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Discussion Starter #1
I acquired a 4430 over the past summer.
Complete with the big end of a connecting rod sticking out the block...
My goal: to fix it AS CHEAP AS POSSIBLE!
Partly because I'm cheap
Partly because it will be more of a secondary tractor.
Partly because I want to conduct an experiment.

It's my winter project alongside the completion of my rat rod project.

So it begins.

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it never hit an oil gallery then make a cast patch or form a steel plate to block and bolt in, have done this back in the day.. If doing the cast repair use plastic steel to seal weld pits. Warm area real good before starting, recomend brass as it will stretch better than nirod. Did the bolts break or crank bad
 

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Discussion Starter #4
it never hit an oil gallery then make a cast patch or form a steel plate to block and bolt in, have done this back in the day.. If doing the cast repair use plastic steel to seal weld pits. Warm area real good before starting, recomend brass as it will stretch better than nirod. Did the bolts break or crank bad
Looks like I'm free of oil galleys. And I was thinking along the same lines as you for patching.... weld in a filler then a coat of JB weld...
If I were to try and braze it up... I think I would be worried about cracks with the amount heat inevitably thrown In....
With a low temp Arc weld therevwont be near the heat soak to worry about...
Looks to me like the big end bolts let go...
And I hoping the crank is "good enough" [part of the experiment]

I’ve got a jd 6600 side hill for sale if that helps.
Only way that will help is if it starts good in the cold and can be had for less than a head rebuild, a gasket set, a few bearings and a used con rod and piston.... delivered ?
But too keep options open, where is it located and how much do you want?
 

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That’s a fairly small hole. It looks like you could drill it out with a hole saw and insert a deep frost plug in there. I’ll bet your rod journal is ugly though. The rod beam likely struck it after the break, and in any case usually the bearing has spun and seized first which breaks the rod beam or a bolt. Not always though. I had a 4630 at one time that developed a come and go tapping cycle from one loose rod bolt. I found it before the tight one broke.
 

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That’s a fairly small hole. It looks like you could drill it out with a hole saw and insert a deep frost plug in there. I’ll bet your rod journal is ugly though. The rod beam likely struck it after the break, and in any case usually the bearing has spun and seized first which breaks the rod beam or a bolt. Not always though. I had a 4630 at one time that developed a come and go tapping cycle from one loose rod bolt. I found it before the tight one broke.
I like that frost plug idea. I'm also in agreement with your assessment of the crank. The chance of the crank being "OK" is pretty much nil. At the VERY least it will need to be turned.
 

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I like that frost plug idea. I'm also in agreement with your assessment of the crank. The chance of the crank being "OK" is pretty much nil. At the VERY least it will need to be turned.
ok idea but how would you get a center for the hole saw?
hopefully the throw hit the rod and not the bearing surface, if minor some patience emery cloth and plastigage and a 0.010 under bearing
 

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Looks like I'm free of oil galleys. And I was thinking along the same lines as you for patching.... weld in a filler then a coat of JB weld...
If I were to try and braze it up... I think I would be worried about cracks with the amount heat inevitably thrown In....
With a low temp Arc weld therevwont be near the heat soak to worry about...
Looks to me like the big end bolts let go...
And I hoping the crank is "good enough" [part of the experiment]


Only way that will help is if it starts good in the cold and can be had for less than a head rebuild, a gasket set, a few bearings and a used con rod and piston.... delivered ?
But too keep options open, where is it located and how much do you want?
I’m located in Allan, Sk. I think it would start as good as any other jd in the cold, which means lots of ether. The price will be good, I think, $1,500 obo. 4200 hrs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I never though of a frost plug......
Could make up some sort of exterior guide rather than a center guide...
I'll keep that in mind.
I do believe the rod cap bolts broke upon start up.. I suspect ether and WOT.
So I'm hopeful the crank is OK.
Even if it's a little nicked... it will get an empty cloth treatment... and even if it got a gouge I'll just de burr it and try... after all there is oil gallery ports in a crank... cant see how a dimple would be any different... so long as its smooth.

AND I will keep the sidehill combine in mind for parts if things really go sideways..

I'll pull the pan before long and then I should really know what I'm up against.
 

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Exterior guide. Take a small piece of flat bar or sheetmetal that will cover the hole. Use the hole saw to make a hole in the sheet. Center the sheetmetal hole over the hole in the block and find a way to attach it firmly. Redrill through exterior plate as a guide
 

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To make something to center a hole saw you could just form up a wooden plug and drive it into the hole in the block, then drill into it to make a pilot center. It looks like Anvils grandfather had all of the vintage woodworking tools needed that are just hanging on the wall over the bench.

My maternal grandfather was a steam engineer for farm tractors and later at a hospital. I had all of his good hand tools to drill a steam boiler from the inside and hot rivet a patch on there, if I could just remember what he told me. I think we’d have to locate some special powder so it wouldn’t leak.
 

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Neighbour bought a Chamberlain tractor with the JD 6/359 motor that had been welded correctly back together, IIRC it was a larger hole than that, same spot. Broke the crank after about four hours of work, hadn't been x-rayed. Dealer rebuilt it and never had any more problems.
 

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I over hauled a model A engine years ago. Somebody used a piece of leather
for a rod bearing. It was a running engine and not even any knocks. So, there's an
idea for you if the crank is bad. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My dad said the old timers would use a layer of pig skin in wooden bearing blocks on threshing machines..........
The hole in the block may be the least of my worries.........
It's never as simple as you hope with something you buy broken... ?

This was in the oil pan....
No sign of a complete bearing shell...
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Sleeve is broken both sides.....
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It had been making noise for a while apparently......
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