[AnviL]

Thanks, but you're correct in that it just "riveted" the thin wall tubing into the larger tubing it was sitting in. In this case both tubes are under the curling ice for my Crokincurl game board (basically I've converted the larger game like they are using at the Forks in Winnipeg to half a normal curling sheet and I've set an angle iron frame under the ice to hold the "pegs") so welding is not an option. Plan B was to thread the inside of the tubing with 7/8" bolt threads. I put a 5" bolt down into the tubing with a large washer on it to pry the tubing up with 2 pry bars. No dice. Plan C was to drill a 1" hole in a couple of 2x6's and use the thread to draw it up as I tightened the bolt. I used a 3/4" breaker bar with 3 ft of tubing on it and decided to quit before I broke the bolt off in there too. I tried drilling it out with a 1" bit, but the rough top of the broken tube kept catching the drill bit and shaking it loose even with a really good Jacobs chuck. Apparently the broken tubing is staying there until the ice melts in the spring so I dropped a broken bridge bolt down the center to hold things in place until I can fix it right.

Oh goodness.... sometimes there is no winning.... you have found yourself in a very specific situation worst case with broken bolts came down to drilling till the threads just start showing them picking them out with a dental pick.... you cant even do that. Without the aid of heat it seems your up the creek, as they say.

 

[whtbaron]

Yes, in hindsight I should maybe have threaded the tubes into the larger ones... at least then they would have to come up as they turned. Here's some pics of the culprit in the curling ice, and my attempts to remove it.

 

[whtbaron]

Those of you that have worked on Roosemaster pumps will probably recognize these 2 nasty little seals that are incredibly hard to get properly placed in the pump without rolling them if you don't have the right tool. Unfortunately the right tool was 2 hrs away when I needed it, so it was time to improvise.
The handle from an old carpet sweeper donated the necessary thin wall tubing, and a cheap pair of needle nose pliers were donated to the cause. The inside slot was cut before welding and the outside cut after welding to keep things in line. The pliers are offset to one side to allow the pump to slide on over the tubing while keeping the seals compressed.Everything is covered with a thin layer of gun grease before using to allow it to slip easily.

 

[whtbaron]

The thin wall tubing was smoothed with a fine grit drum in the Dremel after those pics were taken. You can't leave any slag or sharp edges or you risk ruining the seals, or worse yet, scoring the running surface inside the body of the pump.

 

[Haystack]

I had to put new crankshafts in our KX 450’s this spring after a series of catastrophic engine failures. This one being my own personal ride was giving me fits separating the cases off the press fit crankshaft.

I located a 1/4 plate from my junk used for pressing 2 stroke cranks apart years ago and drilled a hole or two to bolt it on to the mag cover bolt pattern on the case while a couple of other holes happened to line up with slots in a harmonic balancer puller to provide the force.

It worked good. Popped it right off, even pulled out the threads on the case bolt that’s hidden inside the oil pump of a Kawasaki 450. Whoops!

For AG stuff I’d recommend a 1/2 plate with a hole in the center for the shaft instead of a slot and the plate can be drilled to fit on any number of bolts on a large bolt pattern.

https://www.thecombineforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=153865&stc=1&d=1567562620

 

[Haystack]

This was one of the ugly messes. There weren’t many good parts left.

https://www.thecombineforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=153867&stc=1&d=1567563889

 

[whtbaron]

Ouch... think u got a bent rod too!

 

[kevlar]

That hose clamp looks to still be alright.

 

[whtbaron]

Well... it's too wet to combine, or even move in the field, so I'm back at it. Basically I wanted an adapter to attach a slide hammer (5/8" fine thread) to my Vice Grips (7/16 and 1/4" coarse thread) for pulling cotter keys, shims, etc. Used an extended 5/8" fine thread nut, some all thread and a bit off the end of a 5/8 fine thread bolt. Mini vice grips require a second 1/4" adapter.

 

[whtbaron]

When I was working on the 5020 I didn't have a transmission jack handy, and I needed to hold the 80 lb oil pan up while I aligned things to bolt it up, so I came up with this adapter for my floor jack. It was made out of scrap laying around the junk pile so it isn't pretty (as usual) but it clips on the front with the round pivot removed and holds on the back with 2 bolts easily removed with the impact. Worked like a charm ... the jack itself wasn't high enough to hold things in place.

 

[whtbaron]

I was looking at my engine hoist and thinking that it doesn't work in the height range I normally require for "taller" farm equipment. I decided a little growing spurt was in order so I made this extension to get it up around 6 ft. of lift.

 

[whtbaron]

Finished 2 more railroad anvils for xmas presents for my son and son in law....

 

[whtbaron]

When I started this thread back in 2012, I was talking about making a welding table with a slatted area for using the cutting torch. Well, with the cold weather this winter, I finally got it done. Started out with this chunk of 2" tool steel that I picked up at an auction sale. It's just under 3' x 4' and weighs around 600 lbs.

Plan A was to drill it for threaded holes to attach to the frame and make welding attachments, but I couldn't scratch it with new Cobalt or Zirconium Nitride bits. Plan B ( and several more in the key of F ) was to make an angle iron frame around it for attachments.

With the amount of weight involved, the castors were bolted on rather than welded in case I have to change them. Castors are used on one end, and solid pads on the other to keep it in place when I'm working. Moving it around required using my engine hoist during construction.

2.5" tubing was used in the frame so I have receivers for 2" tubing on each end as well as 2 upright receivers in the table. An old tool box was also incorporated into the build, drink holders and a little art work on the top, which will unfortunately disappear as I weld more.

 

[whtbaron]

The slats on the end extend out to pretty much double the length of the table, and the angle iron attachments bolted to the top enable me to hold project pieces in a 90 degree angle. There's a center post at one end to move it with the floor jack.

 

[qmark]

My favorite shop built shop item would be the hoist I built. I got tired of laying under vehicles. I also built a transmission jack to work with it. Used the hydraulic jack from the engine hoist I also built. The tranny jack won't be used very often.

 

[KWO]

My favorite shop built shop item would be the hoist I built. I got tired of laying under vehicles. I also built a transmission jack to work with it. Used the hydraulic jack from the engine hoist I also built. The tranny jack won't be used very often.

Without pictures, it didn't happen.

 

[whtbaron]

Didn't have a tranny jack handy when I pulled the oil pan off the 5020 last time (sucker is heavy to hold up and put the bolts back in) so I made an adapter that fit on my floor jack out of some scrap iron. Not pretty but it bolts on in seconds if I need it again.

 

[whtbaron]

Well... I'm back at it, so time to revive this old thread. Two things come to mind when I look at these pics... my shop is slowly getting messier and my projects keep getting bigger. I like to think of this as the best use for a CCIL pull type swather. It and an old harrowbar sprayer donated the metal I needed to build a gantry crane.

 

[whtbaron]

About 10 lbs of 7018 went into this build as well as a few wire wheels and grinder discs. Needed to add some JD yellow bracing to all that CCIL orange and green to add some strength...

 

[whtbaron]

The two ton chain hoist was an auction sale "bargain" that needed a complete overhaul. The carriage was constructed from some excess metal from an IHC cultivator wing. Pins for the carriage were constructed from 1 1/4" machine shafts.