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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I really need to hear fromnsomeone that has or knows what is involved in flipping sch cutter bar. Has this been done using sch roller guides?
will they just be mounted on the bottom side and the guards upside down?
The driven head bolt can be adjusted down for the upside down guards, but what do you do on the first two open topped guards ( the ones that have the room for the sickle head gusset), are these guards flipped too?
any info is reaally appriciated. I have searched past tpics and came up with nothing seems everyone has heard of this ,but no other info??
 

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We were just doing our first. We use a roller guide about every foot. We modified left and right divider to allow for the point of guard being lower. We used open face guard at first two positions next to head. We installed them guards in a normal manner with them shimmed down to same height as flipped guards. Some trimming may be necessary next to wobble box to prevent any binding and we had to trim a little iron from 1st open face guard to prevent binding. This might vary a little between machines for slight differences on where wobble box sits. We did this as an effort to cut navy beans closer and cleaner. We'll see how it goes soon. I got a Gleaner guru out west of me to try this last fall for edibles and he quickly had to do a few more so it must do something. Only down fall I've heard of is you will be getting closer to picking rocks. I guess that is just one of them things when growing these crops on rocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the info, so did the roller guides mount on the bottom of the backbone and ended up being upside down? I read an old post and you had mentioned on the sch cutter bar when it has a heavy load it has a tendensy to bow the first skid plate . any insight on that area , I think my first skid with the a frame may be bowed up on the front edge?
 

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Yes I believe that is only way the roller guides would fit. The first or far left endplate has been reinforced. There is a rib that starts at point where a-frame tie rod hooks and runs all the way out to area behind wobble box. This strenthens the skid plate enough so it has drastically reduced the number of broken heads with the SCH system. The head was having to take the stress of preventing skid from bending under heavy load. The A-frame was strengthened at about the same time. Something about the SCH or greener crops created some problems we had never seen before. The flipped SCH requires about 13/16 to 7/8" spacer under the first two open face guards. Doesn't seem like much but they are enjoying a lower cleaner cut. Talked to buddy that has did alot of these and he said some do require some cutting and trimming of mount near wobble box and first couple guards to prevent interferance with head or sickle but some do not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
let me get this right the first 2 guards stay upright you just space them lower using a shim 13/16"-7/8", then the other guards get flipped upside down. witrh the roller guides also flipped and mounted to the guard in the same position. only being upside down???
would this make the first 2 guards have the sickle opening at a different angle than the rest of the guards, since they would be upside down??
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i hope i found some of my problems. toke of four skid plates took to press and staighted, also the front tab that is held up, with a 1/2" carraige bolt, to the sickle backbone. these tabs help locate cutter bar and with out the proper angleon these tabs, there is no adjustment on the stabilizer arms that would help the cutter bar angle. also flttened out the front rolled up edge of the skid plates for a flatter profile .
on a '98 r62 with infinite ahhc and a 500 series header{converted}, callibrated head several times adjusted header raise and lower time, adj. accumulator, checked sensor oiperating voltages. head calibrates , seems to be very sensative, calling for adj. constantly. did help out the jerkiness by opening accumlator 1/2 way. but still is calling for movements on the box. right and left sensor voltages where 2.2min. and 3.85 max. turnbuckle is located in top hole of feeler bar end arm.
some times calibrated with dial at 0 the head would go down auto. and then calibrate with dial at 12 the would operate differtly in the working ranges ...........does it matter where the 0-12 dial and the sensitivity knobs are set at when you run through calibration?????
just thinking if the side arm off the feeler bar was rotated to 90 degrees in comparison to the actual under head feelers, if my voltage range would widen and not be so darn sensitive????
when we ended seemed to work but was always calling for movement.
 

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Comboy, I have to watch over the next one a little closer for there is a bit more to it. We'll likely be doing some more soon for the first guy that ran the one we did claims it is awsome. Thanks to whoever came up with this. As soon it is dries up another guy will be running the one he did himself to try get more of the hail damaged soybeans that are right on the ground.

I'd move turnbuckle to lower hole for less sensativity. I know of guys that did this. We usually slowed hydralics to 8 second full lift and the same for lower. Now starting to play with opening the accumulater a bit like I have read about on these sites. I can't answer you on calibrating with sensativity one way or the other for I have not done one myself for quite some time.
 

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Comboy, A couple more things come back to mind when heavy into flex head use. Make sure header is level with ground. Maybe best to check this with proper air pressure and then adjust at feeder accordingly. If lucky enough to have lateral tilt you should be able to tweak it there. This can make a big difference in the band width where pots are calling for lift or lower. Plus this can make a fair difference on how left or right side of header is feeding (especially without and air reel). Also once the skids gain some weight from dust things change. This is one piece of equipment that operators should be familar with adjustments and calibration. Reports on at least a half dozen flipped SCHs now is excellant. One guy found a couple new Challenger flex heads and got them fastened to his 72s. He needed something that would cut closer than his rigid Honeybees and opted to flip SCHs right away. He said they are cutting very low and clean. Very happy
 

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Forgot to mention this guy said he was able to just flip whole sickle instead of dismantling first section of sickle to keep head end to the left. He acomplished this by adding a piece of iron to drive side so he could fasten the head back up. I'll have to look into this when we do another.
 
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