[ihman]

Getting ready to redue our standard rotor on our 1680 and have come across 3 different auger front flights that mimick the AFX rotor. Does anyone have any experience with either or? Here they are if the attachments work.


http://www.abilenemachine.com/shop/custo.... 6c1a5198c0d986


http://www.kilemfg.com/2.html

http://www.loewenmfg.com/AFX.html

The dealer is trying to talk me into trading up to an AFX rotor but right now I just don't wanna spend the extra money. I'm really leaning towards the one from abliene machine as it more resembles the true AFX.

any pointers fire away,,,,
and thanx
Brad

 

[doorknob]

Kile.

 

[bubbaleroy]

KILE. Best bang for the buck. We have them on a 1666 and 1688. Night and day difference. Also Mr Kile is very nice to deal with.

 

[8010when]

We have ran the Loewen and the Kile. I would say that both preform about evenly. The only advantage that I have seen is the Kile has replaceable wear plates on the front. Anyways both are a big improvement to elephant ears. I have never ran the one from Abelene machines so I have no idea. Good luck.

 

[torque]

The Abiline and Leowen are the same. I put in the Leowen as it was only $200 more than Kyle (on sale) and genuine CaseIH flighting fits it. TORQUE

 

[schaaftr]

IHMAN: You say you have a standard rotor? I know you can update a specialty rotor to AFX type but I am not sure how much you would gain on the standard rotor by adding the AFX type flights, if they can be attached at all. I would be interested to know if it can be done and how much it helps crop flow.

 

[doorknob]

Absolutely they can be installed, and you gain just as much as on any other style rotor. The mounting brackets and spider on the standard and specialty are identical. The difference between the standard and specialty is all from the rotor vanes rearward.

There are a lot of standard rotors still used in hilly wheat country.

 

[snosfun]

Kile, they work great, no more rumbling. I like the fact you can replace the wear faces like mentioned above, and they are a good price. I have the standard rotor and I think it was a big improvement over ears.

 

[kirschenman]

I have heard to drop the # 2 and 3 rub bars on the helicals as well. Others will have a better way of explaining it. Have a neighbor that did it and said they increased capacity by over 10%.

 

[ihman]

Yeah I ordered the kiles today and they said they would fit on a standard rotor sooooo. I hope it helps out.

 

[ecsaskfarmboy]

I have also heard this and was wondering if anybody has tried it and what the results were especialy in hard to thresh crops like HRSW . I can see how it may increase capacity in easy to thresh crops but if you had to run tighter concave clearance or put filler plates in if there would be an advantage.

 

[montana]

It defenitly helps in everthing I harvest DNS,barley, oats, peas... just a smoother moore even feeding you might try the transition pieces as well. I think they help as well..

 

[1640]

Do you have to pull the rotor or can you put the Kile's on with the rotor still in the combine?

 

[montana]

you can do it without pulling the rotor not reall fun but can be done I would pull the rotor it really doesn't take that long and then you can check out other items alot better.

 

[watglen]

I just installed kile flights and transition pieces yesterday. After we (two guys) spent an afternoon getting frustrated, i called Kile and he pointed me in the right direction. After that, it took about 1 1/2 hrs to install 3 flights and 3 transitions on a 2166. I removed the beater and feeder house, left the rotor in place. Its tight, but its not too bad really.

Still have to balance the rotor to finish.

Haven't used it yet.

 

[watglen]

I balanced the rotor today. It took exactly 3 lbs. Thats a lot, but it did eliminate virtually all the vibration up to 1300 rpm on the rotor.

All i did was use a magnetic ground clamp to secure large flatwashers. I found the heavy spot in the revolution, and positioned it at the bottom of travel, then placed the magnet on the flight straight up from there. Then i added and subtracted washers till i found the right amount to counter the heavy spot. I spent a lot of time turning the rotor this way and that trying to see that tiny little bit of movement that would tell me i was too heavy or too light.

However, that is a rough balance at best. How do you balance it dynamically?

Ken