The Combine Forum banner
41 - 60 of 143 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
2,467 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Building a cnc machine that's 5' x 5'. A lot of work but hope to be able to mount either plasma for steel/stainless etc or a spindle for wood, aluminum, and possibly steel cutting.

Using mach3, turbocad, and mastercam, sheetcam, and Vectric.
Ahhh....from a homemade anvil to a CNC cutting machine... that's a quantum leap if there ever was one. Looking forward to your pics.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,002 Posts
For tap and dye work get spiral point taps. And a set of Lisile square tap sockets. You tap a hole with a small cordless impact quicker than you can drill the hole. For shop drill presses put a three phase 220 volt motor on it. Get an inverter rated motor. If you need a 1200 rpm motor its easy to come by. To run the press get a vfd. They can be sourced in 110 or 220 single phase input , and output 3 phase. That will give you a variable speed of at least 3 to 1 . Saves a lot of drill bits.
Spiral Point Taps Made in USA Standard Tool Co 1 4 20 High Speed Steel | eBay

For tough steel take a cement bit and sharpen like a steel bit.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
Has anyone built a nice electric over hydralic or air over hydralic small press, like a 50 ton or so? Where did you source your components? I am thinking on using a regular two way hyd cylinder and some kind of pump and foot control valve. Currently I have a 180 ton electric over hydralic press, but it's just to large for my next project. I'm going to be pressing out 1" pivot bushings on an air drill.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
Has anyone built a nice electric over hydralic or air over hydralic small press, like a 50 ton or so? Where did you source your components? I am thinking on using a regular two way hyd cylinder and some kind of pump and foot control valve. Currently I have a 180 ton electric over hydralic press, but it's just to large for my next project. I'm going to be pressing out 1" pivot bushings on an air drill.
X2
 

· Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
Haystack, that's a great idea. I've been thinking about fabricating a a bushing sized correctly on the end of an air hammer bit. I used the air hammer with a blunt tip to drive out the pivot pins, and that worked great.
I Am replacing dry bushings with new bearings. What do you think about rattling the new bearings into housing with a light finger on the trigger of the air hammer with corect sized bushing?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,672 Posts
I'm not sure what type of bearings you intend to use to replace the bushings. If they are a ball or roller style that will replace the bushing as well as a hollow pin and then only have a bolt through the bearing bore, I think you need to put force on the outside race only. You could likely even just walk it in with a tiny air hammer with a cut off flat ended punch by just circling on the outer race, as long as the seals don't jump out of the bearings and they only need to go in flush.

If you are using Torrington style bearings you likely need to machine a unit with a pilot to fit inside the bearing to hold the needles, with a flange that bumps the race, along with some extra grease to glue the needles in place while you reassemble things.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
This might be the crudest slide hammer you've ever seen, but it's incredibly handy for jobs where you would break a normal one. Works great for taking off the inside race of junked bearings and doubles as a pry bar when in use. I started with a broken U bolt that once held an IHC deeptiller spring and made the slide out of an old discer bushing which slides on some square tubing.
excellent slide hammer you have inspired me , but my version I think will have an inch of extra thread so I can use it in the opposite direction and screw on many different hooks and even bolts or weld on tags . just like a panel beaters , but on steriods:D
 

· Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
i'm not sure what type of bearings you intend to use to replace the bushings. If they are a ball or roller style that will replace the bushing as well as a hollow pin and then only have a bolt through the bearing bore, i think you need to put force on the outside race only. You could likely even just walk it in with a tiny air hammer with a cut off flat ended punch by just circling on the outer race, as long as the seals don't jump out of the bearings and they only need to go in flush.

If you are using torrington style bearings you likely need to machine a unit with a pilot to fit inside the bearing to hold the needles, with a flange that bumps the race, along with some extra grease to glue the needles in place while you reassemble things.

Yes it is Torrington style. I have a pilot that fits in the inside with a lip on the top to hit the outer edge. The new pins have a hole drilled in one end into the center to grease the bearing
 

· Registered
Joined
·
653 Posts
Here is my shop built press. Has two presses. 50 ton and 10 ton. Has 5hp electric motor running a vane hyd. pump. I don't use the little one but it plumbs in series with the big one so you can run both at the same time.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
653 Posts
Here we have a engine stand that I built out of an old Gleaner final drive. I can bolt it on and turn it over just like the $10K one from OTC. The frame is out of a scrapped Miller Rod Weeder. Final cost $100 from a local salvage yard.

Then I made a feeder house stand to remove feederhouses from combines. I also made a tool to go on a forklift to remove concaves.

Also there are my stingers I made to pick up heavy stuff.

I make all my own splitting stands you can kind of see them in the background of some pics.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
This is a shop built press that was put together some time ago using a HYd cylinder from a Euclid scraper from the near by coal mine. I haven't found anything around the farm I couldn't press out or bend with it. Thought you all would get a kick out of the size of it!
 

Attachments

41 - 60 of 143 Posts
Top