I have an 05 2377 and I think I may need to give it a few more hp this year. It will be running a new 30' draper in wheat and beans, the wheat looks plenty thick and since alot of it has now blown down so much straw will be going through the machine.
safest way is to take your pump off and take it to a good pump shop, make sure they know what they are doing and understand what you want and how you want it set. The most important adjustments are in the governor, more so than just turning up the fuel. I don't know if the later 23s had torque capsules or not, but it is an assembly that goes in the governor to make the torque curve like a tractor. Just make sure you have a spare rotor belt. Also a couple turns on the wastegate linkage lets it keep more boost too. Another thing to check is to make sure your aneroid diaphragm, wastegate actuator, and both air lines associated with each have no leaks. If anything leaks she won't get full fuel. Yes a pyro is a good idea for anything you are going to turn up. They make wireless units for racing yatchs. Then find a 9770 to run with and tell us the results. Good luck.
Take the boost line off going to the turbo and cap the hole in the T at the intake.
Turn the fuel screw in about 1/2 turn.
Set the max rpm,s about 25 over suggested max.
Will make a whole new machine out of it.
ayers660 have been in wheat yet? are you really underpowered? 2377 should easy handle a 30ft draper even in down stuff. the suggestion to turn up the high idle to more rpm is good go to about 2540, then adjust your load capsule so when throttle lever is locked at high idle the capsule is extended to the 2nd line (there are 2 lines). This is done by loosening the 2 bolts with a 10mm wrench and slightly move the linkage. this will make the pump on full load when you pull in a slug or heavy pull. rotor belt will be fine as long as your cam bearings turn on the heavy spring. I think you will have enough power without turning up the pump internally it should have the torque capsule anyway
I haven't cut any wheat this year yet but have cut wheat in the past with this machine with a 25' 1020 head. This year I went to a 30' draper and the wheat looks thick and alot of it is down, the machine has plenty of power but sometimes it could use more in tough conditions, especially early in the season when the straw is its toughest.
Just tighten the rod on the wastegate about 5 turns in(shorter), or cap the line off. Then turn the fuel screw in 1/2 of a turn(about 50hp), and set your wide open rpms at 2,550 (no load). That should make it a whole different machine. Worked great on our old 2188. One other thing keep a spare rotor belt close by and you might look into putting the hi tension spring (5-600lb)in the torque sensing unit if it doesn't have it already. Good luck.....
Big A i went to install that high tension spring and couldn't get the stupid retaining clip out. I had the compression tool on and cranked all the way down, but couldn't compress it enough to get the clip out. Any tips?
back off your compression tool and start over, first have your shives as narrow as possible on the belt and then put 2 heavy C-clamp sholding the shives together now start tightening your compression tool and the snap ring will loosen up very soon. this a short cut that works good only on the wide gapped torque sensing castings
Thank you for the help with the spring, it works great. Just finished up with wheat and i gotta say the dynomite diesel injectors made a whole new machine out of our 21. We are able to run atleast another hour on a tank of fuel and we are going alot faster with less (read no) slugging. You can hardly push enough into the feeder house slug this thing. We were cutting 4.5+ in 70-80bpa wheat and 6mph in 53bpa wheat, could have gone faster if the feeder house would have kept up, but it was bunching and causing the middle of the header to strip. This is with a 30' 1010. Serriously recommend getting the dynomite injectors.