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Thanks, but you're correct in that it just "riveted" the thin wall tubing into the larger tubing it was sitting in. In this case both tubes are under the curling ice for my Crokincurl game board (basically I've converted the larger game like they are using at the Forks in Winnipeg to half a normal curling sheet and I've set an angle iron frame under the ice to hold the "pegs") so welding is not an option. Plan B was to thread the inside of the tubing with 7/8" bolt threads. I put a 5" bolt down into the tubing with a large washer on it to pry the tubing up with 2 pry bars. No dice. Plan C was to drill a 1" hole in a couple of 2x6's and use the thread to draw it up as I tightened the bolt. I used a 3/4" breaker bar with 3 ft of tubing on it and decided to quit before I broke the bolt off in there too. I tried drilling it out with a 1" bit, but the rough top of the broken tube kept catching the drill bit and shaking it loose even with a really good Jacobs chuck. Apparently the broken tubing is staying there until the ice melts in the spring so I dropped a broken bridge bolt down the center to hold things in place until I can fix it right.
Oh goodness.... sometimes there is no winning.... you have found yourself in a very specific situation worst case with broken bolts came down to drilling till the threads just start showing them picking them out with a dental pick.... you cant even do that. Without the aid of heat it seems your up the creek, as they say.
 

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Discussion Starter #122 (Edited)
Yes, in hindsight I should maybe have threaded the tubes into the larger ones... at least then they would have to come up as they turned. Here's some pics of the culprit in the curling ice, and my attempts to remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter #123 (Edited)
Those of you that have worked on Roosemaster pumps will probably recognize these 2 nasty little seals that are incredibly hard to get properly placed in the pump without rolling them if you don't have the right tool. Unfortunately the right tool was 2 hrs away when I needed it, so it was time to improvise.
The handle from an old carpet sweeper donated the necessary thin wall tubing, and a cheap pair of needle nose pliers were donated to the cause. The inside slot was cut before welding and the outside cut after welding to keep things in line. The pliers are offset to one side to allow the pump to slide on over the tubing while keeping the seals compressed.Everything is covered with a thin layer of gun grease before using to allow it to slip easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
The thin wall tubing was smoothed with a fine grit drum in the Dremel after those pics were taken. You can't leave any slag or sharp edges or you risk ruining the seals, or worse yet, scoring the running surface inside the body of the pump.
 

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I had to put new crankshafts in our KX 450’s this spring after a series of catastrophic engine failures. This one being my own personal ride was giving me fits separating the cases off the press fit crankshaft.

I located a 1/4 plate from my junk used for pressing 2 stroke cranks apart years ago and drilled a hole or two to bolt it on to the mag cover bolt pattern on the case while a couple of other holes happened to line up with slots in a harmonic balancer puller to provide the force.

It worked good. Popped it right off, even pulled out the threads on the case bolt that’s hidden inside the oil pump of a Kawasaki 450. Whoops!

For AG stuff I’d recommend a 1/2 plate with a hole in the center for the shaft instead of a slot and the plate can be drilled to fit on any number of bolts on a large bolt pattern.

https://www.thecombineforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=153865&stc=1&d=1567562620
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Well... it's too wet to combine, or even move in the field, so I'm back at it. Basically I wanted an adapter to attach a slide hammer (5/8" fine thread) to my Vice Grips (7/16 and 1/4" coarse thread) for pulling cotter keys, shims, etc. Used an extended 5/8" fine thread nut, some all thread and a bit off the end of a 5/8 fine thread bolt. Mini vice grips require a second 1/4" adapter.
 

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Discussion Starter #130
When I was working on the 5020 I didn't have a transmission jack handy, and I needed to hold the 80 lb oil pan up while I aligned things to bolt it up, so I came up with this adapter for my floor jack. It was made out of scrap laying around the junk pile so it isn't pretty (as usual) but it clips on the front with the round pivot removed and holds on the back with 2 bolts easily removed with the impact. Worked like a charm ... the jack itself wasn't high enough to hold things in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #131
I was looking at my engine hoist and thinking that it doesn't work in the height range I normally require for "taller" farm equipment. I decided a little growing spurt was in order so I made this extension to get it up around 6 ft. of lift.
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