The Combine Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,636 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This would be for next year but we would like to put a straight pipe on our combine it's just not loud enough


Anyway we are going to redo the intake system with a precleaner so we would not need suction from the muffler anymore.

Our biggest concern is the fact that the engine is smarter than we are. Is it not going to sense any back-pressure and not be able to run? Does the engine have to run with the muffler?

Thanks
-Dave
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,294 Posts
Do you want it louder in the cab? or louder when it drives by the truck? If you want it louder in the cab just rip some weather-stripping off and go deaf.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
Im curious about the loss in horsepower too, I have an ejector pipe in place of the muffler on my 9650 which is common rail 8.1. In the past it always seemed to have tons of power, not within the first few hundred yards into the pass, Im sure emissions BS in the programming wont allow full power until the engine is under sufficiant load for a period of time, bla bla bla, once you made a partial pass power would come on instantly, and rpms of the enginie would jump up 400 rpm or so and would stay that way until I shut the machine down or idled for a few minutes. Now with the straight pipe it never seems to get the full power blast that it used to have and it takes longer harder pass to get it to come on at all. Ive questioned a JD tech about it and he is checking other applications that use no mufflers but similar engine HP programming to see what triggers it.
ALmost seems like the computer reads EGT but there isnt a pyro probe anywhere, maybe boost pressure? I wouldnt think it would be reading coolant temp cause once its warmed up completley it pretty much stays there via thermostats and resets to low power once you let it idle a bit.
Anyone have ideas on what triggeres the HP to come on at this point?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
dave, i would think boost, and inlet air temp have something to do with it. would be cool if you could hook up a laptop to it and log it like you can a duramax. you would be able to tune it to whatevery ou wanted then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
I plan just that actually, My dealer is going to help me by hookin up his laptop during next harvest and take a snapshot of all the parameters before and after warm up/power increase. The more I think about it its probably a faulty water temp sender or something simple like that, the values they read at are minimal and any dip in voltage could default the power increase.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Hi There,
The straight pipe defintely reduces the fire occurrences,. Secondly, I have noticed a beter fuel economy, cannot be scoffed at. In Zambia we are paying about US2.20 per litre. I think a turbo affects the torque negatively, but these common rail engines have a lot of grunt and if need be the computer just adds more hp. What I have noticed id that when it is very dusty and due to the lay out of the rotary cleaner , radiator and intercooler the intercooler always get blocked first. In hot conditions the computer derates power when intake air temp is too high. So I reckon if you have a faulty sender for the air intake temp it might derate your power. Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
It is possible, Whats also wierd is my aftercooler is new this season, the older one was cracked at the tubing to tank connections severly, but made good power back then. Ill check out the sender and connections. Thanks zambe
Im always loosing prime with my common rail in that combine too but not with the same engine in my 8420, and had all the check valves changed out last year but this year same problem, two days and to fuel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Davedan, If it was an old 2 cycle Detroit, I'd say you have a faulty injector. They would let fuel bleed back to the tank. I know,,,,, totally different animal....

Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
been a while since I worked on one of those, in fact the last one I fixed was an old 2 cylinder 2 stroker, those terds changed their own oil, dont miss those days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
There are no sensors monitoring back pressure. Only boost. Getting rid of the muffler, I don't know if you would be able to see a difference in power, in the field. With field conditions changing through the field. If you want to know what happens. Take a snap shot "one with muffler and one with your new exhaust."of percent load, engine speed, boost pressure, percent fuel, intake temp. And then to read the difference between the two snap shots would be difficult.

How about wrapping the turbo with insulation, this would help with fire concerns. If your looking for more horse power or efficiency. Your charge air cooler is your best friend. Keep it clean. Has anyone measured the delta T's across the coolers? What air flow "cooling" are we seeing through the cooler. Anyway you can keep the air intake temp down will help.

If anyone gets a snap shot, please post the results. I would like to know what load percent you guys are running.

Do they have a barometric sensor?
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top