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I got to wondering the other day . I am about to do my annually hyd oil change on my sp sprayer.. wondering how many people run synthetic in their sp sprayers? the oil changes would coast... if a guy were to switch would there be a problem with all the residual oil ? just wondering if it were to make the wheel motors last long it would probable well worth it??
 

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im would stick to mfg recomendations
i have never had a wheel motor issues doing anual oil changes and anual oil tests is i do you would never be able to get all the oil out if you try rember you may have to bleed the hydro up and also wheel motors depending on make of sprayer

on my new gator i get canpro the dealer to chnge the filters on the hydro caz if done wrong
and oil not bleed up correctly you can blow a hydro in secounds
if they blow it as its under warantie they will cover it
 

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I just put synthetic 80-140 in the wheel hubs and use normal hyd oil. Cant buy too much synthetic anyways with these grain prices;)
 

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In my 4830, I go with JD recommendation of 85-140 synthetic in the hubs and 10-30 motor oil in the hydro and change annually (500-600 hours)
 

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I assume the reason that Deere recommends running 10w-30 in the hydro system is due to cost . It would be interesting to compare the hydro temps running synthetic hydraulic oil VS 10w - 30 engine oil . The one thing I cant comprehend is why a Hydro temp gauge is not available on machines such as high clearance sprayers or swathers . Especially when running in muddy ,heavy pulling ground . If anything kills a hydro system it is oil contamination and heat .
 

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My deere sprayer blows enough hoses that it gets a biannual hydro oil change every year... ;)
Otherwise just add rotella 10w30 as needed, and filter according to the book.

I run deere 85-140 synthetic in the hubs...those things get hot!
I hope grain prices go up so I can afford to change the hub oil next year...
 

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I was told by JD that motor oil was recommended because of the solution pump. If a seal were to leak and contaminate the hydro, motor oil can deal with water contamination better than hydro oil. The JD sprayers do have hydro temp. I don't recall where but it's there. In order to calibrate the solution pump properly you have to go it and ensue that the hydro oil is at full running temp. What RALLY grinds my gears is that we have a machine (JD sprayer) that is hydrostatically driven with hydrostatically driven solution pump and of course several hydraulic rams and NO LOW HYDRO OIL indicator???!!!. I've bitched to JD for 9 years about this and unless they put one on the new series sprayers, they have not addressed this issue. There's miles of hydraulic hose on these machines, most in places where a rupture can not be detected from the seat and NOTHING to let the operator that there is a problem before the machine starts to lose power and steering. A HUGE pet peeve of mine.
 

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I was told by JD that motor oil was recommended because of the solution pump. If a seal were to leak and contaminate the hydro, motor oil can deal with water contamination better than hydro oil. The JD sprayers do have hydro temp. I don't recall where but it's there. In order to calibrate the solution pump properly you have to go it and ensue that the hydro oil is at full running temp. What RALLY grinds my gears is that we have a machine (JD sprayer) that is hydrostatically driven with hydrostatically driven solution pump and of course several hydraulic rams and NO LOW HYDRO OIL indicator???!!!. I've bitched to JD for 9 years about this and unless they put one on the new series sprayers, they have not addressed this issue. There's miles of hydraulic hose on these machines, most in places where a rupture can not be detected from the seat and NOTHING to let the operator that there is a problem before the machine starts to lose power and steering. A HUGE pet peeve of mine.
Agreed. I have had one blow going down the road at 35 mph. Scary when strange noises and it starts to buck and steering becomes non responsive. In the field it's not too bad. Take it for what it is worth, but my dealer told me if you blow a hose and the machine stops moving there is no harm done to anything, just shut it off, fix hose, add oil and go. One mans opinion I guess. But I do t buy it completely...
 

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I have never blown a drive hose on a JD sprayer yet. Have blown maybe 3 or 4 little ones but it happened because they got wore through. The last time it happened I was going down the road and lost my steering. Glad I was just coming up to the end of our driveway and not going down a creak hill.
 

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Licenced to Kill , I have a lot to learn as we just ran our 4830 from this past June I definitely agree that a low oil level sensor is important . I blew a pressure line from the tractor to the boom valve block while spraying wheat this past fall .I caught a mist every now and then from the mirror that is behind the front axle .It turns out that everytime the auto boom height made an adjustment the blown line would let out a blast of oil luckily I had 4 passes left to finish and disabled the auto height . If anyone knows where a guy can bring up the hydro temp I would appreciate it . As far as a blown oil seal on the pump motor isn't there a gap so that if the oil seal fails it or if the solution pump seal fails they will weep but not cross contaminate either side .
 

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I don't recall where the oil temp is without going through the menu's but if you call Jason at Prairie coast in Grande Prairie, he will be able to guide you straight to it. I know what you mean by the solution pump, that's just what I was told. I wanted to be sure that I wasn't misunderstanding when I was told to use motor oil. What concerns me about the low oil level is that another custom operator here lost all the oil in a new 4920. The pump piled up and they wrote the machine off with something like 50 hours on it.
 

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Didn't fix it?
Fineato?
Expired?
As in junked it?
:eek:
That's what I was told by the guy that owned it. My neighbour bought a used Wilmar two years ago (I think it was 3-4 years old) and last year a wheel motor piled up (he got 1 season out of it) and it was also written off. He was told $85000 min repair and even then would never be right. The problem with these sprayers (there may be an exception but I'm not aware of it) they don't have filers on the return line so if a wheel motor or pump piles up, it contaminates the entire hydraulic system and it's pretty much impossible to get it clean again so a proper repair requires replacing the entire hydraulic system (pump, wheel motors, hoses ect) which, of course, is not practical so what happens is the failed part is replaced, the system flushed as best as possible and the machine gets traded or goes to auction and becomes the next guys problem.
 

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monitoring hydraulic system

If your hydraulic tank is vented to atmosphere and you have a bottom drain then you probably can find a low pressure switch/transducer to monitor oil level in your tank-its done all the time in heavy industry usually with a 0-2psi unit. Same for adding any filters you might want. anyone interested can pm me and I'll try to steer you in the right direction.
Using the motor oil for hydraulic medium isn't new, quite common back in the 60-70's

Steelman
 

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I do oil analysis as part of my job in mining...and have a bit of experience in this area.

First drama is when swapping oil types...when you drain the reservoir you only get 30-70% of the oil in the system...the rest being in pipes pumps etc...so then you have mixed oils..it can take 3 or 4 goes to get it right...Cat Dozers are a nightmare for this as an example...

Synthetic oil may not off the benefits if not used from new...main reason is when the oil your currently using leaves a tarnish or film on the surfaces of the hydraulic internals...synthetic will more than likely have issues getting the same surface lubricant properties as the old oil...so you can all of sudden have accelerated wear...unless your oil sampling you wont see this until something goes bang. So in engines its usually a no no to swap unless engine is on synthetic from new...and once again you may think its all looking fine but unless your oil sampling you have no way of telling.

Doing a gearbox you can drain is a different story ...especially a final drive type box that you can get 99% of the oil out...if its slow revving...you can often get a better result with gear oil swaps from normal to synthetic...we occasionally do this with pretty good success. However also flushing the box with engine oil also makes a huge difference..so if you drain some final drives run some engine oil through - the lower viscosity will pick up all the crap and float it out..then refill with gear oil...we do this a lot and has made a huge change in our condition of final drives and transfer cases etc.

Hope this helps

Ant
 

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why spend money for little or no added benefit. the oil from petrocanada is already a semisynthetic oil, and i have noted that seals last longer with conventional oils. unless you need the characteristics for extreme cold i would not waste my dollars on syn oil. i know there are a lot of so called benefits that salesmen expound, but is the protection and performance guaranteed? will they back it up? just my opinion, even tried it on a few occasions, and other than cold weather startability i was not thrilled with the gains..
 

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why spend money for little or no added benefit. the oil from petrocanada is already a semisynthetic oil, and i have noted that seals last longer with conventional oils. unless you need the characteristics for extreme cold i would not waste my dollars on syn oil. i know there are a lot of so called benefits that salesmen expound, but is the protection and performance guaranteed? will they back it up? just my opinion, even tried it on a few occasions, and other than cold weather startability i was not thrilled with the gains..
I agree where the hydro is concerned. However, Deere recommends synthetic in the planetaries and will void warranty if dino oil is used. The oil I use in the planetaries is petrocan and is full synthetic and, yes it's pricey but cheap compared to a planetary failure. I run petrocan synthetic in the diffs and trannies in all my trucks but dino in all engines.
 

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I was looking at the hyd. tank on JD Parts and I see that there is a round cover plate , Item # 13 . I am wondering if there is no blank port that is plugged part way down the tank ,what if a guy was to remove the plate ,drill a hole and weld a bushing into it where a low oil level sensor could be installed . I am sure a sensor and alarm could be sourced from Farmtronics . It might be something worth while looking into if it means saving burning up a hydro system due to Deeres Dumba$$ Brainiac engineers shortsightedness !
 

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I was looking at the hyd. tank on JD Parts and I see that there is a round cover plate , Item # 13 . I am wondering if there is no blank port that is plugged part way down the tank ,what if a guy was to remove the plate ,drill a hole and weld a bushing into it where a low oil level sensor could be installed . I am sure a sensor and alarm could be sourced from Farmtronics . It might be something worth while looking into if it means saving burning up a hydro system due to Deeres Dumba$$ Brainiac engineers shortsightedness !
am i reading this correct there is no low level alarm on a jd sprayer to say when the oil is low ?
 

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That's what I was told by the guy that owned it. My neighbour bought a used Wilmar two years ago (I think it was 3-4 years old) and last year a wheel motor piled up (he got 1 season out of it) and it was also written off. He was told $85000 min repair and even then would never be right. The problem with these sprayers (there may be an exception but I'm not aware of it) they don't have filers on the return line so if a wheel motor or pump piles up, it contaminates the entire hydraulic system and it's pretty much impossible to get it clean again so a proper repair requires replacing the entire hydraulic system (pump, wheel motors, hoses ect) which, of course, is not practical so what happens is the failed part is replaced, the system flushed as best as possible and the machine gets traded or goes to auction and becomes the next guys problem.
on the older gators that ran wheel motors if one piled up the dealer would flush the systm
then throw on a special set of filters to take out all crap they would bbe on like 8 hours then change um out for the normal one and good to go
i never had a motor go but people i know have and never had an issue after that
 
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