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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It has 598 raba axles and the rear differential seal just started leaking pretty heavily this morning after making two rounds in the field. Trans. Is in neutral and the transfer case is still in gear. The drive line coming from the transfer case to the rear is tight, but the shaft coming out of the rear end and coming up to the telescoping point has a some play in the gear mesh and just a tiny bit up and down. What's could be the problem?
 

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I dont know anything about the Raba axles, but it in reverse and check which drive shaft is tight. Articulated steering will play funny tricks on you regarding which axle is under load when stopped. Especially if you have a diff lock in front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I dont know anything about the Raba axles, but it in reverse and check which drive shaft is tight. Articulated steering will play funny tricks on you regarding which axle is under load when stopped. Especially if you have a diff lock in front.
I'll check that tonite, I'm planting soybeans now and sure could use that tractor. Do you think that the best odds are that its just a bad seal?
 

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Assuming it has a similar breather setup to what ours had, the first thing to check before you put any more hours on the tractor is to take both the front and rear axle breathers off AND also the short stand pipes they screw onto and clean out all the crud from the pipe and the breather by scraping internally with a long small shaft blade screw driver and using solvent and air, also stick a wire or small screw driver into the pipe thread hole on top of the axle to be sure there is nothing built up in that area ether. The rear axle breather/stand pipe is famous for building up with dirt and oil mixed to the point it totally plugs itself off and then with no breathing ability whatsoever, a wheel seal is going to leak and probably be damaged and .... you get the picture. Now in saying that, air will take the path of least resistance and if that does happen to be the pinion seal, then that is where its going to leak. I found in dusty type field conditions we had ( we were not doing no til ), I took that rear breather/pipe off at least every couple of years if not every year. Just checking to see that the tin cover on the breather is free to move is not going to cut it in this situation, we found out the hard way and who would ever think of that ether !.

As to the driveline looseness, I may not be following you completely but if you do have some sideways looseness in the steady bearing assembly, taking that apart and doing a rebearing job on it is the only way that I know of to get it back into spec. Its so many years ago now when I did one but if I can do it I am sure you can as well ... if its getting loose that is. Mind you that has nothing to do with a pinion seal leaking but just pointing out its quite possible to repair without anything too fancy tool wise. The fact the driveline has the mechanics style Ujoints for dis-assembly makes life a lot easier !.
 

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Now that you ask I have to think myself, its ether on top of the square part of the main axle tube or its on the actual third member part of the diff housing itself. Since your tractor is a few years older then ours ( I believe ours was a 1983 and yes had the raba axles ) they maybe had changed the breather setup but one way or the other there has to be a breather just like any truck or pickup axle. On ours the stand pipe was not very large from what I recall, probably only an 1/8 pipe thread and definitely no larger then 1/4 pipe and approximately 4 inches tall with that little breather assembly screwed into the top of the stand pipe. Now yours may not have a stand pipe as an example ... but look over every square inch of the top of the axle and center housing as I would be shocked if you don't find one, dirt might be packed on covering yours. If instead you see a hose leading out from the housing ... follow that as yours could have that style for all I know but its got to have a breather ... somewhere !.
 

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I got my 270 home and figured I'd take a couple pics of the axles and the breather Charles is talking about.

My right front seal is leaking, but not too bad yet. Even if it were leaking bad, I would continue to use the tractor, just topping the gear lube each day until I was done with it.

I dont know which seal you are meaning, the wheel seal or the pinion seal? Either one, unless it is pouring lube out and the breather is cleaned, I would run it, keeping an eye on it. I dont like being without a tractor just because of a leak, so I figure the cost of the lube and the time topping it off is offset easy by having the tractor int he field, doing what I need.

See if these pics help and use them to explain which seal of yours is leaking.




 

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Thank you Doorknob, I had no way of taking a photo but that squared off portion of the third member with the mini stand pipe and breather is certainly the little gem, so insignificant but can cause oh so much dollars in damage/labor if a seal is replaced at a shop.

Just clean the shelf area and tube well before its removed to avoid dirt falling into the hole and I used a curved vise grip jaw to remove the pipe, then spin out the breather and it will be interesting to see what you find ... see if you can blow through it with your mouth initially and if you can't, you've found a problem !.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mine is the pinion seal. I haven't looked since you posted those photos, but I can tell you there is no breather on mine in that spot and I saw no lines with a breather attached. Thanks for those photos doorknob, I'll check again in the morning and get back with you.
 

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My 310 came with a short piece of hose attached to the top of the differentials with inline fuel filters attached for breather filtering. Seems to work, all the boxes on the tractor have those filter assemblies. Start to bother change the filters.
 

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Mine is the pinion seal. I haven't looked since you posted those photos, but I can tell you there is no breather on mine in that spot and I saw no lines with a breather attached. Thanks for those photos doorknob, I'll check again in the morning and get back with you.
Ok, I just re read the opening question and now you mention the pinion seal is the one that has gone.

If the yoke connected to the pinion shaft is the one that moves up and down a bit and has the lash slack, probably best not run it till you get more diagnosing. Since the breather is not there anymore, I hope it did not rot off and leave an open hole to the gears.:(
Check to see if someone just plugged the hole.

Pull the fill plug and have a look at the condition of the gear lube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The case dealer said they could order me a new seal for $360, now that seems a little steep to me, so can that seal be purchase through Napa auto parts?
 

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DoorKnob it looks as if your wheel seal is come out almost?? We have done 3-4 seals on Raba 598 s on my 9180 and cr1225 PITA but quite simple after first time you need a shop crane and the tools from big tractor parts to do it easily or correctly I guess forklift works in place of shop crane for lifting hub off or at worst case front end laoder if your careful
 

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The case dealer said they could order me a new seal for $360, now that seems a little steep to me, so can that seal be purchase through Napa auto parts?
99% sure it can be bought at napa or any truck repair shop. Probably they will cross it over to a CR seal or a National. But I think $36.00 should be closer to what they cost.:(
 

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DoorKnob it looks as if your wheel seal is come out almost?? We have done 3-4 seals on Raba 598 s on my 9180 and cr1225 PITA but quite simple after first time you need a shop crane and the tools from big tractor parts to do it easily or correctly I guess forklift works in place of shop crane for lifting hub off or at worst case front end laoder if your careful
I used my toyota forklift when replacing the wheel seal on the KP1360 with the S40 Eatons. It went well and the new seals are sure nice. No more worries about the seal surface on the axle housing.
 

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forklift would work slick. Big tractor parts sell the raba seals for around $200 for both roughly half what case ih dealers charge not sure if napa or anyone can find those big seals though I could be wrong
 

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forklift would work slick.
In the shop I use a "slightly modified" pallet jack, works great, much like a wheel dolly for truck and trailer wheels. It's a higher weight rated one, not all are created equal. There can be a crap load of weight if you're dealing with a large fluid filled tire complete with a cast wheel and then have the housing hanging off one end. I always remove any dual first. I found there was too much unwanted movement when I used to use my over head hoist, things swinging and such and hard to maintain the correct angle of the housing. Not a real fan of using loaders and such for that kind of work, lots of room for error and damage, but if one is careful it certainly can be done, especially if it's out in the field and a smooth operator at the controls;)
 

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Raba 598 seals

forklift would work slick. Big tractor parts sell the raba seals for around $200 for both roughly half what case ih dealers charge not sure if napa or anyone can find those big seals though I could be wrong
I've had 4 of these green or red Steigers and never had a pinion seal fail. Could be just a seal but if the seal starts leaking there is usually a reason. Either pressure from a plugged vent or pinion bearings getting loose. I would check out the reason before running it any more. It could get expensive real quick if the pinion is flopping around in there! Drop the oil and check for signs of shrapnel. Hopefully it is not serious. If you stop soon enough!!! Just a word on seals. I know yours is a pinion seal, but I had a wheel seal just start leaking out of the blue a few years ago and Case wanted to sell me a new update adapter ring and a different seal than original for ???? like $500 and $300 for the seal. You would have had to pull the hub and disassemble to press in the new adapter ring. I thought it has run this way for 30 years , if I just replace the seal (it was in bad shape from that pile of dirt that sits on top of the axel) which I was able to replace from HiTech Seals in Edmonton for I think $60 will be fine. It worked just fine without padding Case's pocket.
Doorknob was that your Steiger with the shields fastened on top of the hub? That is a smart idea. I fastened a strip of rubber belting to a strip of flat bar and clamped one on to each wheel seal area with a long gear clamp. Simple fix but it sure seems to keep the dirt from building up in the seal area. I have wondered if dirt can build under my shield but so far so good. Good luck with your pinion/diff and hope seeding is going well for all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
On Case IH's, My Shed page it lists two different pinion seals for the 598.
16-1585 is 83mm ID
1-6857 is 85mm ID
Which one do I have?
 

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Yes, that's my 1976 ST-270. I did not put the shields on it however. It originally came from eastern washington state. The folks over there came up with all kinds of little fixes for things.

I dont know what seal size would be in the 310. "normally", and that is not very reliable, but usually one would figure the larger size would be newer model, or larger model related. You may have to call Big Tractor for that question. But have all serial and model numbers that you can think of in front of you when you call. You still may end up buying both and returning the un-used one. But price Big Tractor before you buy and definitely see where napa or a truck shop is on it. Our napa is a multi store chain "sunset auto parts". They are very ag and logging friendly.

But Big tractor will be able to tell you what tools you'll need and what other parts for the pinion seal replacement, if any. Main thing is to ask them about pinion shaft bearing preload, and how to, and or if, the pinion yoke nut is used to set it.
If it uses shims, and the bearing are good, you might get by with a quick easy seal r&r using the same shim stack.

I know how frustrating it can be when you buy a tractor and end up working on it more than running it. You will have to be the one to make any decisions about keeping or selling it. But my 1360 sat for over a year before I could use it at all. And still it needs more shop time as another wheel seal is starting to leak and the engine has a coolant hose that has degraded and is leaking. It's frustrating, but then I see the dealer's truck in the field with a 2 year old stx or mx etc., and I dont feel so bad anymore.

But you're going to have to find out why there is not vent pipe and if it rotted off and allowed dirt to enter,......................well,..
 
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