[gleaner96]

New openers are 15.75 in, what is considered wore out enough to replace ? thx John

 

[Last gen farmer]

If your trying to cut thru residue then once they no longer cut and hairpin. The beveled edge needs to be there for that.

 

[Slip clutch]

Last Gen farmer I’m assuming you have a discs drill. How do you like it and how long did you own it. I would like to buy one some day.

 

[Last gen farmer]

I like the accurate seed placement and the ability to set the depth and not stress about soft soil and firm patches in the same field. They follow the contour about as good as you’ll get in my opinion. For canola being in a tight row it’s easier to find the seed to assess depth. With bean I can easily blank every other row to give 15 inch rows. This does help if the soil crusts as there are more beans to lift the crust up. In cereals I wouldn’t want 10 inch rows. I think you loose yield in this area. I’m on 7 1/2 inch and that seems ok. In my soils that are generally wetter,spoked depth wheels are a must. Closing of the row on my jd is adequate in normal conditions but in higher moisture situations a knotched closing wheel works better. Maintaining them however is not the nicest of jobs. Lots of wear point that need watching as the acres start creeping up. I’ve had mine four years and rebuilt it before I used it. Have over ten thousand acres on it now and the discs are still sharp and bushings are pretty tight. Only thing I’ve had issues with was the closing wheel arm bushing would seize with dust. So I greased them and made it worse. This year I added grease seals the same as newer drill and never a problem now. I’d buy a Deere again as there are lots of aftermarket upgrades available at a fraction of the cost from Deere. Can’t comment on other brands but Deere our number all the other put together so that says it all.

 

[Oat King]

I like the accurate seed placement and the ability to set the depth and not stress about soft soil and firm patches in the same field. They follow the contour about as good as you’ll get in my opinion. For canola being in a tight row it’s easier to find the seed to assess depth. With bean I can easily blank every other row to give 15 inch rows. This does help if the soil crusts as there are more beans to lift the crust up. In cereals I wouldn’t want 10 inch rows. I think you loose yield in this area. I’m on 7 1/2 inch and that seems ok. In my soils that are generally wetter,spoked depth wheels are a must. Closing of the row on my jd is adequate in normal conditions but in higher moisture situations a knotched closing wheel works better. Maintaining them however is not the nicest of jobs. Lots of wear point that need watching as the acres start creeping up. I’ve had mine four years and rebuilt it before I used it. Have over ten thousand acres on it now and the discs are still sharp and bushings are pretty tight. Only thing I’ve had issues with was the closing wheel arm bushing would seize with dust. So I greased them and made it worse. This year I added grease seals the same as newer drill and never a problem now. I’d buy a Deere again as there are lots of aftermarket upgrades available at a fraction of the cost from Deere. Can’t comment on other brands but Deere our number all the other put together so that says it all.

last generation farmer, what do you use to block you manifolds for beans, also how do you put your nitrogen down on your 1890, I have a 1895 and put nh3 down the front rows for a one pass system. I am in bourgault country here but I prefer my deere 1895 and like the simplicity of it compared to the bourgault. How is your front hitch on the drill holding up, I had to rebuild the two ball joints on the front frame, a neighbour ripped the front hitch right off so seems like a weak spot, I hung a chain around it just in case.

 

[Last gen farmer]

To block the rows I use rubber pieces that came with it. They slip inside the manifold and are spaced to fit every other outlet. Work great. I went back to 7:5 inch rows because I have a lot of long thin river lots and had to spray the same direction as seeded,if the sprayer wheels lined up with the rows I had a 30 gap growing nothing. As for N I either band in the fall or float and incorporate in spring. Would like to find a way of midrow banding but I’m go8ng to fall band this year if weather allows. My from hitch is ok doesn’t look a strong point thou. Tractor has hydraulic swing hitch so that helps but can see it cracking at some point.

 

[Slip clutch]

Last gen farmer. Did you do a test on 7.5” and 10” to see for sure if there’s a yield loss? I would like to know. I’m trying to Decide what to buy. 7.5” or 10”.