[smallfarmer]

Someone please help. I have a 1420 with grain rotor, smooth seperator bars, and keystock grates. I am having heck cutting beans this year and can't figure out why. When sun goes behind clouds for a few minutes the combine can tell. I am constantly getting that rumble in the back and have to go extremely slow (1-1.5mph) . When beans are dry I can run 3 to 4 mph. My vanes are set in mid position and are not movable because of aftermarket rotor cage. Why does this small amount of dampness slow me down so much and what can I do to help this?

 

[robmgrig]

It's the way axial flows are. I imagine the difference will me much more noticible in a small machine like a 1420. Since I don't think you can put an afx style front end on the rotor, which would be the best option, make sure your impellers have good square edges on them. This can make a huge difference. Since changing impellers is a winter job, maybe try speeding up the rotor to give it more inertia. High humidity may cause the beans to become encased when the sun goes behind the clouds

 

[farminflyboy]

rob isn't the 1420 the same rotor as a 1460?

 

[robmgrig]

I believe that the 20 has a smaller rotor than the 60. A 1440 and 1460 have the same size rotor at 24" I believe. A 1480 has a 30" rotor I believe. The way you make it sound is that you have a standard rotor which is not know for doing well in damp conditions. A specialty rotor would be better but I don't know if you can get one for a 20 or if you would want to spend the money. Perhaps a cheaper option would be to put a new front end on your rotor to convert to an afx style. There are several manufactures of these. I have an exceller kit from stewert steel on my 1660 specialty rotor and that was the single best modification that I ever made for soybeans. Again I don't know if you can get one for a 20 series rotor. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong about any of this

 

[wptrav]

I think if you put spiked separator bars on the back of the rotor might help a little. It should keep the material from wrapping and help move it out of the rotor area. Like to others commented, an AFX impeller on the front would help a bunch, but I am not sure they are available for the 20 inch rotor

 

[farmerson]

My 1460 is not that way i can run around 4-4.5 wether the sun is out or not it has the standard rotor and everything and i dont have no trouble. Im only pushing a 15' 1020 head right now because when i bought it pretty well sight unseen because my 820 was JUNK they told me it was a 20' but when we picked it up it was only a 15.

 

[midwest]

For combines with the standard rotor I always thought the book had the wrong rotor speed for soybeans. Try speeding your rotor up until you start splitting too many beans then slow it down a little and go.

 

[torque]

I recomend you run the rotor fast and tight (check the concave zero). The spiked seperator bars help. If it still has the strait rasp bars between the angled rasp bars, remove them. Buy some disrupters or weld in some short bars to the keystock grates between the spikes of the seperator bars to make disrupters. TORQUE

 

[disrupter]

We need to talk. My name is Don Estes, inventer of the Disrupter. You have the classic reason that THe Disrupters have been such a success. I am now a consultant for C M Welding Inc. located in Frankfort Indiana. I deal in rotor bars, concaves and all other wear parts on your combine. My wed page is (www.cmweldinginc.com./) and my phone is (765) 891-1722. Call me sometime. Thanks Donnie

 

[farmerson]

I'v been running rotor at 550-580 in beans and concaves set to where you can almost hear it ticking on the rotor at an idle.