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Just loosen the jam nut underneath and rotate the knob to whatever position you like. Most common is with the neutral indexing lug at about one oclock, this puts the split shift positions into a comfortable place very similar to how a Fuller would be, very seldom we ever had a driver ask for it to be changed. I would use my thumb to shift down and my index finger or thumb to shift to high any time I drove them set up that way.
If you don't need the big boots up front, lose them, they ride and steer like crap and most normally have much shorter life span than a 11 or 12 inch. 425s are much worse than 385s.
There are stops that you adjust for when it has big boots, that will be part of why it has a large turning radius, and that is also effected by wheelbase. There are two different steering boxes and linkages used, depends on how it was speced from factory. Also if its been running the big boots, Mack has a weak point in their kingpin set up if run in really bad conditions, the thrust bearing on the bottom of the pin can fail often. All depends on how it was drove.
Another weak point on a Mack front end, is the front spring pins are straight not threaded, and if not greased very often will stop taking grease and seize.
If you don't need the big boots up front, lose them, they ride and steer like crap and most normally have much shorter life span than a 11 or 12 inch. 425s are much worse than 385s.
There are stops that you adjust for when it has big boots, that will be part of why it has a large turning radius, and that is also effected by wheelbase. There are two different steering boxes and linkages used, depends on how it was speced from factory. Also if its been running the big boots, Mack has a weak point in their kingpin set up if run in really bad conditions, the thrust bearing on the bottom of the pin can fail often. All depends on how it was drove.
Another weak point on a Mack front end, is the front spring pins are straight not threaded, and if not greased very often will stop taking grease and seize.