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Just wondering if anyone is seeding between the rows with a Seedhawk on 10" spacings? Is there enough room between the rows to get a twin knife through?

I have been doing a lot of research on drills lately, i like the idea of the twin knife but not the trash clearance. Have always liked the sound of mid row banders but not the sound of the price:eek:
 

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We seed between the rows with 10" seed hawk. Not a twin wing. It shouldn't be a problem as long as you have an SBR hitch. This was our first year with the SBR and we found the higher you leave the stubble, the better it worked. Less thrash on the ground and the hitch worked better.
 

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In my experience it will really comedown to how dedicated your are to making it work. Using a good signal, using the exact same headings year to year, seeding the field in the same pattern, and having a good pass to pass seam I have found all are crucial to really being successful. And once you have accomplished that it only becomes more tricky on year 3 when you only have a 5" slot to hit….. :roll eyes: The economic gain and the ability to seed heavy residue without using harrows etc prove to be enough for me to keep trying.
 

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Is there anyone out there seeding between the rows without a smart hitch?

Wondering if Omnistar or RTK alone will do the trick?
 

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Is there anyone out there seeding between the rows without a smart hitch?

Wondering if Omnistar or RTK alone will do the trick?
It might be possible on flat land, on land with slopes the drill likes to slide sideways a bit so it is hard to keep it between rows without a smart hitch.
 

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We seed between the rows without using a hitch. Have to use RTK though. Works good but it's imperative you have all offsets measured perfectly.
 

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I am also curious about this but with a seed master unit on 10". What kind of heavy trash management methods would one need to use to make one work? Heavy harrow in fall? Also wondering how the seed master works on ground that had either anhydrous or dry fertilizer fall applied?
 

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We have two Seedhawks, one on 10" space & one on 12", since pretty much all the newer rotary combines do a decent job of chopping straw, one pass with a harrow is all we have needed.

I think my seed between the rows hitch is a waste of money, I still seed between using RTK which has worked well, we don't have a lot of hills.
 

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we have a seedmaster on 12 in spacing with the smart hitch. I find that it seeds between the rows better when I don't use the smart hitch it seems that everytime I use it, it seeds on top of the rows. when I pull into the field and start seeding down the same place I did last year it seems to work better. The signal iam using is only sf1 and it works pretty good. this is also without harrowing the fields
 

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I thought that hitch would be a plus, what are you not liking about it?
You have to have perfect stubble for it to work. If you harrow like we do it will lean the stubble over a bit and the hitch sensor doesn't like that. Plus if you seed between the rows for 2-3 years you have wheat & canola stubble at the same time.
 

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You have to have perfect stubble for it to work. If you harrow like we do it will lean the stubble over a bit and the hitch sensor doesn't like that. Plus if you seed between the rows for 2-3 years you have wheat & canola stubble at the same time.
So what do you do on the fourth year?

Ive been playing around with a salford RTS on the angle in the fall. Seems to chop down and spread the older residue and leave a good amount of that years stubble standing. Or seed perpendicular. But that doesn't always work either, nor do i always want to do that depending on field size and shape.
 

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I like our sbr hitch, I just harrow the exact same way as the seeding to get ride of the old straw and it keeps the fresh straw standing good, only do this if the old straw is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
We have two Seedhawks, one on 10" space & one on 12", since pretty much all the newer rotary combines do a decent job of chopping straw, one pass with a harrow is all we have needed.

I think my seed between the rows hitch is a waste of money, I still seed between using RTK which has worked well, we don't have a lot of hills.
Hey Jason, What kind of soil do you have? Does the 10" step badly? I consider us to do a good job in the fall and spring with trash management. How many degrees of an angle do you need to seed at an angle?
 

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Excuse my ignorance, but what is the point of seeding between the rows if you are harrowing your stubble over anyway? I'm guessing your reasoning is different as to ours here in Australia.

Jason
 

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Excuse my ignorance, but what is the point of seeding between the rows if you are harrowing your stubble over anyway? I'm guessing your reasoning is different as to ours here in Australia.

Jason
Im trying to avoid having to harrow as much and still get through the straw by seeding between the rows. Along with all the other benefits it provides.
 

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Excuse my ignorance, but what is the point of seeding between the rows if you are harrowing your stubble over anyway? I'm guessing your reasoning is different as to ours here in Australia.

Jason

That was kind of my thinking also, seems to defeat the purpose in my mind. More distinct rows to follow if the stubble is left unharrowed, let your straw chopper do the rest. To the original topic, I think you will have success but I would maybe be concerned about using a twin wing openers between the rows on 10" spacing. Side band would allow for more room one way or another between last years stubble as far as plugging goes.
 

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Hey Jason, What kind of soil do you have? Does the 10" step badly? I consider us to do a good job in the fall and spring with trash management. How many degrees of an angle do you need to seed at an angle?
We have a clay loam, not really heavy but certainly not sandy. Not sure what you mean about the "10" step"? I don't like the 10" spacing with a Seedhawk, the shanks tend to throw too much dirt on the other furrows. Also when your SBR you have to be more accurate in staying between the rows, not as forgiving. We never seed at an angle.
 

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Do you guys find a yield increase by going inbetween rows?
I would say yes, but only in certain situations. If your able to seed between the rows I feel your getting the best placement. If you seed into 9" space stubble for example with a 12" machine your going to have shanks directly on the stubble & placement is very inconsistent. Now if you vertical til the entire field & leave very little stubble standing then I doubt it makes a difference.
 
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