Has anyone tried sheeting up the concave under the rear beater
in a TR or CR to help improve the sample? I mainly strip annual and perennial ryegrasses which tend to chaff up easily in hot conditions even with lower rotor speeds.
Ours came with a 1/2 plate in it and we haven't had an issue. Some plate up the whole thing. I broke a chaffer because we had too much material coming out of the return and dropping onto the sieve from that beater, but its fixed this year. I doubt you would have a problem after you would plate it up.
Thanks Kirschenman, what crops are you thrashing? with ryegrasses and fescues I think that most, if not all the seed has already dropped through the rotors concaves befor getting to the discharge beater (does anyone have a view on this?). Best I get the welder out... thanks again K'man.
There are factory plates you can find for them too, if you don't like welding in confined spaces where the sparks can get into YOUR confined spaces! Probably even some at wreckers.
We just do hard red spring wheat, durum, peas, and flax. Someone else on this board said that if by the time the material is through the rotors and the grain isn't out, you're not meant to have it. They run the whole grate blocked off like you are going to do.
We have ran both plates for the last 2 years now. The 2 issues for having the plates are:
1. as mentioned above.
2. when running in very tough conditions/wet/weeds etc.. the material sometimes wouldn't get thrown far enough back to make it into the chopper so some was being spread by the chaff spreader.
We ran with no plates, first plate and both plates and really found insignificant difference in grain loss.
We had the hard threshing kit installed so the grain should have been thrashed out and it just needed to find the other side of the concave.
As far as crops we have put wheat, durum, barley, flax, oats, sunflowers, peas and canola through it. If I would have to pick 1 crop where I may take out the back plate it would be in heavy oats ie.. 100+ bu/ acre. You may pick up an extra kernel or 2.
In addition, if you'll look at your rear beater, you'll find, even if it's in good shape, that the leading corners are rounded. If you'll cap these with 1"X2"X1/8" angle iron (2" web leading down the face and 1" web trailing over the rear) you'll find that the square corners will move trash quite a bit more easily. Use angle irons which cover the full length of the beater fins and tack them substantially but don't weld them solid. Balance likely won't be a problem.
We received a "fan slow down kit" years ago from N.H which is an absolute necessity for the grass seed here, however no plates were mentioned then and crop varieties and conditions were more so ...easier then with less dry seasons that effect the thrashing side of things. As most know, the small tr's have a (bottom) third sieve,generally a 2-2.5mm for small seeds. We have tried removing it for more capacity and played with settings on frog mouths, fan & rotors but always ended up with a tank of horse feed
.There must be somebody running the larger tr's or cr's in grass seed,with no 3rd sieve, that somehow get a reasonable sample without feeding the ants to much?
Something else to try -- If you don't have a csacade chaffer (3 adjustments so you can close the front 20% or so, try wiring a piece of cardboard (about 10" wide and doubled over for strength) on top of the chaffer fingers where trash dumps directly down. This prevents spearing thru the front of the chaffer and should enable you to open the rest a little more widely. Wider openings prevent blowover from airspeed caused by venturi effect which occurs when the chaffer openings are narrowed. Also should eliminate heavy loading on the front of the bottom sieve allowing more opening there, also. Wind will be easier to control as well. It may sound a little crazy, but if you ever do a power shutdown you'll observe a mat of trash in the place where you've tied the cardboard. Also, the air from the fan isn't the bestquality at the front corners of the chaffer.
Some good tips there tj. Is there a cascade chaffer made for the small tr's?
On a full power shutdown I have noticed more trash on the outsides of the sieves (particularly the returns side.)I'll try the cardboard this harvest.
I'm not actually aware of anyone who makes a 3 stage chaffer, though I believe it would solve some problems.
If you're seeing loading to the outsides of the shoe, it may be that your concaves and likely the rear separator grates are becoming worn -- if they're not retarding the flow of material properly, MOG will mat and and roll up and rotor rotation (which is toward the sides of the machine) forces it thru the concaves (mainly) and grate openings as the pressure increases at the outer pinch points.
I have dropped the rotors out and replaced the spiket bearings which seem to get rough about every 300hrs just from the volume of crop the rotors have to digest. The concaves still seem in quite good shape (grass crops are fairly non abrasive, just bulky). Have replaced the bearing on the spinner drive side of rear beater twice in 1500hrs , (this one is non greasable). Should one be lowering the grate more?, it is 3/4 open .
Noticed a lot of packed dirt behind the long rasp bars that must be upsetting the rotors balance.
Concaves should be fairly square on the leading corners of the crossbars -- if you rub your hand from the trailing side to the leading side, you'll feel resistance against your skin -- if you rub the opposite direction you should encounter about the same resistance. If resistance is absent, check for radiusing on the leading corners -- acceptable wear radius I'd recommend would be no more than about 2mm, and wear will be worst toward the center of the machine.
Buildup under thre rotor bar mounts usually isn't much of a problem, because it's usually fairly evenly distributed under all mounts.
In my opinion, your grate settings are good as long as they're in good repair.
Forgot, though, to mention the rear strippers on the rotors -- they have rounded corners and will slip (sometimes badly) thru the crop unless there's a buildup of MOG to provide traction (the MOG is pushing itself at this point). To alleviate most of this, we'll weld 1/4" X 1 1/2" wear strips to the strippers (flush with the top edge) in order to cover the corners and present a square edge for feeding. If you're having rotor hesitation (thumping and bumping) this sometimes helps quite a bit.