[seedcleaner]

2011 with 1050 engine hours, about 670 effective operating hours. The right main countershaft bearing is done for. No fire and I don't think the shaft was harmed. I took the pulleys off last night. I need to torch the bearing off the shaft. I have noticed the zerk not wanting to take grease lately. The bearing appeared completely dry. I have been using amsoil polymeric but maybe should rethink thst. Found a rotor bearing out when doing rotor flow kit.

It all came apart well for the small amount if tools I had to work with...but,
How do I inspect shaft for cracks?
what caused bearing failure?
how do I get taper rings tight for the two pulleys?

Any other advice.

Thanks

 

[SouthernSK]

Seedcleaner the best way to tighten the taper rings is to buy a metric threaded rod the same diameter as the thread on the counter shaft. You will need to get a pipe that fits over the shaft but rides against the taper ring. On one end of pipe I welded a old taper ring into the end and the other end of the pipe I welded a 1/2 inch plate with a hole in the center for the threaded rod to go through. On the threaded rod you will need to weld a nut to be able to hold it from turning. You screw the rod into the counter shaft and use a second nut to put presure against the plate of the pipe to press in the ring as tight as you can. If you want to call me or send me a email I could try take a picture for you. I am not sure I still have your email.

 

[ShinyNewFarmer]

Southern's method sounds better for making sure the tapered rings are tight than what we did, which is basically nothing! I think all we did was as we put everything back together, we just put a pipe over the countershaft and tapped it with a hammer to push the pulley against the ring behind it. Then we just torqued everything up. We also made sure we used new tapered rings. It must have worked as we cut the entire season without any problems.

As for inspecting the shaft, I can't say. You can get a good look at it through the upper inspection doors in the grain tank. My shaft had broken off on the right side, so I had to replace it. Your issue at least has a simpler/cheaper fix! The only other tip I could give is to heat up the new bearing in the oven. We didn't aim for a particular temp, just enough so that it slid easily onto the shaft. We just heated it up in the house and then carried it over to the shop with some leather gloves. It slid right on without any fighting.

 

[stsdavew]

I did nothing elaborate when my bearing went as well. When you tighten the bolt with the washer you are essentially doing the same thing as with that tool. Just make sure its tight. The reason the bearing went on my machine was the grease was coming out between the bearing and holder not going into the bearing. Im not sure the type of grease matters as much as the frequency of greasing. I still think 100hr grease interval in those harsh dusty conditons is to long. Less grease more often is better in my opinion that way grease stays fresher and less likely to "harden" in those small lines. Maybe a lighter grease would help but then you would still need to grease more often. As to the shaft unless it was really close to twisting off the only way to really check it would be to magnaflux it.

 

[joesixpack]

We never take an extra step to the taper rings, that's the job of the outer bolt and thick washer. When you tighten it, it locks it all together.

Not familiar with Amsoil grease but you want a high speed bearing formulation rather than something like an ultra-tack for slow high pressure pins. We always try to grease when hot or at least every few. We also grease those every day and heavily the rotor bearings.

We've never had any of the large bearings you can grease fail but did change one on pre-season maintenance when we thought you could feel a bit of a tick when turning it.

Some things to consider, has the variable speed belt ever been smoked? They can get a flat spot that will vibrate and hammer away at all that stuff.

The variable speed sheaves have plastic bushings that the two halves slide on and we change those out when you can start to measure a difference between pulley thickness on the belt side and the open side of the pulleys. 1/16" maybe 1/8" and that's pushing it.

 

[SouthernSK]

You will never tighten it properly with just the bolt and washer. You have to tighten the rings individualy rather than all 4 at once. An improper tightened inner ring is why my countershaft broke and the bolt and washer was tight on the outside.

 

[SouthernSK]

Are there any bearings on the machine that can not be over greased? Most have felt seals.

 

[seedcleaner]

More info....dealer said the outer bolt tightens it all. I will likely use a pipe and tap the inner pulley tapered ring on before the outer pulley and bolt. I see no reason to buy new tapers when mine were not ran loose. I will clean everything with ether upon reassembly.

I grease entire combine often. These get greased I feel every 20 hours run time for sure. Amsoil is thick and tacky, but maybe better suited for pins and bushings, although they claim can be used for nearly everything. Heard great about a Schaeffer grease but sounded even more expensive.

I have already replaced round bushings and gliding shoes off season maintenance. Have to admit, choked combine a few days ago, first time this season.green grass wrapped around impeller and slipped impeller belt. Loosened impeller belt and engaged for a second or two, some belt didn't want to turn,lol. On the way to the field to inspect belts before going to pick bearing up.

Thanks for the conversation.

 

[joesixpack]

Sure wouldn't hurt to tap on that ring with a pipe but all we've ever done is use the bolt. We also always coat all surfaces with never seize and maybe the coating on the bushing lets the outer assembly slide and tighten the inner before locking up.

 

[seedcleaner]

I thought about antiseeze but fear it would be unwise as it will create a tolerance.

Might use some on the bearing though.

 

[joesixpack]

Can't be too unwise because we always found traces of it or a lubricant grease from the factory.

 

[stsdavew]

If i remember correctly the service manual recomends using fluid film on the shaft and taper rings so they slide easily and everything can tighten up properly.

 

[briandublanko]

2011 with 1050 engine hours, about 670 effective operating hours. The right main countershaft bearing is done for. No fire and I don't think the shaft was harmed. I took the pulleys off last night. I need to torch the bearing off the shaft. I have noticed the zerk not wanting to take grease lately. The bearing appeared completely dry. I have been using amsoil polymeric but maybe should rethink thst. Found a rotor bearing out when doing rotor flow kit.

It all came apart well for the small amount if tools I had to work with...but,
How do I inspect shaft for cracks?
what caused bearing failure?
how do I get taper rings tight for the two pulleys?

Any other advice.

Thanks

Good to know thanks seedcleaner. Funny i remember one of my zerks taking grease slower the last few times we greased but just dont remember which one it was. Combine is going in few weeks for harvest check and have SB cylinder and concave installed in a few weeks.. Definetly going to get them to check this.

 

[Transaxial]

With all the trouble on these machines breaking the right end of the countershafts, was just wondering what you guys thought might be the most likely cause? It is fairly obvious if the bearing is not getting grease why it would fail. But I still wonder if the main reason the bearing fails or the shaft breaks is related to vibration caused by a bad belt or whatever is causing that big heavy VS sheave set to wobble. I watch mine pretty close and have changed VS belts long before they are worn out and found that the vibration or jumping is much less after installing a new belt. You would not have guessed the belt to be suspect just looking at it. I have also compared other combines for movement of that pulley set and some vibrate really bad while others are very smooth, better than mine even with a new belt. How much vibration is normal or should I say tolerable before damage starts? This is such an important drive. What do you guys think? TIA.
Just another thought is that these shafts can be bent slightly , more or less, which will cause constant vibration. I changed mine on the 590 because it had .015 total runout and the sheaves were vibrating a lot more than I wanted to see. Claas said it was within spec. It was quite a bit better with the new shaft but still not as smooth as some I have seen.

 

[lilboss1970]

Was your machine ran in any flooded crops? I think mine is out also, taking it in tomorrow so they can start Monday on it. I have greased mine every other day, but I think the dirt from the flooded stuff has done it in. The service manager said they have done a bunch of them this year, also said it's been new to old machines. I thought I was getting along good, but was within 40 acres of being done and now this happened.

 

[rickfly]

do not waste money on exotic greases and miracle goo, just use ep2 grease unless specifically stated to use something else, as well as ensuring the transfer ports in housing and bearings are clear and aligned.

 

[SouthernSK]

When you look at what those pulleys weigh that hang out from the countershaft, if there is any up and down movement or vibration it is going to kill the countershaft. I wonder if the heavy cast pulleys in this case are a hinderance because they add to much wieght that can easily be excited by various things. When you get a hundered and some pounds of pulleys moving up and down as the shaft rotates your are going to have problems in short order.

 

[seedcleaner]

A couple hundred acres before this bearing went out, I plugged the machine. I believe the variable speed belt developed a minor flat spot. I am up and running but Monday will order a belt. Maybe just a coincidence. I replaced the bearing in the field. Those pulleys are HEAVY., and so is the bearing. The pulleys seem to run true but the belt has a slight shimmy, and as always, the hydro adjuster on the pulley wobbles.
I grease often, but think I will grease with larger amounts. It is next to impossible to see if/when grease comes out.

 

[stsdavew]

Are these brg failures on machines with or without that brace that goes from one pulley to the other? Mine doesnt have that brace but i think it would help lots with vibration and just a little extra support for both pulleys. I agree with southern that those pulleys are pretty heavy for that shaft and brg. Especially when a lump goes through...

 

[Don Boles]

Are these brg failures on machines with or without that brace that goes from one pulley to the other?

Good question and I'm going to guess no.