Did you bump your calibration number?
Still set on 12 where it always has been. And I tried both extremes of calibration numbers and neither one can get it even closeDid you bump your calibration number?
The rest of the advice here wasn't very helpful, I don't have a mezzanine. I threw out the box long time ago. But I do have a d8 cat, and it just came back to the yard.The best place for a Sotera flow meter is under the track of a D8 Cat.
Sounds like a vise would be better, you‘d have better discretion at dialling the handle to the level of frustration you desire to take out.The best place for a Sotera flow meter is under the track of a D8 Cat.
You will be happy. Just make sure there are no air leaks on the chem suction side. That is the only way it can be out. I use clear suction hose so i can watch for air.Usually just throw out the Soteras and replace when they start acting up. Generally get about 3-5 years out of each but have to constantly monitor them because they start screwing up without notice. They were available for as low as $160 for the 850 a few years back on Amazon. I see now they are closer to $350. I splurged this time though and just ordered a OGFM40-RD gear meter from Nozzle Ninja. No worrying about calibrating and supposed to be deadly accurate. Little more than the Sotera though. Getting it mounted on a 3" venturi manifold which will just camlock into any into any 3" water line and will draw metered chem from a shuttle as you fill. No more messing with chem pumps or meters hopefully.
Ditto. I use air seeder hose. If there are ANY air bubbles the reading will be off (high). If there are none, the reading is dead on EVETY TIME. Flowmec oval gear meter.You will be happy. Just make sure there are no air leaks on the chem suction side. That is the only way it can be out. I use clear suction hose so i can watch for air.
Another solution is a tape measure and a sharpie. Divide the liters in the tote by the inches high the level is to get how many liters per inch, measure and put a mark where you need to draw down to for1 the laters required for the fill and draw down to there. WAY more accurate than unreliable meter. The only time this has challenges is when you get to the bottom where you can't see the chem through the base.The rest of the advice here wasn't very helpful, I don't have a mezzanine. I threw out the box long time ago. But I do have a d8 cat, and it just came back to the yard.
It seems to be pumping very consistently at four times what it reads. So I will do the math and keep using it, and check it by filling a jug every fill up to make sure it hasn't changed.
I dunno, Chem handlers are EXPENSIVE and are one more thing to rinse. Not sure how that would work with my seed grower. He puts 2 litres per acre of "relief", then boron, manganese, molly, growth regulator, and usually two herbicides (broadleaf and grass). I pull the 400 tires of "relief" 9n with the Venturi while I am putting the rest of the witches brew in through the chem-eductor. Would take all day and I would likely run out of room if I had to do all that one product at a time through a handler. Of course, this is just ONE customer and is not the norm (at least not for me) but I used a handler once and liked my simple system better. Of course, I am USED to my system and not used to using a handler and the VAST majority of guys use a handler. I have always marched to the beat of a different trumpet player anyways. The guys that use handlers really like them so that is what matters. Bottom line, if you are going to use a meter, use a GOOD one (which from what my research and experience suggests means an oval gear meter). Interestingly, the flowmeters on the sprayers (JD at least) are turbine type and deadly accurate. Turbine meters...not so much in my limited experience.Simpler to just use a chemhandler and read the numbers on that, than don’t have to second guess your meters or measurements. If your worried about speed you could plumb a couple cone tanks and hook on to suction side. I have a 3” Chembine and
But you rinse your sprayer's chem eductor down with every load, right? It's the same process for the chem handler. We added a spinning nozzle to the inside of our chem handler II, just like the chemhandler III has built in. I rinse the jugs a few times, then while it's sucking the chemical down I close the lid and turn on the spinning rinse. Just do that a few times after it's sucked empty, and that's all it takes, really, unless the chemical is stubborn and sticks to the walls a bit, then I use a hand wand to wash that down. But I do this basically for every load and it takes maybe 30 seconds and the chem handler is always clean enough for the next chemical. I've never had any residue problems. And like I said I'd be doing the same thing to the sprayer's chemical eductor anyway.Chem handlers are EXPENSIVE and are one more thing to rinse.