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Discussion Starter #1
Replaced both rails last year one was cracked and broke. Now after 500 hrs the same side is cracked have been welding it to get done with small grains. Everything seems to be tight on the bushings and seems to run right. Machine is a 2003 2366 with 1800 eng hrs and 1400 sep hrs. Has anyone taken new ones and weld a plate on the side? Maybe there made to thin like alot of that IH makes?
Any thoughts would be appreciated thank you!
 

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Loewen (www.loewenmfg.com) has heavy duty rails, but since you replaced them already once thats an expensive option. Check your 6 sided shaker drive shaft for wear and the bearings on the shaft as well. Also, when you replaced the rails, did you make sure the same amount of washers that came out between the bushings and rails went back in?

you might have to get a book or a photocopy of one and do all the measurements in the back end of the combine. Its a bunch of work and you would think that after 30 years of amazing case international axial flow technology they would have come out with a decent shaker bushing system. I guess they did with the 8010 and just used New Holland's. I'm a little bitter as working at a case dealership I got to take a lot of back ends apart for exactly the same reason. But I sure am good at pressing bushings out and in!
 

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kirschenman is right make sure bushing depth is miked to the right specs, an the right number of washers are in place also case has a tool to time the shaker arms so the seive is square as it moves back an forth check brgs on pitman arms to good luck
 

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had similar problems a few years ago, keep cracking the rails and ect... after many hours to resovle, it ended up being the bushings... simple 2hr job that took a week to find
 

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one more thing i overlooked, does the 03 2388 have the cast iron shaker drive arm supports or the channel iron ones. thats a big upgrade too. I forget when they came in.
 

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Check your shaker arm bearings also if you havent already. the ones on the shaft that goes all the way across the machine that has the gears on it for the augers. We had a combine come in with the right side bearing out, all that was left was the bearing race. Broke the right sieve rail as well as the grain pan and bent up some tin work. Machine only had like 3-400 hours
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have grabbed the shaker arms and pulled on them and they seem tight, but I will replace all bushings. Should I replace the shoe sive bushings and should I replace the needel berings to? I did buy a set of rails from loewen, from sloen express. I bought the combine with 600 sep hrs and I never changed the bushings, and I'm sure the previous owner did'nt change them.

Thanks for all the info!!!

Sure is a big help!!!
 

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check the bearings on the hex shaft that drives the shaker and auger bed very close. If any doubt replace the two outside ones. Case changed suppliers on that bearing for awhile and had trouble with them, the part# you want is 87376564, make sure you get this one not the old number from your dealer.
 

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the needle bearings should be ok i think. the bushings are the biggest rail killer. Interesting about the new combine that had the bearing on the 6 sided shaft go out, i saw a demo unit with under 200 hours and the same thing happened, but we caught it before anything else went bad. just the race was left on that one too. made an awful racket, amazing no one figured it out!
 

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The problem is your chaffer rails are hitting the auger bed on the back stroke and the front housing on the forward stroke the shoe assy hits the tailings auger cover on the forward stroke and the rear frame assy on the back stroke. The cast bearing supports do not fix or help anything they add more problems that need to be taken care of also. The instructions for my kit tell you all of the contact points to look for and what to do to fix them, it also tells you how to install the bushings and get everything centered, thanks Gordon. 701-755-3326 cell 701-629-1469 email [email protected]
 

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Notice the DOG clutch is welded to the housing... weld the other half to housing aswell... with cast iron welding rods. check it every yr for cracking, ours has done 1000's hrs like this. we almost spat everything out the back of the machine 2 times... its a rotten job in the middle of harvest with the whole sieve box out.

Setting the sieve box for Square with machine. I honestly don't find that is a fix at all, i have tried to get it right. who says the i couldn't get an accurate measurment of the machine.

i also reinfoced the rear of the top arms where the bolts go thru sieve & clamp to arm.
Cut out a piece of rhs to fit over rear of top sieve, which then plugged holes in the original RHS of sieve, welded plates for the sensors & rubber... major job but payed off bigtime, no holes drilled. will try get a photo.





 

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Quote:The problem is your chaffer rails are hitting the auger bed on the back stroke and the front housing on the forward stroke the shoe assy hits the tailings auger cover on the forward stroke and the rear frame assy on the back stroke. The cast bearing supports do not fix or help anything they add more problems that need to be taken care of also. The instructions for my kit tell you all of the contact points to look for and what to do to fix them, it also tells you how to install the bushings and get everything centered, thanks Gordon. 701-755-3326 cell 701-629-1469 email [email protected]

What problems to the cast bearing supports "add"???
 

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The cast bearing supports added contact points - on the back stroke the chaffer drive arm hits the cast support / the two bottom mounting bolts for the cast supports (carriage bolts) have washers under the heads they must be removed / two screws on the chaffer rails must be turned around and the corner of the side support brace must be removed (the two screws and the brace corner hit the head of the carriage bolts) and on the right side there is a grease fitting mounting bracket bolted under the cast bearing support the is not allowing the support to bolt up flush. The chaffer rails will hit the corners of the auger bed harder with the cast supports because the side panels do not flex anymore (they flex because the rails hit the auger bed).
 

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Quote:The cast bearing supports added contact points - on the back stroke the chaffer drive arm hits the cast support / the two bottom mounting bolts for the cast supports (carriage bolts) have washers under the heads they must be removed / two screws on the chaffer rails must be turned around and the corner of the side support brace must be removed (the two screws and the brace corner hit the head of the carriage bolts) and on the right side there is a grease fitting mounting bracket bolted under the cast bearing support the is not allowing the support to bolt up flush. The chaffer rails will hit the corners of the auger bed harder with the cast supports because the side panels do not flex anymore (they flex because the rails hit the auger bed).

Wow, I did'nt have any of those problems when I installed my cast supports on my 1680. They went on with absolutely no clearence issues what so ever. Maybe I got an upgraded series or something. What is the grease fitting on the right side hooked to? Is it on a 21 and 23 series only? I cant find any where that chaffer drive arm hits the support. You can see in one of phillphy's pics that the arms are far from tight to the support. Maybe there was an upgrade to the supports configuration.?
 

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Never had those problems installing the cast supports, I think I did three last winter. And I've never seen evidence of the rails hitting auger bed except when the bushings are shot.
 

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Quote: Phillphy, is this a stiffener? How did it work out? What did you look for when you decided to make this?



Yeh mate it's a stiffener.. the (2388 Extreme) has a 4mm plate in the wall instead of the 3mm like 2188, 2388
the plates i put in are 3mm thick, think 50mm wide.

What to look for... well it really depends on how much abuse the sieves have had, because all the drive is pushing & pulling on the sides of the machine, if you have 3000hrs up i would keep an eye on it... i did this at about 4000hrs, but should have been done sooner. do both sides, & have to drill hole for bolt after plating.. can ad an extra bolt which i did, especially on the belt/drive (right hand side)

why case only put 3mm plate in there i do not know. & the pannel below that which is bent.. the bowties bolt to it.. they are known to crack aswell.
2388 with 1200 hrs on it has to have the welder attend to it. & it was well maintained.

Bowties (cast mounting on side) are well recomended, saves breaking the side of the header out & those stupid channel plates are too weak. they will not stop sieve cracking.. make sure nothing is hitting,
you can do visual while machine (rotor) is rolling to stop... listening for hitting.. flick seperator into gear... rev her up... the shut it all off incl motor, jump out & listen, just don't shove your finger in anywhere..
 
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