone. There are two different styles, differentiated by the number of bolt holes. When we replaced vanes we ended up getting the wrong ones. They worked, but the ones at the front were too long and had to be shortened with the torch. If you're getting a new cone anyway I highly doubt it would be a problem, just something to think about.

Hey 98j, what kind of rotor is that that only has three separating bars at the back? Our standard rotors have always had four. You guys' loader method for lifting the rotor looks a lot like our forklift method.

 

[doorknob]

That is a 24" rotor. Goes with the 1640/1660, etc. size machines.