The Combine Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
We took the back cover off of our fuel pump that was held on with 4 bolts that took a 10mm wrench and found a locknut that also took a 10mm wrench. we held the slotted screw and loosened the locknut and turned the screw in 1/2 turn. now it seem to smoke a lot when we engage the rotor and when we throttle up but doesn't seem to have any more power. There is another round locknut off to the side that is round with a slotted screw in it. What did we do wrong?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
975 Posts
If it smokes more than you turned the right one. The one you want is the big one in the middle. Don't change anything else. One other thing is to make sure your RPMs are about 2,500 at WOT with the separator engaged. Also Adjust the wastegate up tighter too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Here in west Australia we have been told to disconnect the waste gate (blank off the line) as the 2188, 2388 cannot produce enough boost to open it, in other words it shouldnt ever open. However dont do it on a 66 as they are not intercooled and the boost can get too high as there is no intercooler to cool down the air and therefore lower the pressure. We have done it to all of our 88s on a need to basis. As soon as it lost power that wasnt due to fuel or air filters ect we blocked the line off with great results. Over 8 years we have never had any engine trouble at all. Also our engines commonly run in well above 40 degrees C at max power. I hope you have some luck with it. Cheers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
We have a 1995 2188 that does not have a wastegate and the pump may also be different. Our pump has no "large" screw in the center. There are 2 screws on the bottom of the pump housing behind the rear cover. The screws are both locked with locknuts. One of the locknuts locks a screw that adjusts the travel of an arm that is not hooked up to any linkage. The other screw has a hex that take a 10mm wrench on the locknut and the screw itself has a slot. This is the one that we adjusted. There is a large diameter (about 3/4") threaded hole in a square block in the center of the back cover hole but there is no adjustment screw in it. Is it possible that there should be an adjustment screw in that hole but it has been taken out? Doesn't seem likely but who knows. Anyway we turned the small screw back to its original place and no noticeable difference in power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
Isn't the screw in question on the top of the pump, not the rear?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,195 Posts
you will see a cover on the back of the pump with a sticker on it(void warrenty) and it has two 0r four torx screws with a pin in the middle, remove the cover and turn in or out two turns(cannot remember what way i did) call a cummins dealer to find out for sure

i also disconected my wastegate and pluged it off, boost went from 20lbs to 25 spikeing to 30 on wot and full load, made the combine equal to a 8010 in capicity, but feeder house now became the weakspot, also a spare rotor belt would be handy

ran this combination over two years without a hitch on my 05 without issues
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
There is no possible way to make a class 5 machine "equal" to a class 8 in capacity by turning up the pump, or anything for that matter. I can't even make an argument b/c it's simply impossible. an 8010 will steam roll a 2188, 2388, 2588 jacked up or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
998 Posts
I agree traktorman. If you jack up an 88 it will just hang on longer than usual before it dies - not give it the capacity of an 8010. Capacity really is the amount of grain you can get up the clean grain elevator - after all that is where you measure your tonnage - not out the back. They differ in size for a start.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top