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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My steiger st310 with an 855 cummins is leaking oil from somewhere around the front cover. Does anybody have any experience to where specifically the oil maybe coming from. It's not leaking fast but I'm going to have to replace the belts and the fan has blowed oil all over the front of the engine. The crankshaft pulley, cam shaft cap, injection pump pulley, and the hydraulic pump are the only thing that are in contact with oil internally so it could be leaking from one of those points. Any ideas?
 

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accessory drive seal under the p, main front seal, and the cam thrust block are the normal places, but sometimes it can be the cover to block assly,
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After degreasing and pressure washing the front of the engine, I restarted it and let it get hot and noticed it leaking behind the pulley set that drives the injection pump. I then shut the engine off and it seemed to run out a little faster for a little bit.
 

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Accessory drive pulley seal, quite common on them. They are fairly easy to replace, sometimes the front cover may crack there also but haven't seen one in a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Accessory drive pulley seal, quite common on them. They are fairly easy to replace, sometimes the front cover may crack there also but haven't seen one in a long time.
Does the bearing usually need replaced while putting in a new seal? Might you have the part # for the seal, Caseih or Napa? Preferably the latter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What style of puller works best to remove the accessory drive pulley? Looks as if the radiator fan, shroud and A/C compressor will have to be removed to get the pulley off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I removed the belts and radiator fan and when I put a 3/4" drive 1 15/16" socket and ratchet to loosen the pulley nut it rolled the engine over. I'm working by myself, so what's the best way to lock the engine, so I can loosen this nut?

I called Big Tractor Parts and they recommended getting the seal and sleeve from cummins, so that's the route I'm gonna take. I got to get this tractor going so I can use it on my "new to me" 9 bottom IH plow, for plowing in chicken litter after I harvest my soybeans.
 

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I imagine there is a way to hold an engine such as that, whatever I've done with an 855 didn't require such requirements ... now someone else may say no to this idea but as your Steiger is equipped with the standard transmission, if you need a bit more holding power beyond the compression pressures, put the main transmission in a high gear ( aux in gear etc ) to give the engine a mechanical "disadvantage" and for safety sake you can put blocks at the tires so the tractor won't go rolling off anywhere or over you if it moved by chance. Oh and confirm it is right hand thread as again anyone on here who has worked on the accessory drive will know right off or if you can visually see some thread yourself to know for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks NorthernFarmer, I'll put her in high gear and try it. Now here's the question. Are the threads on the accessory drive pulley shaft, right hand threads? Believe it or not it crossed my mind but at 6:00 in the afternoon its hard to get a hold of a professional.
 

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It's been a few years since I did one and haven't been near the manuals for a month. The nut is regular thread, can't remember how I held the engine, might have given the wrench a hit with a hammer to knock the nut loose, didn't remove the radiator and I think I may have used a crank pulley puller to pull it off, I'm sure there are a couple threaded holes in it for the puller.

I'll see if I can get a break and look it up, it's not a big job and there are no timing issues and such you need to worry about. The engines I did it on were 444XTs in cabover Internationals and I think an N14 in a Western Star.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's been a few years since I did one and haven't been near the manuals for a month. The nut is regular thread, can't remember how I held the engine, might have given the wrench a hit with a hammer to knock the nut loose, didn't remove the radiator and I think I may have used a crank pulley puller to pull it off, I'm sure there are a couple threaded holes in it for the puller.

I'll see if I can get a break and look it up, it's not a big job and there are no timing issues and such you need to worry about. The engines I did it on were 444XTs in cabover Internationals and I think an N14 in a Western Star.
I'd appreciate it.
 

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use an h bar puller, the nut is rh thread, locking it into a higher gear and blocks is a good way, there is only a shell type bearing in the housing, and it sees little wear, use the speedi sleeve and seal from cummins with the plastic seal guide and DO NOT oil or grease the seal as it is a special type that does not need lubrication. installing the pulley can be a *****, clean the inner bore with emery cloth real nice, heat the pulley in the oven to around 300f and install it with noting there is a lineup dowel to align, slam it as far as you can while using heat resistant gloves, and then install the washer and flanged nut to pull it home, i believe the torque is around 200 ft lbs. replaced a hundred or so of them, and it is a fairly reasonable job, but sometimes the fan and shroud are problematic and need to be removed...
 
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